The Resurrection Of 0693R (an ongoing journal)
By Bryan Boyle

A chronological history of posts to the Yahoo lotuseuropa group.
Date: Thu Sep 7, 2006 1:35 pm
Subject: Re-Intro and looking for...

hey all...

well, just rejoined after a couple year hiatus...for those who don't know...I run the turboesprit list...and was the former owner (long time ago, in a state far away, of Peter's #444R...).

Anyway...I finally have a house again, with a garage just begging to have a type 54 or 65 covering the floor.

So...when considering the scope from basket case (in boxes) to garage queen (who never sees the sun), I'd like to throw out that I'm actively in the market for a europa to add to my collection of strange vehicles (which include a number of 60's and 70's Honda motorcycles, a 1969 Piper Cherokee, and a bunch of other projects to keep busy with...).

Not a Lotus virgin...I know these cars are getting long in the tooth and fewer and fewer in number, and am prepared for that.

So...if any of you know of where there is an S2 in about the middle of the range from junk to concours, and not obscenely priced (there was one I saw in the west...painted purple with a cross-flow gordini and leather that the owner is asking 37K for...), please feel free to contact me so we can talk at bdboyle at bdboyle d com.

Date: Wed Nov 1, 2006 8:02 am
Subject: Sent deposit... is over. Dropped a deposit in the mailbox to a fellow lister here for a 1969 titled car. So...after being 'Lotusless' since I sold my 86 Turbo a couple years ago...I hope to close the deal in the next couple weeks and bring her home to eastern PA.

(does that mean that the boxes of parts I acquired way back 25 years ago while I was redoing 444R, and have been schlepping around through various moves since then may actually have been not for naught?)

The car, according to the photos, and the assurances of the seller, is complete, but in need of TLC (aren't they all?), which I fully intend to treat her to.

Since I just finished hanging a fresh engine on my airplane, I now have some other tempramental mechanical device to relax with...:)

And, yes, I'm smiling...dug out my workshop manual, parts manual, and notebook of problems/solutions from 444R's resurrection...and happily started reacquiainting myself with the model...

Yeah, life is good. And the best thing is that the car is not far (well, a couple hours...) from here...:). Signed up a friend with an enclosed trailer to do the honors in a couple weeks...:)


Date: Tue Mar 20, 2007 1:04 pm
Subject: Well...

according to FedEx...the funds (and return shipping label for the title) for 693R is in the same town as the current soon-to-be-former owner. :)

And the transport company is primed to pick up. :) :)

So...they're forecasting 2 days once on the truck. If all goes the next week to 10 days perhaps?

And the pile of replacement stuph is getting higher on the workbench.

Moving the snap-on roll cab back from the airport this weekend...

Getting the garage ready. Durn, I wasn't this excited before my first wedding ceremony (guess because a Lotus will never break you heart, riiiiiiight...may tick you off...but never totally trash you...:))


Date: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:10 pm
Subject: Usual Suspects

Well....639R is getting picked up either Sunday or, my garage will have a new resident...

anyway...while I've dealt with Ray since '81, and trust his advice, among others, I am wondering out loud if the assembled wisdom of the list can point me in the direction of some of the more esoteric parts...

for instance...I know that the dash pad has to be replaced due to pretty good warping. I see that Banks has it...but the shipping is a bit daunting. Suggestions?

(being an aircraft mechanic in another life, I know about aircraft spruce for the hardware and stuff like heim joints and AN fittings and so forth (going to do all the fluid hoses in the compartment with aeroquip and firesleeve...for instance...properly mounted in adel clamps and the like...)).

The dash is in reasonable condition, so, I don't have to dig out my article I wrote in 81 for ReMarque on dash restoration...

I already have a carpet set on well as some other ash and trash.

I'm in for a tank from steve...but I do know that the fuel gauge is not working, likewise the tach. So, I guess when the tank comes out...the gauge, sender, and tach go off to Nisonger? Maybe one of those electronic level senders is a choice?

Anyway, just spitballing. Those who know me know that I am not one of the DPO types...I believe in doing thing right the first, I've been lurking and reading with interest for many years here...

And finally (FINALLY) have another of my First Love in automobiles on its way home to me....

(Can you tell I'm excited? I loved the Turbo...but didn't have the time to maintain it to my it was still an obscenely neat car...:))

thoughts? comments?

(btw, I plan on this being a rolling rebuild...going to try and not suffer the shipwright's disease...).


Date: Sun Mar 25, 2007 6:39 pm
Subject: 639R on its way to its new home...:)

Well...who ever heard of a car shipping co. picking up on a Sunday...well...they did...and sent an enclosed trailer (guess he's deadheading back from somewhere...since the quote I contracted for and put a deposit on was for an open rack trailer...and got a closed one...:))

So, it is on its way to me, even as we speak. Considering it's only one state (but a very long one...) should be here on Tuesday.

Anyway, have put the photos up online, both the initial ones Ron Zito sent, and the two that he shot as the car was loaded on the trailer.

Yeah, she needs some work, starting with the cracks in the nose...but, all in all, it's in better condition than my first one way back in 1981. And it does run...when I bought 444R, it did not even have an engine or transaxle in it...or seats...or...:) (Pete...I came across a pile of photos of your car that I took at various times...if you want I can scan them in and email down to you...).

Anyway... slide over to and to see the initial bunch...and offer commiserations....;)

(Jerry...feel free to grab whichever ones you don't have for your site...and you can change the official owner to me...since I do have the title in my name...:))

I'm pumped...


Date: Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:28 am
Subject: Arrived! made it here in record the call on monday night from driver who picked up sunday...but was in DC for, hied myself off back to PA after making excuses tuesday morning...:).


Some things I've noticed in my short inspection.

1. Exhaust is loose. At all joints...but, the all-important, unobtanium-based manifold clamp is there. Just needs to have the old rusty bolts cut off, new stainless AN hardware...and tighten down the muffler clamp holding the muffler on the downpipe. I may sandblast the outside and wrap it, don't know yet.

2. For some reason...only the upper left a-arm has been changed to adjustable, heim-jointed tubular ones. As part of the parts cache, I have original new ones. Puzzling.

3. I know the car has been hit in the front left nose. Repair was done poorly. Looking at the front, you can see where the repair 'sagged', giving the car a 'jowly' look. But, I have a 1/2 front clip...thinking, somewhere along the line, that I can take a female mold and re-cast the front. Or, just cut the part I need out of the clip and splice in. Have to think thru this.

4. Car sits about 1/2 inch lower on the driver side. Hmmmm....

5. Doors. Total overhaul, from the glass to the hinges. When open the rears move a good 1/2 to 1" I'm seeling myself to also having to rebush the body bobbins...but will cross that river styx when I get there.

6. Shifting is..ummmmm...vague? :) I know, it's a feature. But, it has the late S2 linkage, so, nothing that a fistfull of heim joints won't cure, along with judicious adjustment. BTDT a long time ago.

7. Clutch cable is Real Stiff. Think 17-year-old-boy at the beach looking at coeds...:) On its way from Ray...

8. Seats move, but have no bottom pans. Here's where years of practice shaping sheet metal for aircraft will come in handy...:)

9. Fuel lines run from the tank, tie-wrapped to cross member (right over the Muffler!) and up to the pump. Not Good. THAT will be changed in the next day to braided line, running as it should, mounted to body in proper adel clamps.

10. Transaxle output seals weeping. To be expected. Will check the knowledge base for guidance....

11. Rear bearings need changing. Noticable neg camber...I figured this would be on the list going in...:)

12. Windscreen is just held in with the old-style mastic sans trim. I can tell Ray is going to be making some more money from he has since ' trim, but will direct bond. If anyone has the original (yeah, right? trim, I have a bag of good chrome corner clips....

13. Rear frame mount bobbins are cracked. Checking the bottom of the rear's been crumpled there, but the repair from the outside is fine, so, will check the alignment of the frame, reset the bobbins and be done with this part of the exercise.

14. Engine compartment needs a good cleaning and repainting. Engine and transaxle need to be degunked, etc. May just pull the engine and bring it up to the hangar, where we have a solvent wash stand and do it there.

15. Chassis doubler plate under the pedals is bent downward....and the fibreglass in this area has been patched. Took quick measurements (thinking frame...sigh...) from center of Y in rear to corners of the T beam...were within 1/16 of an inch of each, will defer any further (what you don't know won't hurt you...:)) aggida in this area and just keep going.

16. Driver door window went down. But it's not cominig up...:( Ammeter shows discharge. Sigh.

17. Door glass frames loose in the door. Minimal weatherstripping, and the quarter light glass weatherstrip has shrunk. To Be Expected.

Now for the good stuff (besides it living in my garage...)

1. Dashboard is brand new. And I found, in the multiple boxen of extra stuff, the radio blanking plate in new condition. :) Took radio out of dash. Big gaping hole...but blanking plate grain matches. Will cut some Aluminum to mount plate to and put in dash...looks better...and, if I want tunes, will put in an XM Commander feeding an amp to bose cubes mounted under the dash.

2. You would not believe the Pile Of Stuff that was shipped with the car. I literally have (non-inclusive list, mind you...):
3. Panasport rims are brand new. But...I want to go back to either the steel wheels (and use those nice hub caps) or the TC alloys. So, I will be willing to horse trade... if you're close...:)

4. Did I say the dashboard is brand new?

So, the first day was spent in inventory, minor clean-up, starting up, blasting around the block a couple of times sans license plates, found out my next door neighbor is a retired auto body man, the guy 5 doors down is restoring a Vette, and one of the kids at the end of the block yelled "Nice Europa" (if only he knew...) as I whipped past.

So, my saga starts. Oh, yeah, the car is titled as a 71...but engine plate says 1970. Car was manufactured a couple months after, I'm in the same decade, at least...:)

Just as an aside...does anyone have a front chassis closure plate (the one underneath) or measurement of same? Also need to source the rubber plugs for the front of the t-section, as well as the fiber closure plates from the front radiator area to the front of the box, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated...:) Or, if anyone has them and wouldn't mind loaning them to me so I can fabricate...:))

Photos will be up tonight on my web site...they're in my phone right now...


Date: Thu Mar 29, 2007 9:47 am
Subject: Further 693R observations

Well...spent some quality time with her again last least the SO knows where I am from the sound of cussing...:)

1. Mark: thanks for the suggestion about going frame-off. I may go down that road...looking at some of the fibreglass damage, I'm going to disassemble the suspension and do some measurements. That frame that vintageforeignparts has(and the body? hey, the two of them together come out to about 1400...but the shipping would be a bear...:)) as a buy-it-now may be in my future...:(

2. Shift is vague. I guess I mentioned that. Well, thought, while most of the interior is out, I'd take a look why. Well...

2a. Car was built originally with the nylon ball/grommet for the shift mount. Somewhere along the line, it was modified by welding a big heim joint on one of the clamp plates and sticking the shift through it. Sigh. Further disassembly uncovered that the forward fork of the forward longitudinal tube is not square, but through wear, has been rounded off on the top and bottom edges. Further sigh. Guess the tube has to come out and somehow square the thing back up. Build up with weld and square off? Find one that is not as trashed? Weld 2 ears on the shift that clamp to the outside of the tube fork and capture it between the ears and the center stem? Oh, the choices...:)

2b. So, I guess I'm looking for the later TC-style shifter mount. I know it made a BIG difference in 444 when I installed, if anyone knows where one is (I am leery of dealing with Frank at SCW based on some experiences in the 80s, but will if I have to...), I'd be all ears right now...I'd rather deal with the folks on the list...:) (This stuff goes on all the time on turboesprit list...).

Got the seats out. Only the bottom pans are good examples of oxidation reactions...cut to size and bent up some stainless sheet stock. Will peel back the upholstery tonight and put them in. The seats are not in bad shape (I have to cut some fibreboard for the bottom and re-cover with some new foam...but the vinyl is fine...) and then re-color/vinyl dye the whole thing. Tracks are ok, btw. Just need cleaning and lubing.

Peeled back the lower back noticable cracking that I could find. Of course, I could spray some dye penetrant on it...:). Some apparent good news, at least. Don't have to go there (yet...I'm sure it will come about, right?).

One of the POs did not, as I found when I pulled the trashed console, attach the lower fascia bolts to the frame. Scuttle shake anyone? On the list (graduating from a clipboard to engineering notebook...).

Anyway, will be coming up with an inventory of parts that I have that may be available for barter/trade. I've heard from one gentleman about a couple of them...will get to shooting some photos and get them to so absorbed last night that I didn't realize it was dark when I finally walked away from it...and it was 11:30...

At this point, I know 693R did not lead a closeted, pampered existence. Oh well...but I don't think she's a candidate for scattering her pieces over the community, but, she does need some serious TLC.

Hope I'm not taking up too much bandwidth with a running commentary, especially since most of you know nothing about me...:)


Date: Fri Mar 30, 2007 9:18 am
Subject: 693R again

Stopped by RD and caught up with Ray...were both wondering what has transpired over the last 27 years since we started doing business...he's right on the way home (well, about a 20 mile detour, but a scenic route...)...

1. Picked up the later style bearing/clamping blocks for the shift lever. Of course, the original lever was so crudded up (is that a term?) that it wouldn't fit cleanly into the, before starting to teach class last night (I'm a part-time flight and ground instructor...), sandblasted the lever clean...and it just slid right in. Ray did not have the spacer that fits under the snap ring...but, it's a standard aircraft bushing size, so, a quick trip to the stock room served up a nice brass bushing that fit the bill. Looks a lot nicer, and I'm sure it will work better once I figure out the path to repair of the front logitudinal link...would be nice to get the cross- gate working better...:).

2. Also picked up a new clutch cable. The original one in the car is the original non-plastic-covered model. Lots of surface rust on the sheath...which may explain the stiffness of the clutch. It's an easy fix with lotus original parts, so, that counts for some points, right?

3. Ray's center console covers (mine crumbled into about 4 nice-sized pieces when I took it off...) are a lot nicer than the untrimmed ones from SCW (an untrimed example I got as part of the deal). Laid out the switch holes, shift and tunnel openings, measured twice, and will cut out this weekend. Why bother, with all the other stuff? Have to have somewhere to rest my arm.

Haven't delved deeper into the front end...I'm going to work on getting her safely (and moderately reliably) streetable (if not pretty...) so I can enjoy her a bit before pulling out the heavy tools and such. Figure that's for this winter, when I wouldn't be driving her anyway. A couple of fine listers contacted me with suggestions and offers of help, location of some spares I could be in the market for, and counsel, which I really appreciate...

Oh, yeah, packed up my 2 spare, but used, dual circuit master cylinders ( with attached reservoirs...) and am shipping them off to be resleeved/rebuilt, thanks to the great guidance at Jerry's site...figure shelf spares are always a good thing, and who knows, someone here may need them at some future good karma is always a plus...

So, after thinking about "process" (can you tell I am serving time in a company that boasts about ISO2001 and CMMI level 5 certification...durn, it's even invaded my avocation thinking...;)) on my hour commute...I think the path I'm going to take is: IOW, it's not scattershot...there will be valleys as well as peaks...but, it's the road you're on that is the point of the exercise...:) The time to get there is the time to get there...


Date: Sat Mar 31, 2007 10:18 pm
Subject: arrival photos posted.

on my own website...

And in other words...a couple steps forward....none back today.

1. removed driver seat...bottom pan rusted out pretty good. Actually, all the way. but, the backs and forward bottom are ok. So...cut out the old rusted section...and riveted in new metal. It will do for now...and is solid, so, my butt is not dragging on the floor...:)

2. picked up some 1/8 masonite to fix the bottom seat squab, which had suffered from being on the rusty bottom. Vinyl is in good shape (if dirty...), foam OK. So, cut the masonite to size, re-glued the foam to it...and attached the cover. Fit back in bottom...and it looks good (will get some shots up...)

3. received dash-mounted ignition switch...installed. Works (I like it better up on the dash...loose the steering lock...since I have a spare steering column sans the cut out for the lock that has good bushings...I will have an original column if someone wants to barter...complete with lock and ignition switch...:))

4. Tach wasn't working. Remembered seeing a Nisonger box in the pile O'parts I got with the car. Opened it up...there's another tach in, assumed the lotus position, pulled out the old one, put in the one in the box....started the car with the new ignition switch...and it works. :)

5. Wilst at the shop, milled out a spacer for the shift lever bearing to make sure it is nice and snug. It is. Reassembled shift lever on bearing...nice. Still trying to work out a way to overcome the wear on the front link so I can get the rotation of the link cross-gate.

Just as an it possible to remove the front shift longitudinal link without pulling the engine...maybe thru the front? Just wondering...any thoughts or suggestions? (I'm sure there are...;))

Anyway, a good day. Take some steps back...some forward...I am still assembling an inventory of parts that I may want to trade, if anyone is interested...the door seals, the rims have already been potentially spoken for, so...:) But, I know there is a big pile o'stuff to go thru...:)


Date: Fri Apr 6, 2007 9:09 pm
Subject: tires, etc.

Well...moving forward on many fronts with 693R.

1. pulled the bonnet...cracked flange, etc. Also stood proud of the surrounding body. Well, refibreglassed the flanges, rebuilt a seriously lacking passenger back side of the lid, and dug out about 1/2" of filler in the channel the bonnet sits in...which would explain why the lid sits proud, right? Not going to get too funky with this...but dug out most of the the bogus patch job on the front left side, and relaid in some chopped strand and resin. Will sand it out tomorrow...have heat lamps on it since it's february weather up here in PA on Easter weekend!

2. Started dying the seats; since I had re-metaled the bottom of the driver seat last weekend, I pulled the cantrail for the driver side, the seat, and the arm rest (all I've done so far...) shot them with SEM vinyl dye. They look a lot better than they did. I'm excited.

3. Fixed the heater cable; the PO had threaded the heater cable through the starter motor wiring...not good. Ongoing friction from the heater cable would eventually wear thru the wires' insulation...and zap. So, all is freed up now, and the heater cable properly secured and stood off on the radiator metal tube (as an A&P would...). Works better, less potential for Big Trouble in River City.

4. Picked up, from my SnapOn rep (who is also a flight student of mine...:)) a 1 1/8 tappet open end wrench, 1 1/8 crows foot, and a 1 1/9 socket...getting ready for the hinges. The tappet open end is about 1/8 thick...ideal for getting in between the body and the door. When I'm finished...I'll make it available after I'm's a lot better than hacking something else.

5. Still trying to figure out how to adjust the carburetor. It's a weber...if that means anything...doesn't idle when cold...stumbles...seems to be pretty new...I'd appreciate any online pointers if anyone is familiar with the weber replacement and how to set it up...I'm all runs like crap when stone cold, and idles about 1500 rpm when not.

So, I guess I am looking for guidance...or, I'll take the solex I have in the Pile o'parts and put that back on..:) At least I know someone who speaks Solex...and seems to be able to get overhaul parts...;)

6. Tires. Car right now has 185/70-13s on panasports. Thinking of going to brand lotus alloy rims and the TC tire sizes....well, needless to say, only the 185s are available in 70-13 size. Any guidance as to what's out there and available? Hey, even 155s would be totally accurate, right?

7. Measured trim height at the centerline of the wheels. There is NO consistency between fronts and back, or front to back. 4 different trim heights. Sigh. At least my rear shocks are adjustable spax. Just on the passenger side, the front is a whole 2" higher than the rear. Driver side difference is only 1.5". Oh, yeah, the worn out cheater slick tires were inflated to 32lbs. Thought the car rode a little rough...;)

Anyway, it was a good day...a whole bunch o'stuff accomplished (and a MO in the mail to steve...along with his shift bolt...)...comments welcome (will put photos up on my website as soon as I mail them to myself from my treo...).


Date: Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:16 am
Subject: hmmmmm....decisions, decisions... proceding apace working off the top of the list while adding things to the bottom of the list of Things To Do...

1. Finished the glass work on the bonnet trailing edge where it had cracked the edge flange off the top on one side, and was missing a big chunk out of the other side (it appears, from the POs description, that the hinge bolts had come out at some point and the hood flipped off the car...damaging it...). Sanded off the flaking paint on the inside, roughed up the fibreglass, laid in a 4" wide strip of chopped strand mat along the entire rear upper inside edge that had been pre-resined...worked the mat into the resin layer, then overlaid with another layer of resin. Clamped everything up nice and tight...and let it set over night (Saturday night...). Easter morning dawned...SO went off to the, took the clamps off...and it was nice and set. Orbital sander out...220 on the pad...and worked the seam and flange down nice and smooth. Bunch of pinholes and unevenness on the patch itself...mixed up some more resin, droppped chopped strand into it...laid it in, and let it set...that's better...Sanded it out last night, and it's smooth. Layer of glazing putty, and it's ready for fibreglass primer.

2. Finished digging out the 1/4" of bondo that some bodyman (? from the quality of the repairs...) had laid in the hood opening channel around the left side. The bonnet now sits pretty flush (well, a LOT better than it did...); took out the router bit for the dremmel, and cleaned out the botched repairs along that line. Again, mixed up some resin and chopped strand mat...and laid it into the opened up cracks. Note, these are temp repairs...still am figuring that I'm going to find a front section and cut off the trashed front section at some point...this is just to get her useable for the road this summer...:) Will sand out this afternoon after I'm parolled from here for the day...

3. Started digging into the source of the large crack around the front left directional blister...and the waviness of the body between the front blister and the nose badge. Sanded off the paint, and found the most dense, hard, and poorly applied filler (the stuff is the color of concrete and almost as dense) that was used to build the surface. Also peeled off the fibreglass patch that was underneath the hadn't even been bonded to the substrate. And what was underneath? 2 pieces of fibreglass, butted up against each other, with NO resin or backup layering to hold the thing together.

Sigh. So, I'm thinking at this juncture (having a front hood-line section forward from a TC in the yard shed...with some minor glass damage, but in one piece) of just fixing the TC nose section I have, removing the bumper, take out the die grinder, and cutting off the nose (not to spite my face..) outside of the directional blisters down to the seam under the front tray, and splicing in (properly!) a new nose. I could fix what's there, and not bother with it, but, I do like working with my hands (besides, it's good practice for doing the whole front...where there will be bigger joints, etc to deal with...). Bonus is that the TC section already has the holes drilled that would allow me to mount the brand new lotus spoiler I have as part of the deal...:)


4. Noticed that my throwout bearing is screaming. Email to dave bean on the advice of Ray, seeing as the renault part is forged from unobtanium. I understand that you send him your old bearing and carrier...he machines it out and puts in a new, current production part that works. Anyone gone down this route?

5. Removed old rusty, not sheathed clutch cable. Installed new OEM cable sheathed cable (it's a 74 prefixed part, but works just fine...about an inch longer, that's all). Used old attachment clips to keep it from sagging. Adjusted to specs...and feels better. I've a feeling, though, that when I pull the 336, cleaning out the pivot rod and re-lubing will free it up a bit better...

6. Installed re-dyed and repaired driver seat in the car (so I can back it in and out of the garage. Looks nice (probably the nicest part of the car right now...:)

7. Removed the tail lenses...the clear lens for the right backup light was coming loose. Nothing cracked or broken, just the 37 year old glue came loose. Little crazy glue fixed that. Replaced the stripped cross head screws with stainless 6-32x1.5" (and cleaned up the female threads with the proper tap...). Friend of mine who owns a jag repair shop has a couple of NOS chrome bases...and 2 lenses I'm going to put on the shelf...left them in my hanger or me...:)

Anyway...long post...hope no one is bored yet. Plan for today is to stop by RD to pick up yet some more needed parts, get home, set up the carb per some docs I found online about the 32/36 carb, and see if I can get a decent idle out of her.

Had a discussion offline with a fellow lister regarding tires...and rims, and a thorough search of Jerry's KB has me in the direction of 175-70s all replace the cheater slicks she's currently sitting on.

Any comments always welcome.


Date: Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:13 pm
Subject: New Work Photos online

well...took some quick shots of some of the work accomplished in the past couple days, couple shots of the bogus previous repair, and one of the redone driver seat and pile o'parts (well, not a BIG pile) that I have picked up from Ray the 04-10-update folder at

(you would not believe how much original vinyl shrinks...good thing is that it will stretch if you judiciously run hot air from a heat gun on low over it while stretching it over the plus is that this car has ALL of the original interior, so, except for a few scuffs, which add character, it's just a matter of cleaning, re-gluing where needed, and replacing any of the fibreboard that is warped or delaminating, and redying the vinyl when all done).

At least the SO knows where I am...either in the garage or at the airport. :)

(next...besides the carb? that long pole in the part picture is an early S2 front link. I have a couple new shift going to try and engineer up a more robust pivot method...using hardened AN hardware and a different pivot mechanism...going to build the front pivot...and then cut and splice onto the existing front rod. Just FYI, the OD of the rod is 1")


Date: Thu Apr 12, 2007 11:19 am
Subject: Well...hell....might as well

Further investigation last night...

1. Took bumper off. Whole front end is really hosed; I am surprised it's still hanging on the car...:) The bumper was hiding a top/bottom half separation along the joint behind the bumper. Nasty.

2. Got out the jack and stands...lifted the front end...and got up into the front cross member area. A lot worse than I thought...the bottom of the cross beam has a BIG crack...besides the displacement of the front upper left. The reason for the hole cut into the body at the front upper left is that the displacement was so great that the big honking lock bolt had pushed into the body shell. Ick. Needless to say, the ripples across the front are disconcerting, also...

3. Further crawling under her brought up the fact that the closure plate that is used as a doubler for the pedal box was about 50% cracked thru also. To me, this makes the car unuseable/unsafe. I'd hate to think that I needed to get on the brakes and the pedals/plate/body would crack in a big noise (followed closely by the sound of the nose crumpling yet again, this time on my watch...).

4. The pedal box itself in the body is open to the ground by a lateral split of about 3/4" and covered by a stainless plate bridging the gap.

The front end is a pile of work that I'm not too sure can be put right without massive expenditure. Looks like it took a good shunt, was patched together to get it back on the road. At least the hoods and doors are ok...:)

So...options, options. (at least the engine runs, tranny is quiet, and there's lots of interior parts that are in good shape...and there will be lots of pieces to restore/etc during the summer...;)

1. Body has to come off. This is a given. There are just too many non-acceptable patches on it to do in situ. Now...the question is whether it is worth spending the $$$ (in time, which is worth something...) to rectify what was poorly repaired in the first place (based on the extent of the cloth overlay all over the front...I'm inclined to offer the shell to someone needing a useable back end), or just find a straight, non-mostly-molested shell and do a 2-into-one project.

2. Front of the frame is gone. Rebuild? I know brent has one that has been gone over, dipped, exoxy painted, new brake lines, etc. Not a bad price, either, even taking into account the shipping charges from the west coast. From what I can see, the center and Y on mine are are ok. Offer as a donor for some other car that has a damaged rear end?

3. Part her out. Now, that would be sad. One less Europa? I'm not willing to concede defeat. I've waited since I foolishly traded in Pete's444R on a 74 Elite to have another Europa.

A lot more than I bargained for. But, I'm resigned to having to start from a keel and build a ship from here...:) Guess it's time to start collecting baggies for all the bits and pieces that are going to come off.

Good thing is that my dream of actually restoring a car from the first bolt may be coming true...:)

(I'm actually ok with this...even considering the amount of work I'm facing. Sometimes you have to go right back to first principles to get to where you want to be...but, in the end, I know it will be done right...will never recoup the final cost, but that's not the point...)

693R (in self-destruct mode...)

Date: Sat Apr 14, 2007 9:43 pm
Subject: Deconstruction continued

Except for the panel...the interior is out...down to the fibreglass.


Hoods are off. Going to remove the front and rear windows tomorrow (should be a nice rainy-day project) as well as starting the removal of the gauges, panel, and wiring harness. Have a, the doors will be coming in short order.

That will free up the body to put her up on stands and start pulling the suspension. :)

After that (most of the stuff will be disconnected by then, I think...),I will commence removing the bolts to drop the frame.

Anyone want a decent a-pillar back frame and body? Reasonable offers entertained...;) Will be available by the middle of next month...

(nothing will be on the body that wasn't there when it popped out of the mold...:))

Have filled up a few baggies...quite a few. However, will be replacing all bolts, screws, etc along the

Anyway, a full rich day...

Date: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:27 pm
Subject: Ongoing...

Not much today..had to actually spend time at my Real Job.

1. disconnected and tagged most of the wiring in the engine room and nose. There is some dodgy wiring up front (the cabin fan, for some reason, didn't work...and I see that there are some melted cables on the power feed to the radiator fan relay. Will pull back the wrap to see how far back the wiring is dodgy..and visit my new friend at British Wiring to pick up the proper gauge/size/color to replace. Note to self: contact fellow lister who has printed out the post-50-year-old sized wiring chart to see if he has one available for the S2 federal...the ones I have, which I used to be able to read, seem to have shrunk a bit in the last few years...must be the humidity...:)

2. Removed all front lights, blister lights, side markers, polished the chrome on all of them, and put them in bubble wrap.

3. Removed boot cover. Hmmmmm...crack in the leading edge. Put aside to fix and reglass. Removed the hinges, scraped off (with my fingernail) the overspray and polished up nicely. No pitting. Just real dirty...and dull.

4. Received photos of body and frame. Put in web site photo album. (y'all can take a look if your want...:)).

5. Removed shoulder belts (They just unscrew from bonded fitting in firewall. Figured that would be it...and it was.

6. Removed shift lever, bearing plate, and nylon bushing. Am working on a different pivot arrangement...going to spend some time at a lathe turning down hardened stock...will try and come up with drawings...

Going to bite the bullet when it comes to removing the under-car stuff. Will just leave body on frame...since I'm offering it to whomever, will cut down the amount of space I need to set aside in the yard until someone takes it. Will work around the inconvenience (you want inconvenience? Try working on some airplanes out there...:)). Not much other than that today. Making good progress in pulling it apart...started cutting the windshield mastic (the old solbit stuff....), but realize that I have to pick up some suction cups so that I can have a helper apply light 'pull' on it as I cut the mastic (and ensure the glass doesn't come out unattended...).

I know it's going to go back together a lot slower than it comes apart...which seems to be the normal tendency of a Lotus (and I can say that...this is my 6th...:))

693R (Ever lighter and more basic...:))

Date: Tue Apr 17, 2007 9:43 pm
Subject: looking for....

Does anyone have an emergency brake handle...the white handle fell apart in my hand while taking the post have lots of spare stuff to trade...:)


have some updated photos on my web site...under today's date...with better shots of the damage. She's up on stands, the fluid draining is coming up, and then can disassemble the suspension and pull the engine. I figure a good 2 days work, and she'll be fully stripped.

(the pile of parts is getting deeper in the garage, basement, yard shed....I'm going to have a lot of fun refurbishing stuff this summer...:))

Date: Fri Apr 20, 2007 9:35 am
Subject: Wiring harness proceeds apace...and the car is lighter by about 10 lbs with the removal of the wiring harness. Interesting.

Plus: any of the (D)POs did not hack the thing. Pretty much as the gnomes of the Prince of Darkness strug it together. THAT makes it easier to work with.

Minus: there are a few wires that have, how shall I say, exceeded their working temps by a few degrees. But surprisingly few (the solid green input to the radiator fan relay being one notable point...); I'm sure if I unwrap it, I'm bound to find others, but, for now, I'll leave it coiled up in a box for later attention.

Needless to say, it will be gone over. While I know I can handle the gross mechanical stuff (with assistance as needed...), I'm not afeared of wiring (building tv/radio stations and running an avionics shop for a few years quickly eliminates that particular bugaboo...:)).

Got the rear shocks unattached from the upper crossbar; the drums are supported on a couple of 4x4 blocks to prevent excess droop. I'm going to punch out the roll pins, drain the brake system, and remove the trailing arms and lower links this afternoon. Picked up the 3' breaker bar from the airport last night, so, I can get the 11/16" nuts off the lower rear upright. May need it to pursuade the hub nut, too...but will put a runout gauge on it to see if I should plan to open up the rear hub and the horrorshow therein (I remember having to cut off the hubs on 444r back in 84...which necessitated new stubs and hubs along with the bearings and spacers..ugly...).

Still to be done:

1. Front suspension. Any suggestions on separating the steering link from the rack? I've thought of loosening the nut through the steering arm most of the way and whacking it with a brass hammer. Pickle fork? Just unbolt the steering arms and buy some new ones...:)? The rack is a bit noisy...thinking of just leaving it in the carcass and sourcing a rebuilt...but need to get the lower steering column off. Bolt's loose, so, have to pursuade the joint open a bit so I can get it off...have it soaking in mouse milk, so...we'll tackle that this afternooon, too...

2. Cooling system. The KB seems to indicate open up the heat valve, take off the swirl pot cap, and pull the lower rad hose at the box section. Figure a 3 or 4 gallon basin will capture it...there's a plug in the engine, I assume for what's left in the block? Remove radiator and stone shield...

3. remove the MC (which will be cleaned out and examined...) after draining the fluid.

4. Pull the power unit. Got the exhaust system off, carb, starter, etc. I know you don't lift by the manifold (the breaker yard I bought the engine that's in pete's car from did that to pull the engine out of the R16 and I ended up doing a head gasket and seal job almost immediately...). OK...I see there was a wonderful tool that the factory called out...yeah, right, 37 years later. How about nylon straps under the engine and trans on a cherry picker? Thoughts?

5. Borrowed a Sawzall. Hinge pins, here I come. More power. Noise, destruction, pieces falling is good...;)

6. Pop the windshield out. Have the big ugly suction cups to move it...and noticed that there are a couple of cup hooks that the PO of the house had screwed into the cross beam in the garage...going to use them to suspend the windshield as I cut it out of the solbit/gunk/mastic/? that's holding it in. Don't want it to go anywhere...

At this point, there won't be much left in the carcass. So...I'm planning on lowering it onto a couple furniture dollies, bolting it to the dollies thru the seat rail holes...and offering it as a BO to anyone who wants to come pick it up...? It will be good for parts only, title or VIN plates...

(also found additional fibreglass damage the dead space under where the right fuel tank would mount. 12" about 1/4"...the body, from the a pillar back, is pretty sound, even's just the front that would have to be cut off...:) Will also have an empty fuel tank...but no cap or filler pipe...pick up only...or, Joe's pick-a-part yard will have a very strange occupant...:) Just don't have the space to store her (I've arranged for the new frame/body to end up at my friend's hangar (where he has kindly offered a corner of the hangar to stage the rebuild...he's a foreign car repair shop owner, specializing in Jags/volvo/MBs, so He understands the illness...:))

There's less to take out now than is already removed, so, I'm on the downstroke of the job.

I know it won't go back together as quickly...but, that's ok. Each piece will get attended to, so, the end result will be, hopefully, worthy of your attention at a LOG sometime in the future...:)

693R (I can see the end of the destruction from here...)

Date: Fri Apr 20, 2007 10:38 pm
Subject: does anyone know where...

one can obtain the various metal plates (the one in the engine room, the one on the driver door, the vin tag (I know...but mine is badly boogered up...) and the one in the bonnet? IIRC, there was some bloke in the UK that was selling the one for the bonnet, but, I was wondering if anyone knew if any of the others (unless there is some legal reason why not...) were being re-pop'd...

Dash is out. Icky wiring behind. Sigh. Some real cleanup going to have to go on. But...and this is a big but, picked up an oversized piece of plywood this evening...dragged it down the basement...going to clamp the thing up vertically, remove the wrap, and have at it. Most certainly going to relay the headlamp circuit, the blower, and the radiator fan.

Someone was asking (don't recall whether or not it was recently or in the KB (which I am reading almost constantly...) about the extra 2 wires in the door bundle...and why they're there...they're speaker wires. They end up under the small gauges. Lots of US cars did not come here with radios installed due to the different bands between the continent and the radios were installed at the dealer. But, obviously, a lot of dealers did not know the wires were already in the loom, and ran their own.

(for a while, the cars were delivered here in primer due to a strike at the, according to someone I was acquainted with who was the principal at Manhattan Lotus, owners were able to pick any color they wanted for their car before Manhattan would deliver, there are a run of cars out there that if you contact the factory, no color is listed on the build sheet...)

Lusting after other things to cut apart with the sawzall...:) But, struggling with figuring out how to get the door bushings out. My pins are SOLIDLY rusted in. Was thinking of just grinding the head of the bushing off. This has to be the worst design (or a piece of brilliance...I'll let you know...) I've ever seen. And that's saying something.

693R (sans side weather protection and down to the cooling system, brakes/suspension, and engine and it will be stripped. Pile o'boxes in basement growing as we speak...)

Date: Wed Apr 22, 2007
Subject: Cleanup Photos

4/22/07 Cleanup Photos.

Date: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:12 am
Subject: Public Thanks to Bruce and...

Before I start, a big thanks for Bruce for the EXCELLENT wiring diagram. Wow. I can read it (albeit with the bifocals...:)). I can understand it...and a cursory glance at my own wiring confirms that there are some similarities between what I currently have and what the chart says should be there...:) Bruce, thanks!

Well...almost finished with the deconstruction of 693R. Almost...

1. Front suspension is all the way off (well, except for the displaced upper left front...which I am just going to sawzall (gotta love it..) apart. It's just too rusted to the heim joint sleeves a DPO put in when he used the adjustable a-arms to correct for the tweaked frame. That's ok; I'm not planning on using either the adjustable a-arms or koni shocks of unknown parentage.

2. Brake MC is out, with the bundy pipe to the junctions. Reuse (after cleaning up) is most certainly on the agenda, so, it seemed propitious to save what I can. MC is not leaking, but, the reservoir will need to be cleaned out and fresh fluid (of course) run thru the cylinder to flush out whatever is in there.

3. Brake calipers have been disassembled, old seals removed (including the quad ring between the halves), pistons are remarkably unscored, and repainted (photos will be up on my website tonight...). Rear drums are well within spec for diameter (nice that they cast the limit into the drum itself...:)), they've been bead blasted on the outside (the inner surface is nice and smooth...) and will be painted with caliper black (vice the red for the calipers) soon.

4. Transaxle mount is loosened up. Moving around to the rear next...

5. Windshield mastic is about half undone. I'm going to make up a cutter using 30 thou safety wire with a couple of wood handles to release the bottom edge (save the blocks, I know...) and get the glass out (which will allow unfettered access to the demist vents and horns. The plastic demist ducting is in pieces; when it comes time to reassemble, I have some scat tubing of the proper size left over from my plane's engine project (it's a nice orange...but no one will ever see it...:)) last year that will fit nicely.

Planned for today:

1. After I'm paroled for the night, going to take all the front a-arms to the blast cabinet and clean them up. The lower left rear arm had a couple bends, probably from strapping it down to transport it...sigh...worked out the bends on the shop anvil last night. Seems ok..the bushings look almost new, but, thinking that the PU bushings may be the way to go on reassembly. I know punching out the old rubber ones are a, will just clean up for now and listen to the discussion here and in the KB for thoughts

2. Body/frame is being crated even as we speak. Forward Air ready to move. Hangar space cleaned to receive; picking up 30 Gal air compressor to move into corner (and hook up to filters and air tool tap...).

3. Pick up, on the way home, a rubbermaid under-bed storage thingie. Figure it will have enough capacity, while being shallow enough, to open up the coolant system (not going to be pretty...have original front radiator tubes, so, just going to pull the hose off the transfer tube) and drain it. Radiator will get dropped off at Lawrence Engineering (a local enthusiast's parts shop...) for cleaning/pressure test/check the internal baffle/etc.

Things coming on the site...

693R (going to have to tie it down, it's getting so light...)

Date: Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:35 pm
Subject: quick steering rack q

Can a TC rack be used to directly replace an S2 rack or is there some magic movement of parts from one to the other that has to occur?

Just wondering...and have looked at mike causer's excellent diagram from jerry's site but maybe sitting in 7 hours of mind-dulling meetings already today have caused synapses to not fire properly... ( be careful and don't take chances out there.....)

693R (soon to be but a shell of her former self..).

Date: Mon, April 30, 2007 6:37 AM
Subject: 693R Update

Well, not too much done this weekend (had to command a US Civil War reenactment up here in northeast Philly over the weekend...which limited my "Lotus Time" as my SO puts it...), but, did manage to get some work done last night after unpacking the car, taking a long shower, and consuming something besides hardtack and coffee...:)

(I'm in the middle)

1. Finally got around to checking the dymo S/N label on the boot flange. The number therein bears NO relationship to either the record plate in the airbox OR the VIN plate in the windshield (which don't agree with each other in terms of VIN outside of the last 4 digits...). The number comes out as Y0127, which, according to some I've spoken to over the past few weeks/months, may mean that this was a rebody at some point. I'll crawl under the right side and check the frame. If it is a rebody, then this means that this car was really ridden hard and put away soaking wet. If is it a rebody that was dinged up this bad...hate to see what the original looked like...

2. Using a length of 30-thou safety wire wrapped around 2 wood dowels (and a copious supply of wood shims and duct tape), have started (and am about half done) cutting the solbit to remove the windshield. Saved the two rubber shims (duct taped them to the windscreen...),but, I think that the new body uses the rubber gasket for the windscreen, so, they may be superfluous, but didn't want to toss them Just In Case.

3. Except for the radiator draining and removal of the info plate in the front air chamber, the front of the car is stripped.

4. Removed the gear shift lever (steve v: the bolt is coming, I promise..:)), angle brackets for the dash (saved the chassis bolts...), front shift logitudinal link (clevis really buggered up...have a spare I obtaned from RD that's never been mounted...:)), handbrake lever-to-front cable thingie (I can see putting that back together is going to be an opportunity for using some colorful anglo-saxon metaphorical language...), speedo cable, and passenger side shoulder harness.

5. Removed, last week, the entire MC and base (a refurb'd one is coming with the body/frame). Need to clean out the reservoir...flush with clean brake fluid?

6. Using the kits I obtained last week from Ray, re-sealed and reassembled the freshly painted/cleaned brake calipers and put them aside for later installation. Feels good to put something together rather than the somewhat depressing job of taking things apart. :)

7. Last thursday, stripped and chromated/painted all the front suspension arms (I think I mentioned that, but don't know for sure..). The bushings all look like they're in good condition, so, am pending the notion of replacing them at this stage.

8. Climbed under the rear suspension and cut the old brake hoses to drain into containers. Replacing them with aeroquip, so, no need to save them (and the overhauled frame is coming with new hard line, so, no need, I figure, to save anything of the original brake system. other than what needs be saved. But, I'm not bunging up what's left...

It seems I'm moving slowly into the final stages of this part of the trek. I've specifically NOT delved into the joys of the power unit removal (which I'm scheduling for the weekend of the 12th...a friend is coming over with a cherry picker and nylon strapping so we can lift this beast from the bottom by slinging it with the strapping...) and an engine stand...

Any thoughts/comments about the inevitable gotchas?

Anyway, just wanted to update the group on the progress...

693R (looking Real Sad in her state of decomposition in the garage..will be glad when I start building the new chassis and things start going together again...).

Date: Tue May 01, 2007 8:59 AM
Subject: 693R Update

Got a lot done last night.


1. Fully drained cooling system (one of those shallow 31 qt rubbermaid storage containers works great for sliding under the chassis...) and removed radiator, heater core (full of various leaves, dust, decomposing sealing foam...), swirl pot (awaiting the nice aluminum one from the west, will have the original one available when I FINALLY have an inventory of stuff), and all hoses (except for the waterpump to/from heater core. Most of the hoses are well-experienced (read past their useful life...) and were tossed in favor of new (RD has the front hoses and most of the ones in the back. What he doesn't have is easily sourced from the local shop...). All sorts of different mfr of hose clamps...go for originality or safety? I'm thinking of just raiding the clamp supply at the field...and going with new aeroseal worm clamps.

2. Disassembled heater core from the box. Full of ash and trash...leaves, dust, etc. No leaks, but, dirty. Brushed it off with soft brush, drained out the remnants of the coolant, sanded (with a red scotchbrite pad....) the metal can, end flap plate, and repainted with a light spit coat of chromate under semi-gloss black.Looks nice. Let dry overnight, will reassemble with new #6 PKs this afternoon.

3. Broke down radiator. Removed otter switch, old hoses, gravel screen. Nothing in too bad condition, but will bring to the best shop in the area for cleaning out, pressure testing, checking the membrane on the header, etc. If needing recoring, will go for a finer pitch on the fins and maybe a deeper (ie more rows in same space) core. One can never have too much core cooling capacity, right?

4. Wirebrushed the gravel screen. Not in too bad condition; chromated it and let sit overnight.

5. Removed windscreen. Gently placed, well-padded, in the basement.

6. Car is stripped back to the firewall at this point (except for the right door...which will have to be removed when the shell is pulled out...too close to wall to fully open so I can sawzall it out...).

On to the engine room, Scotty. Coming down the stretch, I think. Now...what have I missed...? May just pull the body off at this point; make it easier to finish stripping the back of the frame. Thoughts? Nothing left up front...took bolts out on the tunnel to remove dash mount...brake cable is in the tunnel...just have to release the two in the back, the two on the T, and the 6 along the firewall and she should come off...


693R (Real Light Now...)

Date: Wed May 02, 2007 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: finally its rolled out and ready

> >looking back on it it appears a phenomenal amount of work and
> >time for a grocery getter europa --ed

Yeeee Ha! Another one closer to rolling tires down the road...may be a grocery getter, but, think of how much you can't stuff in the car...hey, a new way to loose weight...only drive the lotus to the, you have to leave all the junk food back on the shelf...what a concept...:)

Let's see...yesterday, in my own trek to achieve the same point in the time/space continuum...

1. Removed the RD replacement starter. Nice piece of work. Cleaned it off, put it on the shelf.

2. Removed both cantrails from the interior, which I had overlooked in stripping the thing down. Pretty to, stripped the old Hyde of Nauga off, took some of the 1/4 inch cement...trimmed both pieces. Nice. Rooted around in my stock o'lotus stuff and came up with 2 hides of connoly that I had left over from my '86 turboesprit rennovation. Cut a couple of strips off, used the old Nauga as pattern...little high-strength contact cement on the back...compressed as I bound it...nice. But french blue colored. No problem...out comes the bottle of leatherique in about an hour...polished them up...and that's finished. Look brand new (well, in concept they foam and cover counts as new, right? Will put some photos up on the website...a little behind in doing so...)

3. Sanded the heater box to get the surface rust off. In doing so, wore away the mfr adhesive tag...oh well, there's concours points. Flushed out the heater core with hot water (both forward and back). Brown stuff came kept flushing in both directions till it ran clear. Gathered up some 3/8x1 foam wx strip, applied to the ends as original, reassembled freshly painted box with new #6x3/16 PK stainless screws, and re-tied on the feed warning tag that was hanging from the outlet nipple. Hey, there's a judging point back. Put the completed heater box in the basement.

4. Started removing the MC from the extension box (since an OH one is coming with the new frame..); slight snag...the 7/16 pivot bolt is resisting being removed from the pivot. Have to think about this one...managed to get the nyloc off the bottom, but, it just ain't coming out. I know the new box has an MC actuating rod (ie both the pedal to pivot and pivot to MC), so, I may just release snap ring and take the boot, washer, etc. off from the old and install on the new. Cleaned up the exterior of the MC...does anyone have any suggestions as to what to flush the MC with? Clean brake fluid? Mineral spirits? Isoporpyl? It is not in need (so far) of a rebuild, so, would just like to flush and fill at this point when I get back to reassembly...and want to leave some fresh fluid in there while in storage to keep the seals flexible. (I have caps in the outlets).

5. Removed handbrake cables from trailing arms/parking brake arms (for lack of a better word) on the backing plates. Dropped the cable onto the floor. The cable is pretty well frozen solid. Another part # on the list to Ray (we've started a 3-level ordering system...#1 is what I pick up this week...#2 is what I'll pick up in 2 weeks....#3 is long-term parts that I will need eventually...:)) Right now, I have new: throttle cable, clutch cable, heater cable, choke cable (previous two are off the shelf generic replacements...I have an original choke cable in good condition, but its engine end is threaded, and I have a weber replacement which takes a plain cable...sigh...). So, the parking brake back cable will complete the set (the front cable is in decent shape...) of actuating cables that will be new.

6. Drained most of the fuel from the tank (I had filled it up and put about 5 miles on it before deciding to strip had a full tank...) into a couple 5 gallon fuel cans. Guess I'll have enough for the lawn mower now...noticed that a) a PO had put a nice, large, replaceable element gas filter in line with the pump inlet, and b) had used plain rubber hose (marked for "PCV Valve Use Only" for the fuel line (and had routed it along the rear suspension cross brace over the EXHAUST SYSTEM. OK, one good, one bad. Already plan to toss and use stainless braided fuel line when I go in the other direction. When tank comes out, it will go with radiator to be cleaned, checked, etc. But, will still replace with a new steel one, and keep this on the shelf...

7. Removed VIN tag from windscreen area, big placard from plenum, and put in file folder with title. Still have to figure out how to reconcile the title VIN (which is listed as 650693R with the windshiled tag which is 0693R which is different than the number listed on the big placard...PA requires a pencil rubbing of the VIN tag with the title application) with 2 different presentations of the number. Government employees are so flexible, right?

8. Disconnected the middle transverse link for the shift from its bracket...but haven't pulled the rear longitudinal link for and middle link out yet. Put long bolt back in (I have new nylon bushes as well as heim and ball joints......the existing ones are pretty toasted..).

9. Ran up to the airport with the radiator stone guard...into the sandblast cabinet...cleaned up well. Again, spit coat of zinc chromate, gloss black epoxy over it. I know it's old, used, etc. But it turned out nice. Brought home, put in basement.

Can you tell I'm having fun with this? Almost as much as replacing most of the sheet metal forward of the center pedestal in a C172 that a student had run off the end of a runway last year while OH'ing my own engine at the same time...:) Actually, it is therapeutic...I'll be Real Happy, though, when the process is reversed. And all this between 4PM and 8PM...when time for dinner rolls around and relax watching House, MD at 9...

Comments always welcome.

(a sad, sad sight in the garage as she sits there, forelornly stripped of even her identity, awaiting the final indignity of having her heart ripped out and put on display for all to see...:))

Date: Thu May 03, 2007 7:40 AM
Subject: Latest

Well...since jerry has picked up this tale for inclusion on his site...thanks..:) Maybe some will find it useful...some find it sad...some find it whatever...

Yesterday was a consolidation day:

1. Took inventory of all the parts I have stored in the boxes. That's everything that could be disattached. Noted where fasteners were needed (time to raid the stainless stash at the hangar for the 6/8/10 sized stuff), what will need cleaning/polishing/renewing/etc, and what is fine as it is.

2. Finished dyeing the cantrails. I find that shooting a light, even coat of dye on the leather, letting it flash off for a day, then adding 2 coats over gives an even, clean finish. There's lots of solvent (probably to carry the dye into the surface...) in this formulation, so, it seems to flow out quite nicely. The're done, sitting on the basement 'Lotus shelves' for reinstallation.

3. Finished removing the cooling system rubber hoses. Note to self: RD has repro'd the fronts at 44. each, the heater tube to heater box at 12. each, the swirlpot to engine is 11.50, and the theromostat hose at 49.15. The transfer tube to swirlpot is a standard NAPA straight, sent off an email detailing future needs...

4. Found tag on my front door from UPS concering Dave Bean shipment. Left at 10:30AM. Need to sign for the shipment. Wondered about why some folks (I know, loss of shipment, theft off front porch, etc...) insist on having a sig. One of the conundrums of daily life: everyone works long hours. But, package companies only deliver during work hours, when no one is home. :)

5. Remembered that there was still coolant in the engine block...slid the big pan over to the right side of the block, removed the 17mm plug as shown in the manual...good thing the pan is 2'x1'...the coolant drips down from multiple places coming out of that plug...:)

6. Noted the need to install adel clamps on both trailing arms when reinstalling to hold the bundy pipes...there was no support from the leading edge/front hose back to the cylinder. There are holes, however, in the top side of the arms. Will put in a couple rivnuts on the top edge and a padded stainless clamp/screw when I strip and chromate/repaint the arms.

7. Removed the lower padding on the dash in the basement, since the Hyde of Nauga is loosening up from age/abuse/etc. Noted that the end supports seemed to be kind of strangely attached. Looked in the book...and whomever assembled the new dash back in the day had swapped left and right braces, then just rebent to match the holes in the body to pick up the courtesy light switches. Sigh. Nothing like getting a complete Europa education, right...beginning to wonder if there is ONE PART on this car that I won't have to touch...:) to the shop anvil, pull out the body work hammers...gently worked back into shape...checked fit on carcass with dash...seems to line up better...metal parts into 'to be blasted' box...dash back downstairs safely on the shelf.

Oh, yeah, re-glued the Hyde of Nauga on the removed trim. Will redye this afternoon.

8. Attempted to remove the wiper motor and cable/bases. One came off nicely. The other...on the passenger side...uh...I stripped the nut/post. Even avter soaking both with kroil. Damn. Another part to search out. The photos I have of the replacement body show that Brent left those on...maybe I'm lucky and he left the wiper motor in there too? Fire off email to enquire.

9. Swept out from under car. Lots of dirt, rusty stuff, etc. Will certainly have to wash the floor when I'm finished and get the old carcass out and before I move the new frame in to begin the construction.

10. Tried to email, from my phone, the photos I shot. Never went thru...verizon problem (nah, they can't be messing up...). No problem...transfer to the sd card and plug into the PC...nope...SD card is in my second (un-enabled) Treo in the Caddy, at the dealer...gotta wonder about this week...but it's will be over soon.

11. Removed VIN and plenum plate, put in safe with title.

To do:
Today...I may just take the 750 out of the shed and go for a ride after work (and picking up one of my cars from the dealer...). Need the decompression time, and I'm pretty much at the end of the deconstruction except for the engine...

693R (carcass of which visibly recoils in horror whenever I walk into the garage...:))

Added some photos the 05-03-Parts_Stuff selection in my website.

Nothing too interesting, but, lots of shots from some of the work I've been doing.

Also...the crated body/frame/parts is on its way as of tomorrow...that shot is in there too...:)

Date: Fri May 04, 2007 9:18 AM
Subject: Yet Another Update

(you might think I have nothing better to do...)

Spent a, for me, relaxed afternoon getting yet more done...hope this is not boring everyone...if so, I'll stop...but, I figure some are vicariously thinking about going down the same road, so, that's why I am keeping track via the list...and helps me see where I've been...

1. Received the Dave Bean box with the horn button...all that for a bloody horn button. Anyway, removed the new center cap with the enameled logo, disassembled the old center cap...and swapped buttons. Yeah, it's not the original sans-serif lettering, but, it looks better than the crazed and broken button that came with the car.

2. Stripped the non-locking steering column of the switches and horn ring. Sanded the old, scratched paint off, masked the lower cap and column inside at the steering wheel end, chromated and painted with semi-gloss black. Reassembled (and noted that the purple horn wire had a rub-thru on it, so, slid a piece of heat shrink over the exposed area and sealed that off. Tested the switches, shot some cramolin cleaner in there to de-oxidize and lube the contacts, and reassembled the switches. Noticed that the plastic trim caps were cracking...into the parts bin, and dug out some non-cracked samples. Cleaned them up, polished with simichrome (works great on plastic if you use a light touch..) and reassembled with new #4 SS screws. Installed (for the time being) the steering wheel on the shaft...looks great (less filling?). Wrapped up, onto the Lotus Shelves in the basement.

3. Pulled the carb linkage, disconnected the fuel hose from carb, unbolted carb, sealed up intake manifold. Whilst digging around in the parts supply, came across a sleeve full of (well, minus the water pump gaskets...) the rest of the gasket set that a PO had bought. So...I have the gaskets I thought i didn't have. :) Figured, well, might as well take off the intake/exhaust. All of the top nuts (and one stud) came off nicely...but, the lower nuts (underneath) were hex head bolts. Don't have the size (you have to get at them in the gap between the intake and exhaust from the side...) in my toolbox...and don't know whether these are replacements or as factory-assembled (I'm assuming the former...), so, can't tell whether they're metric or SAE (I'm assuming metric, unless someone retapped/helicoiled the holes...). No problem...called my snapon rep this morning and arranged to borrow a rack of both of the metric and sae long hex drivers. Will add to the collection of tools in the roll cab when done (can use them at the field in any case...)

4. Disconnected the fuel hoses from the tank at the joint both of them had in the center of the run, and connected the tank-side hoses together to free up the fuel pump and seal the system. Removed hoses from fuel pump and put plugs over the inlet and outlet of the pump.

5. Loosened up all the rear bolts for the tranny (single frame and 2 tranny bolts). Am going to pull the unit as a unit, so, will keep together for now.

6. The SO is having a flower exchange at the house, dragged all the parts that were sitting by the door in the den down to the basement. I'm sure the garage will NOT be a part of the house tour...and that's ok, but Europa parts in the den probably aren't a suitable decor, either.

7. Dug through my Europa Shrine (a box from the 1980s up to now...)...and came up with:
This doesn't include the books (like the 2nd edition "Story of Lotus" 2-volume set, the original Ortenberger book on the Elite, or a whole bunch of other volumes (including an autographed copy of the book that Ray P. had co-authored...), books by Chris Harvey and others...and a big stack of Brooklands reprint books. I figure, just from the linear foot measurement, that I need to get a 4-shelf bookcase to fully unpack the entire Lotus library (which includes service manuals for all the cars I've owned, including the parts breakouts...:)).

I know I have an ACBC-autographed program somewhere in the stash from the some race that my good friend Mike O'Kane (RIP) and his dad (who owned S/N 4 of the S1 Elan...,also RIP and the folks responsible for turning on the Lotus switch in my brain) dragged me to in the 70s...

Good start (none will show up on Ebay...:))?

Anyway...the to-do list is shorter now for the deconstruction; I was notified by Brent that he is taking the crate to Forward Air this afternoon, so, have a call into them to alert them to the impending arrival and destination (Philly) terminals. Need to arrange to move (I will have 48 hours once it is offloaded at PHL...) it from the terminal to the, trying to call in some favors for a still planning to take the to-do from yesterday and get that accomplished this weekend...may be travelling to the western 'burbs of DC next week for a meeting, so...that will curtail some of the work for a couple days.

More later,

693R (Will rise again...)

Date: Tue May 08, 2007 8:26 AM
Subject: Last piece waiting to come out

Well...except for dismounting the coil and resistor...the 3 last major pieces are ready to come out:

1. The engine. It's all disconnected. Except for the mount, there is nothing connected between the power unit and the frame. Saturday is the big day...cherry picker coming...have 3 500-lb test (yeah, I know, overkill, but, guys, I work for a beltway bandit where a pound of prevention is always used for an ounce of cure...) nylon come-along straps...will cradle the engine front, along the bell housing joint, and rear of the transaxle to pull...)

2. The trailing arms/hubs/lower links (which will be easier to get out once the engine is out...that front bolt/nut is a pita to get, just left the arms hanging off the frame right now.

3. Still fiddling around with trying to figure out how to disconnect the emergency brake rear cable from the horseshoe. At this point, I'm just going to cut the cable at both ends of the horseshoe and be done with it. I'm replacing the rear cable anyway, no great loss. Saved the chassis clips from the rear ends of the cable, though.

4. Removed the old original clutch cable from the carcass. Sheath is rusted pretty well. Held it out straight, and it took some effort to pull the cable from either end. I guess I could soak it in kroil and flush it with lube (or soak it in a tub of corrosion-x and 30 weight...), but, for the effort, is is worth it? It's in the trash, so, if anyone wants it, LMK before tomorrow...:)

5. Passenger door is still on...but, will cut off when I move the body out of the garage. Last time I drove her in before taking her apart, I didn't exactly follow the centerline of the runway, so to speak, so, can't open her up wide enough to use the sawzall...oh well...

6. Need to pick up a couple lengths of 2x4 or 4x4 lumber to build a subframe (and some wheels) to run under the seat mounting holes. Couple #8 lag bolts thru fender washers should be enough to put her on wheels again, albeit small ones...I'm not going to build a complete subframe/cradle...just enough to allow me to move her around (either in and out of the garage, onto someone's trailer if they want her, or make it easier for the breaker yard to drag her onto the flatbed...:)) Going to have to make space in the garage for the

A few things of note from yesterday...

1. A PO, somewhere along the line, replaced the rubber lower arm bushings with pu bushings. One less thing to obtain from RD...

2. The metalastic pivot bushings for the trailing arms are, how shall I say, not exhibiting the same physical integrity as they were originally delivered? So, the new replacements I have will work well on the new frame.

3. I was notified yesterday that Forward Air had loaded my crate on the truck, and is scheduled for arrival at PHL on Friday. Got the waybill #...and can track it cross-country. Still trying to arrange carriage from PHL north to the airport...

Also spent some quality time last night with the wiring harness, and made a list of some of the replacement wire stock needed from Brit Wiring. Nice thing is, he's close to me here in Valley Forge (over north of Pottstown PA), so, can save on shipping (and visit some friends over there at the same time...).

The first 10% of the road is coming to an end. What's the old saying: the first 90% of the job takes 90% of the effort...the final 10% of the job takes the other 90% of the effort...

So, until Saturday...will console myself with shooting some photos of the wreckage, working on the wiring harness, some more blasting/chromating/painting, and general tidying up of the boxen of parts that are awaiting reinstallation.

693R (Soon to be a desolate hulk)

Date: Tue May 08, 2007 5:55 PM
Subject: new photos

of the carcass online. Of note:
Not much else to do until it's time to pull the engine. Going to go up to the field tomorrow and blast away at the box o'parts, clean up the MC to bulkhead pipes, and start sanding back the hood and boot and shaping the fibreglass repairs I made a month ago. Guess it's set up now...:). Might as well get a leg up on the stack-o-bodywork that's in my future.

Some preliminary parts that will be available, for a reasonable price:
Trades are welcome, too. Not trying to make any $$$ out of this...if you need this stuff and have some bits you don't need, let's talk...

693R (so light, this 139-lb weakling can lift it off the ground...:))

Date: Fri May 11, 2007 8:41 PM
Subject: Thoughts going forward

Well...didn't get the car today; there was some 'tractor trouble' on the way, so the current schedule is for delivery to PHL terminal on Monday...which works out better for my friend with the truck.

Anyway, on my nightly sojourn around the block a few times...had time to think and reflect on the next steps (after the engine/trans comes out tomorrow, and the frame arrives here sometime next week.

Over the past couple months, I've had a chance to collect parts, renew old acquaintances with Lotus engineering, and listen to not a few of you all encourage me forward.

I also have a stock of NOS parts left over from 444R and a couple other S2s along the way, as well as lots of new parts from Ray, DB, and the other suspects (btw, I fully agree with Pete's assessment...we're not that big of a community that somehow, for the last 30-some-odd years, has provided a decent living for ray, dave, don, and the rest of the parts folks..and I'd rather use the Right Part than make something fit...just to save a few. But, that's me...anyway...

There's a couple different directions I can go here...first of all, it must be said that I'm no stranger to wrenching, metalwork, electrical work, etc. All the stuff you need to have some acquaintance with in order to maintain these things.

Now, that being said, I have a couple of directions I can go:
I guess I'm looking, not necessarily to rush the process, but, I have most of the new parts and so forth at hand to do the rebuild of the mechanicals, as well as the space to put it all back together.

So, if the process is part of the fun, why not work steadily (hey, the kids are out of the house filing up their own houses, my SO likes sitting on the lawn chair right outside the garage in the evening working on her sewing, and it's a way to get rid of the aggida from working for the fed gov't.

Thoughts? Criticisms? Insights? Crazy?


Date: Sun May 13, 2007 3:54 PM
Subject: Update....5-13 you may have seen from my previous tag...693R is nothing but a mere shell of her former self.

Yesterday, after a great morning of flying with my students...the last one (Joe Hann, owns Flemington Foreign Cars in Flemington NJ...not an advertisement, but, I have to mention...) and his cherry picker and engine stand were at the ready. So...after his lesson, off we moved to Chez Boyle to finish the job.

As we were contemplating the removal of the engine...up drives Dave Putscher...primed, at the ready...with a set of gloves at the ready. Friendly discussion followed...your intrepid author went under the car to get at the blasted bottom bolt on the mounts, the previous gentlemen setting up the lift strap to the front right block lifting hole and one of the bolts for the starter (lacking the Proper Renault Lifting thingie...but didn't want to yank by the manifold...been there done that...and had to replace the gasket...:(). Seeing as most of the removal had already been the last bolt came out...the picker took the weight...and the engine was free....up she came...and this body and frame were separated from the engine it was mated with all those years ago in Norwich.

We dropped the engine onto an old 600x6 tire from the airport...and proceeded to divide the transaxle and motor. Both are Bloody Filthy...covered in dirt, oil, grease, small animal name it. But...was able this morning to rescue the throwout bearing (which will go in a box with a non-working fuel level sender for shipment to dave bean for rebuild (of both...)), and start the manual cleaning of the engine with lots of shop rags and cans of Gunk. Slow going, and the kerosene in the Gunk gives me a headache...even doing the job in the driveway with lots of fresh air...but, don't want to contaminate the ground water or my front, it's scrape off the heavy stuff, spray on the Gunk, scrub with a scuff pad to loosen the junk...wipe clean with the shop rag. Slow going, as I said...but the results are going to be worth it (if not C quality, at least clean...)

Back to yesterday....dropped the trailing arms, removed the metalastic bushings to rescue the spacers and bolts...pulled the coolant tubes to take up to Easton PA to get new ones CNC bent based on the originals in stainless (contortions were needed for the return line...but it came out without drama...), and finally cut out the rear parking brake cable to free up the horseshoe and front cable.

Also removed the L brackets for the engine mount, but left the old ones in the frame...into the blasting box for later attention this week (chromate/paint).

The rear mount is fine, just some cleaning up, and she'll be fine for the reinstall.

Note to steve: One of the original shift ball joints broke from the movement as we removed the biggie, but, it gave me a chance last night, while going thru the parts removed, to rebuild both the swivel and transverse arm for the shift mechanism.

The ball joints that Ray is providing have a neck diameter that is about 2X the size of the, it would seem to be a bit sturdier than the original part. Only problem is that the male stud is a 1/4" stud vice the 3/8 of the original, but I found some ots brass bushings at McM-C that are just the thing to bush out the holes, so...I think it will work out OK. Set the distances as per the manual (6.375" is 6 3/8...why could they just not say that?) for both the ball joints and the heim joints (which I replaced at the same was'm hoping once I get the mechanism set up right, the shift action is "reasonable". It should be as new...all the joints and so forth will be replaced....just FYI.

Noted that the flywheel is in fine shape; no scoring, no wear step.

Pressure plate is clean, same thing. It's the older, will have to be careful, but the spring fingers seem ok, so, will keep it for now...

Will replace, however, the clutch disk, pilot bearing, input shaft seal, and engine output shaft seal (which I have). Did note that the installation was missing the dirt shield at the bottom of the bell housing...anyone have an extra they'd like to part with in decent (read useable) condition for less than the ransom that Frank wants at SCW? Otherwise, I'll just bend one up out of 40thou. But, would rather have the Right Part...:)

Oh, yeah...after EVERYTHING was out of the carcass...we then removed the gas tank. A DPO somewhere along the line had braized hex head screws onto the tabs...which made it a bit of a pain to get enough clearance to move the tanks around. Not much fibreglass damage (well, minor compared to the rest of the body...:)) getting it out..and found that somewhere along the line, the tank had been Kreemed. I'm willing to bet it was kreemed with the fuel sender in place..which would explain why it probably doesn't work...will investigate as I get to that part of the reconstruction. Not worrying about it right now... Yeah, we used the cherry picker to get the backside up high enough...

All this being accomplished...we pulled the axle stands out from the back...and dropped Molly onto the floor (I have 2 2x4s with wheels running longitudinally, bolted thru the outside seat holes...). Pushed her out the garage (so I could clean up the garage floor after a month of rust/dirt/shavings), then moved her back in, against one wall.

Will get to the passenger door in a couple days...supposedly, my new body/frame/stuff will be in, will have some time to in between....

Anyway, am going to go down the path of building up the frame, dropping in the engine, painting up the engine compartment and nose, setting the body (which I will probably get to at least the primer stage on most of it...), reinstalling the glass...and try and get her on the road sometime soon. Not holding out any hard deadline. But, don't want to have her sit and take up space.

In terms of timeline as seen in terms of work to do...this is the bottom of the valley. The next 50% of the job will take the other 90% of the effort, right?

And, before I close, I would like to thank Dave publicly for driving up yesterday, lending a hand and good counsel (yeah, I cut that 2x4 to support the front of the engine on the stand...and take the weight off the mounting post...thanks for the suggestion....:), and keeping the project on track...

On to the next phase...and lots of cleaning, new bolts, hoses, blah blah blah.

Photos: and

693R (soon to start coming back from boxen of parts...)

Date: Mon May 14, 2007 5:34 PM
Subject: 693R update, and a question for the experts...

Well...for a short time, my new old body shell and myself were in the same vehicle...:)

Picked her up from Forward Air in PHL...nicely crated, no obvious damage (well, some rubbing from where she shifted a bit in the crate and contacted the 2x4s that framed it. Didn't seem like anything worse than what I have right now...(and does not seem as bad as when I moved 444r from the Bronx to KC and it rubbed up against the side of the van most of the way there...and destroyed a 3-month-old paint back of the driver door....:))

Also got the steering rack, overhauled shift mechanism, and the POR15-coated brake master cylinder mounting box. Already swapped over the MC...and the shift transverse pivot has (ta da) brass top hats in it...:)

So, I swapped over the new heim joints and ball-jointed/bushed assembly I built saturday night. Now I have 2 complete early 65 shift mechanisms...

Now adding to the pile of parts that will go to a good one mechanism (with the nylon tophats...sorry...), and the MC box (in pretty rusty condition, but, if someone needs it and the rocker inside...I'll make it available...a little cleanup and it will be ok...

Also received the TC steering rack. It is longer, end to end, than the S2. Sigh. So...swap over the parts, since the core rack is the same? I guess. Has new boots on it, and is also painted with POR15, and moves freely. It's the same base rack, soooooo....unless someone says that the steering knuckle ends are shorter...I guess that's what I'll do...but will try and fit it up first just to Make Sure (tm).

Now...a question...I have to pull the throwout bearing out to get it out to Bean. How in the name of Sam Hain do you get the fork pins out?

I can't see a way (and I'm sure NO ONE has the Special Tool they mention in both the Lotus and Renault manuals I have); I think using the claw end of a hammer would be, how should I say it, DPOish, not to mention potentially damaging to the pin (the last thing I want to do is snap that little head off.... So...any insights from the accumulated wisdom of the group here?

Anyway...will be going up to the airport (intermediate stop...where I'll separate the body and frame...bring the frame home and transport the body to princeton from there...) to pull the shell out of the transport trailer. Will try and shoot some fotos...was too busy at the terminal loading and getting yelled at from the floor foreman for stealing one of his fork lift men...(the 50. passed on the side helped smooth things over...hey, it's the east coast, right...that how things get done...I'm from Jersey...whaddabout it?)

And...other quick differences between this body and my old one is...this one is a 69. No side light cut outs, and the windshield is not a direct, will have to get the rubber mounting gasket...THAT will befun...from what I can see, there was no obvious bodged repair damage to the shell...the firewall is in good shape, the door pin bushings are round(yes, I carried a pin with me to check...:)) and it looks like it's the ORIGINAL FACTORY paint on it, which means it should be easy enough to sand and repaint when the time comes.

Anyway...a good day today. If anyone does have any insights into how to get those throwout bearing arm pins out, I will be a most appreciative student...:)

693R (a play in 2 bodies, 2 frames, lots of new parts and a checkbook...)

Date: Tue May 15, 2007 7:02 AM
Subject: Further investigation....was Re: 693R update, and a question for the experts...

Got the call from my friend last night when he got out of his Normal Job...and was on his way to the intermediate stop where we planned to disconnect the body from the frame (otherwise known as twin pines airport near trenton nj...big hangars are a beautiful thing...he rents one to work on his late model stock car, and it has enough space to fit mine off to the side.).

So, the problem of how to get off the trailer? Easy...couple ratcheting straps on the pallet hooked to a come-along that was connected to an overhead dead fall. Rube Goldberg, no doubt...but, I did the steveadore routine and guided it off the trailer...came right out and into the middle of the hangar floor. :)

From whence we proceeded, with prybars and sawzalls (that seems to be a useful tool in Lotus maintenance...:)) to open up the crate. That took about a half hour...and were rewarded with the sight of a really nice body and frame, resting on the pallet platform. I have some shots of the process and reveal...but got home too late last evening to get them up on the website...will get to it later today.

Close inspection revealed not too many gotchas:
Other than other location of apparent cracking was horizontally along the right rear sail for about 6". I'm serious...couple stress cracks on the top of the fenders, one minor one on the roof, one along the right sail, and that's it that I can see. And this after being shipped XC in an open frame crate (which my assistant is going to use to build a workbench in his race trailer...we were joking that there was enough lumber to build a second story loft in it...).

Oh, and Brent shipped the body with the interior tunnel felt rolled up in the footwell, as well as the top pins and spacer bushings.

The paint is a respray, (original color was L07 according to the plate...) but it was apparently taken down first, since I can only find one paint layer on a grey primer, but the plenum was not reshot at the time. That will make it easier, I think, to sand out and level the thing.

Chassis is clean, shiny black. No bends, front face has no waves...and no rust I could see. We supported the body on high stands (took about 5 minutes with 2x4s thru the wheel wells (padded...) to check the diagonal measurements and quick laterals from the book's dead on. The frame, according to Brent, was acid dipped, primed, and expoxy painted. Should last for a bit, no? That I can use the stock suspension arms is a nice benefit. Oh...either the brake lines were well preserved, or they are brand new (the fittings are still shiny...:))...they'll look nice with stainless hoses...;)

Overall, I am Real Pleased. The condition of the frame and body (even with the minor issues to take care of, which in total will take a good afternoon's worth of work to rectify...) is better than I expected, and, in comparison to what I have in my garage, almost a perfect base with which to start the reconstruction.

Can't wait to put the frame in the van and take her home and start the mechanicals. The body can wait...John made the suggestion that it would probably be a good idea to at least get the engine compartment and nose area (which is in Real Fine sagging fibreglass or ANY cracks...the front air intake flange is perfect...:)) painted in black (which echos what Steve mentioned yesterday...), and cut in the door sills/front plenum/etc to primer and perhaps color, and go from there. I'm inclined to agree...

So...stay tuned for the flip side of the last month's worth of missives. I'm still pumped. Guess the Lotus disease never really goes away. Just hope I can do her justice (and, working carefully and by the book...).

693R (The end of the tunnel is a long way off...but not as far as it may seem...)

Date: Tue May 15, 2007 7:21 PM
Subject: New Photos Online

Photos from the 'unwrapping' last night as well as some more shots from today have been put online at: and for the 14th and 15th of May.


Couple of things noted as I went thru the body...
Started sanding her out. The paint is coming off strain...but the underlying layers were not obviously prepped properly (say that 4 times fast...:)); there are lots of places where you can see chips and uneven adhesion. Will try and get thru most of it...smooth it out nice and level...and use a high solids primer to provide a good base for a top coat. Either that or go all the way to the glass...and do it right once and for all...basecoat/clearcoat....flex additive...

Getting ahead of myself, I's in the notebook for further consideration.

Anyway...going to take the evening to relax, watch some tube...and be privately pleased that SOME things in this project are going right...:)

693R (on the way back...)

Date: Wed May 16, 2007 6:53 AM
Subject: New Photos Online

First, thanks to all who made the suggestions on how to get the throwout off the fork. I works (and yes, I did disconnect the return spring...but had to convince the lever to move forward past the bell housing...)...part's off, and in a box to go to bean this afternoon, along with a spare, non-working fuel level mechanism for, have to pull the housing to replace the input shaft seal (THAT looks like a real PITA...but will take the box to the airport and varsol it down first...gasket, I presume, is NLA, right? Guess it will have to be form-a-gasket and a silk thread.

As to what goes where and in what order...that's what the parts manual is for...;)

Actually, I'm replacing pretty much all the fasteners (except the top front pins, which seem to be a lotus-specific part (a welded nut on a long threaded stud? What were they thinking...oh well...) since I trade my time at the airport as an instructor and part-time wrench for access to the shop and a reasonable discount on the hardware I need (I get the AN stuff at cost...).

Besides that, when I take apart an assembly (let's say the rear trailing arm...), I put all the bolts/screws/etc back on when I take the assembly down. It's a trick I learned from my A&P mentor...makes it easier to figure out what goes where and how when it comes time to reassemble.

These aren't complicated pieces of machinery... they were built, in the main case, by hourly labor, were designed in an era when builders were a bit more creative (and gummint less intrusive), and designed to a price point. Their design is elegant but its execution was...British? I love these things, but, they certainly are not for the mechanically fainthearted...:)

The challenge is what keeps it interesting: improving its assembly within the bounds of the original intent (ie is anyone going to know that I'm using stainless AN hardware to attach the body to the frame using commonly-accepted assembly techniques? I will...:)) while correcting what are well-known design deficiencies (grounds, grounds, grounds, and wire capacity/lack of relays, etc) to get to a more reliable piece of automotive art...not the concours field (I'm building this to satisfy my own love of the marque).


693R (Parts boxes flying in from all over...:))

Date: Fri May 18, 2007 7:04 AM
Subject: 693r update

Yeah, except for humour...been quiet the last few days...but not for lack of progress on the Lotus front...

1. The box o'blasting stuff got full (mostly engine mounts, and small ash and trash), so hied myself off to the hangar to do what I could to rectify things. Spent some quality time with the bead blaster on the front clutch cable fitting, both side engine mounts, and the rare, unobtanium-constructed rear mount (which I didn't bead blast, only cleaned it up with varsol...) to get rid of 36+ years of schmutz, old paint, a peculiar gelled oil/dirt paste, and what have you. Next was the buffing wheel to finish the job...then an even coat of chromate. Left it in the baking oven there that we use to cook small parts (250 degrees for 10 min or so...) and flash off the chromate primer. Came out nice. (Note...don't recommend doing the chromate primer thing at is toxic...if you do use it, I do suggest an organic vapor respirator at the least...).

2. Continued with what seems to be an unending task of cleaning off the same vintage of crud off the engine block. Gunk gives me a headache, but, I found wearing the respirator for this task also helps. It is fiddly, detail-oriented work. But, I think the results will look nice. I am NOT looking forward to tackling the flywheel end of the engine with this stuff, but, will pend that till I'm ready to change the crank seal (which is weeping a bit and is probably the source of all the oil crud in the bell housing (which I'm also slowly cleaning out...but my friend Joe...the shop owner, graciously offered access to his shop parts cleaner to handle this particularly onerous task...and one of his men for the day to handle separating the bell housing to replace the input seal...

3. Drained the oil so I can get the pan off, which could also stand having the gasket replaced. At the same time, I will take the opportunity to strip the original paint off (stripper this time...don't want to risk leaving glass bead dust in some crevice in the pan to wreak havoc down the road...) this part as well as the valve cover and corrosion proof and high-temp gloss black paint it. Have a new rubber gasket for the valve cover, so that will be employed when I reassemble.

Just as a note...does anyone have an extra cam housing base gasket and o ring they'd like to get rid of? While mine is off...I don't fancy reusing gaskets...this is the only one that is missing from my pretty complete gasket kit...

4. Continued the sanding out of the replacement body. My goal is to get it evened out and at least get the respray layer of primer and lacquer off to at least the original finish. I'm figuring this is going to take the next month, but, I'm not in a hurry, and the physical effort is good for the soul. Laid in a supply of woven, chopped strand, and veil, as well as normal and gelled resin. If it's not flyable tomorrow, will spend the day at the hangar with the body working out the kinks and minor repairs (as well as tip in the hunk of glass missing for the clutch fitting that is being transferred from 693R).

5. Received, from aircraft spruce, 1/4" ID/3/8" OD bushing stock. A 2' piece...the replacement ball joints for the shift transverse mechanism from RD are 1/4" studs vice the 5/16" size on the originals. Honking them down tight isn't really what I wanted to, gently opened up the top holes to 3/8, cut two bushings of the proper thickness, cleaned up the ends...and installed in the shift tubes with a light fixing coat of JB. Will clean up the ooze this afternoon, but, taking a quick gander at them when I got home from teaching last night, they looked like they will hold up fine (especially if I add a plain AN960-4 washer on each side of the mount when I build it up. I was more concerned with maintaining the lateral location of the upper link than the front-to-back movement, but the bushing is central in the, it should be ok.)

Some other stuff came in...bulkhead padding (aluminized mylar over 3 different types of closed-cell foam...from JC Whitney...found mention of it in the KB, so figured it would be worth a try, even though the stuff from JC is sometimes junk...), and the stock of body grommets from British Wiring in the proper sizes...the box of new parts is getting pretty full...:)

Anyway, it's Friday. I guess it's moving forward. I'm setting up to get the garage back when the old carcass moves out next weekend...setting the new frame up on stands, and moving parts from my pegboard in the other direction.

Any insights welcome...sometimes I feel like I am running out of ideas, or, even worse, think that 'assembly is the reverse' can't be THAT simple in many cases. I know there will be gotchas on the flip side of this record...but, not being on any schedule to meet some show date or something has it's charms...

693R (In a hold right now waiting for the expect further clearance time...:))

Date: Sat May 19, 2007 7:47 PM
Subject: 693r update 5-19

Well..survived the onslaught of the student pilots....enough to spend some quality time at the hangar futzing with the body work...there was a nice (?) Ford hybrid in there net to, didn't do any paint spraying or such..confined myself to fibreglass rectification work.

1. Opened up the big can of jelled resin, cut up some strips of woven mat, sanded the back of the fender...laid in the catalyzed resin...put in the mat...and laid up 3 good layers of mat/resin on the front right fender edge. Bent a strip of aluminum the width of the lip (along the tire side...) to match the contour of the opening and support it during the hardening...and let it fire off.

It's pretty nice...will have to be sanded to blend...and still have to match the outside contour. Will take some in-process shots tomorrow...and some completed when I get to that stage. Will contour it with the jelled resin and chopped strand.

2. Using some of the resin left over...filled in the screw holes for the side reflectors. I think the lines of the body are nicer without those hang-on salutes to the dictates of the US DOT...when they fired off...laid in a light coat of bondo over it. Bondo does have its uses, especially on a fibreglass car...but, there will be little left after I finish sanding it out--I use it for what it's meant for...a leveler...not a body re-contouring putty...

3. Took one of my old black/sliver nose badges to the field and put it on the front. I just had to...kind of like staking the claim or some such. I guess it's's a Lotus...:)

4. Test hung the passenger door (with one of the stainless kits) it pretty much centered in the opening...used wood wedges for top-bottom alignment...and moved front and rear on the wedges. Only took about a half hour; however, as stated in a previous post, the a-pillar edge of the door will have to be "adjusted" to parallel the body a-pillar. Somehow I have a feeling that they did that at the factory...consequence of the constant self-readjustment of the fibreglass, I guess. Just another step in the process, right?

5. Set up the stainless brake hoses and fittings on the front calipers and rear trailing arm hard lines. Nice construction, and I'm sure they will work well when the time comes. Well, a lot better than the 37-year-old rubber ones.

6. Sanded and sprayed the left trailing arm in Lycoming grey. I did not disassemble the arm, just masked off the brake back plate and hub. Ok..just moved down a bit in the concours judging. But, one has to draw the line somewhere, right? But, the arm looks nice.

7. Had a nice conversation with a fellow lister this afternoon swapping part lists and such. So far, folks here have requested a number of the excess parts I have...the rack, the adjustable lower links, a bunch of the bulkhead fittings, and so forth have been spoken for...I do have a never-mounted TC spoiler, and some other stuff that slips my mind. Willing to talk to anyone who may need this...for a reasonable price (+shipping...) I'm in search of, and will be, a useable crash pad. Even if a little warped (not cracked, though...), since I'll be covering it in leather, so...if you have an S2 or TC crash pad...I'll listen closely...:)

Haven't continued cleaning the engine, transmission or what have you. Will get to that later this week; will have to travel to the national capital region for some meetings to resynch the work project I'm, the journal may be a bit light for the next few days...


Date: Sun May 20, 2007 11:43 AM
Subject: New Photos online

On my website under 5-20-Body_Work.

Enclosed therein is the photo I promised Steve of the AN bulkhead fittings you can get from RD...and I'm trying to xref to the AN hardware book right now...

and a shot of the nose badge quietly residing where it belongs...

and a couple shots of the fender repair...but haven't ground down the rough edge yet and contoured it, so...but it set nicely over the night, so, will backfill it later this week...and used the jelled resin/chopped strand as the filler to build it out.

and a shot of what I'm talking about concerning the a pillar and door fit.

Briggs: great suggestion...but the earlier cars 'feature' a solid piece of fibreglass for the pillar vice the later cars where there was some opening to shoot the foam into.

No biggie...I think, what I'm going to do when I get to that stage is line the rubber channel (both body side and window side) with the urethane sealant and use some comealongs cantilevered on the outside of the window to pull the pillars in to the center of windshield along the outside tangent until it dries. We'll see how that works...but won't rule out using a belt sander to slightly relieve the door edge along that line.

I do like the idea about filling the sills, though. Now, that sounds like a winner. It would be good to fill in that entire area, but it would limit access to the door striker plate if you went too far...:)

Anyway...not any progress today; busy packing in a few minutes to pick up docs and travel to the national capital region. A few days of meetings, then back home. Nice thing is that I can use the travel time to offset my 40 hours this week and get a long weekend next week..:) Ah...the life of a government contractor, right?

693R (no funny observation today...;))

Date: Thu May 24, 2007 6:32 AM
Subject: Fuel Prices

How about a 693R Update...:)

1. Made it back from DC last, swung by the airport, where the new body resides...and changed into grubby clothes to continue working on the fibreglass repairs on 652667:
2. While the resin was reacting, sanded down the filler patches I made at the 4 corners where the reflectors were formerly in residence to cover up the mounting holes.

3. Continued sanding the engine compartment walls, and, when down to solid fibreglass, painted with semi-gloss black over primer. Not going too wild here; I've seen in the past where folks have actually finished the rough side so it looked like the engine compartment of an early Elite...there is some charm about the rough finish in these cars..Have about 1/3 of the compartment done, and will continue to do this work as time allows. Also took measurements to rough cut the firewall insulation; will do a test fit this weekend and put that aside for later attention.

4. Checked on my auction sniper (sorry if it's someone on this list that I beat out...) to make sure it was loaded for the koni shocks that were on evilbay. It was. I guess I'm putting konis on the to select the springs...but, they worked out to about 50% of what avo or spax would be. Have to watch the budget just a little...

5. And...just before I retired..went down in the basement where the harness is residing...and swapped out the old, corroded fuse block with the new one I picked up from BritWiring on monday. Still have to work in the new solid green to the rad fan as well as run a lead for the headlight filament B+ for the relays (will separately fuse it...) as per the Glenn Davis article from an early 80s ReMarque, but, I have the heavy duty wire in the proper color code from BW, so, this should be a non-issue.

Photos will be forthcoming tonight or tomorrow...traveling up to a shop that was recommended by my friend Joe who does pipe bending...will bring along my coolant tubes and down pipe...and see if he can replicate...understand he has the equipment and experience doing so for resto shops in the area. So, might as well give it a try...and report back...

693R (Starting to make sense of the whole thing...)

Date: Fri May 25, 2007 7:37 PM
Subject: Friday Update

Well...a day off, managed to get a bunch o'stuff done...which was a pleasant way of spending a day off, right?

1. Took the tranny up to my friend's shop to replace the input shaft seal, replace the gear oil, and the output seals. Separating the bell housing from the gear box (after spending some Real Quality time at the big parts washer getting off 30 some years of schmutz, dirt, grime, etc. that were encrusted on the box. know, the box is actually aluminum colored?

Drained the oil. Needed it.

Anyway...managed to save (since I know it is unobtanium...) the bell housing gasket in one piece when we unbolted it. That alone made the day worthwile....

Pulled the input seal. It was cracked and hard...which made removal easy. New seal from RD popped in place (the right way..:)) and pressed home. Nice.

A little gasket sealer on both halves...old gasket back in place...bolts back in...torqued per the manual...sealer oozed out...cleaned it down.

(we slipped a finger cut from a nitrile glove over the shaft to prevent the seal from being cut...)

Removed the side caps...with the proper tools...old seals were ok and flexible...but, popped in the new ones from Bean (and the O-ring)...and Joe's tranny guy (who has Renault training..) did the set-up in putting it back together.

I'm figuring that it's good to go...

Picked up the front disks/hubs/etc sans the old, loose, an corroded ball joints/trunnions/etc...

2. Took the coolant tubes and down pipe to Rusty's up near easton pa...well known in the local area for pipe bending and custom exhaust systems. Took one look at the tubes...and the down problem he says...asks if I want to wait around...nah...he's open till 6 on saturday, so, will go up there after my students finish abusing me in the morning...

Will let you all know how the new tubes turn out...and if they fit properly...he did say that it was no problem...and he's been doing it since, I'm hopeful...and will report back...

3. Came home with the clean tranny, clean front spindles...and proceeded to install the trunnion rebuild kits, new ball joint, and so forth. Torqued down everything as it should be (I have a feeling that I'm going to become even better acquainted with this tool...).

Didn't do anything else...need to get to the local auto parts store that has a good selection of washers...and lock washers, and star washers in the size we need...that's for tomorrow.

A good day all around...

693R (building subassemblies....things coming back together...)

Date: Sat May 26, 2007 7:03 PM
Subject: Carcass gone...

But not forgotten.

Dave Putscher came up prepared with his truck...and trailer.

1. I cleaned out the body of all the schmutz from the deconstruction...figured Dave did not want to spread junk down the road...I know how I feel when stuff comes flying along dinging my windshield....

2. Dave showed up...backed the trailer into my driveway...and with some judicious jacking, supporting with jack stands, leaning on front and back...and, the remainder of the original 693R ended up on the back of his trailer (photos on under today's date).

3. After accomplishing this...we ran off to Twin Pines airport to pick up the VIN plate and matching plenum plate for the title I had received with the newer body. Finally...I'm sure it will be put to good use.

4. Dave gave me some good advice about re-aligning the A pillar on the new body so that any modifications to the doors to provide a smooth and even relief between the original doors off 693R and the new body. At this point, any good advice is welcome.

5. Upon coming home, cleaned out the garage. It's empty. All that's left are the individual subassemblies that will be moved onto the new frame. One of them, the rear trailing arms, whilst moving them, I noticed that the 1/2 inch bolts that hold the upright in the arms were loose. Don't know how I missed that. No matter. A handy wrench, a little elbow grease...and everything is back to tight. Sigh. EVERY BOLT? Yup.

6. Continued cleaning the engine with Gunk. Since the garage is empty, it was easy to move the stand out to the front where the breeze was...and just hack away at getting the crud off the block. One thing I notice as I go down this road is that the driver side of the casting is a lot better (smoother?) than the off side. Wonder why. Another thing to chalk up to the uniqueness of this car...

Wonder what tomorrow brings? May give my friend Joe a call...see if we can jack up the new body high enough to get the new frame out...I'd like to get it into the garage so I can start the reconstruction forthwith...who wouldn't, right?

693R ( the blocks...ready to go...)

Date: Sun May 27, 2007 8:42 PM
Subject: Sunday activities..

Not too bad a day...figured, after working on my dad's house, and assorted things going on...would spend some time at with the new old 693R...which I jacked up on stands so I could work on it at a higher level....

1. FWIW, brought the 693R VIN plates with me and riveted them in place. So, 652667 officially becomes 693R.

2. Carved out the tunnel at the location where the front mount is located for the clutch cable, and, glassing in a reinforcing plate of 40 thou 2024 aluminum, fettled the piece of dave's car to fit...and glassed in the patch with the holes aligned properly. For those who have to do this, on the S2s, the front of the mount is aligned with the front holes of the seat mount. I don't know whether this applies to the TCs, but, this is an FYI for those who have to go down this road.

3. Pulled back the trim on the offside a-pillar to see whether there was anything there that would account for its close interference with the old door. It was bowed a bit outward; more than would be accounted for or adjustable by attempting to pull it in when I put the windshield in place with urethane sealant. I also noticed a lateral crack about 1/2" down from the upper corner. Sigh. So...what to do...

- Pulled down the trim the rest of the way. Took it off the driver side, too. Figure I'll cut new pieces from some of the Connolly I have in the basement.

- Roughed up the back side, opened up the crack a bit, an laid in a few layers of matt on the backside.

- Then, took my low-wattage heat gun, and proceeded to gently warm up the a-pillar to the point where, while placing an angle aluminum along the outer edge, it would move into the proper, straight line from the roof to the front fender. Let it cool down, and test fit the door. Better. Put the door in with the new hinge, and shimmed to sit evenly in the opening, paying special attention to the a-pillar clearance. It's not totally even, but, with judicious 'adjustment' of the fibreglass on the door edge and a pillar, it should be ok. Well, at least better than it was before. I think it's closer to being less stressed when I put the windshield gasket in with the sealant...and clamp it tighter on the outside tangent....

(note, the paint never did bubble, so, I did not move the resin past the hard stage...just used the heat gun to accelerate the ability of the glass and resin to 'work' in the direction it should be...)

4. Laid in some jelled resin and chopped mat mix on the other wheel arches whose cracks I laid mat in a couple days ago. Let them fire off, so, will hit them with the sander tomorrow.

5. Started scraping the paint off the roof. It's coming off in thin strips right down to the bottom layer of primer. Lots of work, but, in the end, may be the easiest way of getting lots of the layers off.

6. Locked up the hangar....went home and barbecued some thick cut pork chops....:)

To all the veterans on the list, those currently serving, and those who have served, on this Memorial Day, I do thank you for the gift of your service, in whatever branch you call home.

693R (a 69 in a 71 guise....)

Date: Tue May 29, 2007 8:14 PM
Subject: Short Update

Spent some frustrating (yet, in the end, quality) time with the wiring harness, tank sender, and tracing down the source of some insulation on some wiring that was less than designed by the evil geniuses in the UK auto wiring industry.

1. The MGB sender as specified in the Moss Motors catalogue is the same range as the Lotus. Max resistance of aprx 220 Ohms...minimum is around 17. Close enough, I think, within the range of our reality. Anyway, though, the arm is most certainly NOT the same. So...a little wd40 on the clamp ring, gently tapped the pin with a punch and body hammer to rotate it came. Pulled the sender out..the Lotus one has a return line which will have to be soldered in, but, took the mechanism apart to remove the Lotus-specific arm and tension spring. Took the MGB mechanism apart, removing the same parts...and swapped the Lotus arm for the MGB arm and reassembled. Checked the operation...moved freely...and put a VOM on the contacts and ensured that the resistance changed as the arm moved. Good result, so, reinstalled with a new gasket and lock ring that I purchased with the sender. More later...oh, btw, the sender is 29. USD and change, IIRC, and had it in a couple days. You do have to be a bit careful bending up the tabs and separating the mechanism cases, but, nothing that a Europa owner can't do...:) Just be patient and gentle...

2. Strung out the wiring harness on the back deck. Sigh. Lots of grease, dust, dirt, and Really Tarnished lucar female connectors. Not to mention corroded crimps, some melted wires (up at the radiator fan bundle), some multi-contact barrels were, my work was cut out for me. First things first....put the stainless wire wheel in the dremel, and started from the first lucar in the front harness and worked my way back. Some of the wires were SOOOO dirty that I had to clean them multiple times to get the crud off so I could see the wire code; in other cases, I had to unwind the wrap back to clear cable...but, no problem (had picked up a couple spools of the proper wrap from brit wiring...). Where the crimp was still non-corroded, I used the dremel to clean the contact, where it was, I clipped off the old, corroded contact and crimped on a fresh contact with the proper AMP tool.

3. Replaced, wire by wire, the fuse block. All the contacts had green corrosion and were loose. For 25. USD, it didn't make sense to keep the old one. Suggestion: if you haven't replaced yours, unscrew it from the frame and look at the condition of the rivets on the back side...if they are discolored, green, or loose...spend the $$$ and half hour and do yourself a favor.

4. Tied in the green purple extra wire that goes from the stop light to terminal 8 of the DB10 relay onto the main harness, and wrapped the internal contact into the outside of the harness so there are no 'extra wires' hanging around when I get back to re-hooking up the electrical system. Still have to straighten out the rat's nest of wires in the light switch/blinker/wiper/headlight column mess. But, it should be no problem...minor, when you think of it in the context of where this project is now. 5. Unwrapped the front harness at the radiator fan connections to see how far back the green wires were damaged. They weren't...but, cut the green wires back about 1' and spliced (soldered, double shrink tube) in replacement green 14 strand, and then reterminated in a new lucar connector with fresh cover. Rewrapped the bundle, and, for good measure, put a new 4-way splice in for the ground bundle, and built a new ground wire (16 gauge with a lucar-to-bullet). While I think the existing original relay is OK, I looked up in the KB/parts cross-ref as to what can replace it...considering I have a pile of SPDT 30-amp relays and sockets...may go down that road. Not totally C, but, it may work better....

Re-wrapped the leads for the horn and fresh air fan (whose green wire was also replaced in 5...:)).

6. Today...figured I check out whether or not the repaired gas level sender was actually working. So...using the cleaned up harness, disconnected the B+ feed to the voltage stabilizer, hooked up the gauge, and pulled the gas tank out of the yard shed (which was, as I recall, half filled), and connected up the leads. Took a couple jump leads from my motorcycle 12V battery thru a 2 amp fuse...hooked it all up...and was rewarded with a gas gauge reading 1/2 tank. Disconnected everything, took my mower gas can, filled up the europa tank, reconnected everything....and the gauge read full. Disconnected the leads again....siphoned out 5 gallons (refilling my gas can for the mower...guess I'll have to use up some...), and it read a little over 1/4. Guess it works. Didn't before. That's why I like working on mechanical stuff. When you do it right, you can actually accomplish something (unlike making up meaningless powerpoint slides for empty suit presentations about stuff that will never get done....).

7. Took the night off. Put out an email to my reenacting buddies to help this coming saturday to lift the new body off the new frame so I can get it home and start building it. Finished packing the box of stuff for a fellow list member...will try and get it to fedex tomorrow or thursday....:)

693R (stuff starting to work...)

Date: Wed May 30, 2007 8:49 PM
Subject: Body Work Update

Did some work on the body this evening...things are coming along nicely...maybe I shouldn't say that...:)

1. Finished removing the headliner. I have some nice off-white FAA-approved headliner left over from my's fireproof, and looks great. No foam backing, but, from what I can see, the factory laid in the foam and then put the perforated lining up on the foam (I say this because the foam was evenly cut around the top of the windshield and the lining folded over onto the flange and glued in place...). I will probably go down the same road rather than find headliner with the foam backing already attached. Thoughts?

2. Finished sanding out the filled holes for the side reflectors; I shot some rattle can primer to see if the filling went ok...seems that it did.

3. Continued scraping the paint off the roof. Comes right off using a straight aluminum scrap piece left over from some aircraft work at the hangar. Sanded it smooth...and again, shot some rattle can primer to see if there are any pinholes and the like. Of course there are. Can't see them in the new photos I've put up, but, I do have a BIG tube of finishing putty for that eventuality. :)

4. Finished feathering in the wheel arch repairs on both front and rear arches on both sides. Nice, and they look good. That I've backed all of them up with a couple layers of chopped mat and resin may help stave off cracking in this area, I hope. Yeah, added weight. At least a number of ounces. Hope Chunky doesn't mind.

5. Filed back the repair I made on the offside a-pillar so that the windshield gasket will fit better. Also adjusted the door (it's nice having an empty cockpit...makes it easier to move things around and access openings...:)); the result of the minor re-shaping looks ok (still have to fine tune the door-pillar relief edge to even it up a bit more)--with the door centered in the opening, it doesn't rub...and there's a photo in the latest directory to prove it...:)

That's about it for today. Watching History Channel International...DirecTV has some good channels (don't know the last time I watched regular network TV...;)).

If there's anyone in the Philly-Central NJ area that wants to pitch in on Saturday to help me lift the body up so I can get the frame out and me to volunteer...:) I'm buying lunch and cold beverages...!

693R (moving forward, one step at a time)

Date: Sat June 02, 2007 7:24 PM
Subject:'s going in other direction

A BIG day here at Chez Boyle...

1. Took the day off from flight training to get the frame home. Did it with the help of one of my former students; got it on the top of the van without too much trouble. Got it home. Unloaded. On jack stands. And ready to roll forward.

2. So, started putting on pieces (knowing full well that it's just for fitting...). I guess I wanted to see whether or not the stuff goes together the way it's supposed to. You can't see it here...but the grin was big. Hey I guess it does fit together according to the book.

3. Whilst fitting up the un-sprung Konis I scored off evilbay...I noticed that the bushings were painted on the internal bore when they were rebuilt. Consequently, the AN8 bolts that are supposed to be a close fit didn't even go in. A little buffing with the dremel sanding tube...and the bolts slide in real nice, no binding, and nice fit.

4. Fit the double male fittings on the front brake hard lines just to see. Needed a little adjustment (which AN960 washers are for) laterally...but offered up the bundy pipes...and they fit well. Tightened up all the fittings from the 3-ways thru the double males. I'm sure I'm going to have leaks, but didn't honk down on them too bad. As they used to say, I'll fix it in the edit.

5. Rusty (the pipe bender) called. My exhaust downpipe and transfer tubes were done. Galvanized 1 1/4". Left them long so I can cut to length as needed. The return line, being long, is impossible to put back in, but, when cut to length, will slide back in. I offered up the exhaust fit first time, and looks just fine.

While there, Rusty offered he would be more than willing to bend whatever pipes needed be bent. I left my Renault downpipe there; he is willing, should there be an interest, in making a run of whatever pipes we need. Anyone out there needing R16 downpipes (I'm also going to pass this on to ray...since they're only about a half hour apart) So, if anyone is in the need for either the S2 downpipe or transfer tubes (if you're at the same stage I am...)...let me know and I'll put you in touch with him.

And...the coolant transfer tube that I did test fit (the pump to radiator...) fit like a champ. Exact. Even in the rubber bushings. No strain....right in the center. And it all lines up. I'm excited about the other one, as soon as I trim it properly. Being more complicated, I'm a little concerned, but, based on the work on the other pipes...I'm thinking it won't be a problem...

Real nice work...and the photos are in: under today's date.

693R (the construction begins...)

Date: Mon June 04, 2007 8:56 PM
Subject: 06-04 Update

Photos in my website under today's date.

1. I woke up early this morning thinking about the coolant return line, so, I was anxious to get back home to work on the final tube install. Lined up the old and new return tube, and cut the new one to the same length as the old on both ends. It was impossible to install with the longer length...cutting it to length allowed me to get the tube in the chassis...crossing my fingers, went to the front and pulled the tube through. It FITS! The mechanic, his name is Rusty, is a genius. By hand, eyeballing the old tubes, measuring by hand. Exact fit. He is willing to build to suit, if anyone is interested. His number is 908-213-6336, and is located in Philipsburg, NJ. I will make my own tubes available if you don't want to ship your S2 pipes...he has my R16 downpipe right now, so, if you're in need of one... give him a ring. No financial interest, etc. Just Real Satisfied (it's nice finding a craftsman that knows what and how to do good work...).

2. Taking the roll of closed cell foam, cut a slice off to cover the top of the cross beam. Nice coat of contact cement on both, aligned evenly, and it was a cinch to apply and even out.

3. Tried, for over a half an hour, to put the bellows in the back of the frame where the shift tube exits. Finally used some heavy duty contact cement to fit it in. This stuff is what we use at the hangar to seal bushings to, I don't think it will come out any time soon. Test fit in the shift the shift lever...dropped the old shoulder bolt in...and the lateral pivot...can you see the smile here? It all went together nicely.

4. Put on the new rubber hoses for the coolant system; they all fit nicely, and, with the new transfer tubes cut to length, everything lines up well. And, with the new alloy swirl pot in will be the cat's meow when finished. I'm thinking that instead of painting the swirl pot and transfer tubes, I'll leave them in natural color (the tubes are galvanized, so, they won't rust...and the color is a nice contrast to the black frame and engine trim. What you all think?

5. Used some of the same sealing tape we use on wing bladder tanks to cover the rivet heads to close up the unused holes on the passenger side of frame as called out in the service manual. It does the job, and lasts for a long time exposed to fuel and other atmospheric changes, so, I figure it's appropriate (if not the right color, sorry about that, form before function) for this purpose.

I am amazed that the pieces I have stored just fit back in where they belong. The amazing job that Rusty did on the transfer tubes and exhaust pipe...and the new the present pace, I'm planning to reinstall the engine by the end of the month.

Setting a record for building a chassis from scratch? Guess those years of A&P training and engineering school come in handy...:)

693R (parts actually beginning to look like a Europa again...)

Date: Thu June 07, 2007 9:46 AM
Subject: 693R Update

No photos (yet...need to get some shots up, but, been busy with Real Life and some work issues lately...but that hasn't stopped the progress...)

1. Received a care package from a fellow lister with a new cam extension housing gasket, anti-roll bar, bronze shift bushings and handbrake assembly...:) All in great useable shape. So...cleaned up the handbrake (removed the button, cleaned up the aluminum handle, chromated and painted, buffed out the white button, and reassembled). Looks brand new (at least what you'll be able to see. Straightened out the sliding parts, lubed it up...and it works smoothly. Put it on the shelf for assembly in a couple months.

2. Cleaned up the cam extension that's off the engine. Got a Lot of Cruft off it, and it looks great. Popped out the old seal which was hard and missing the back-up seal spring (don't recall seeing it, looked on the engine, no good...assuming it either flew off around the garage when I removed it, or it was never put in when the seal was installed...the new one has it, so....). Pressed the new seal in. Sized the o-ring that goes under the gasket and put all in a plastic bag for later reinistallation.

3. FINALLY painted the right trailing arm. Sanded down, chromated, and painted Lycoming Grey to match the left side and front a-arms. Loosely installed in the frame, same as the right side, with new AN960-7 washers and nyloc nuts. Loosely hung the existing spax/springs on the cross member and carrier to locate. Attached the long brake hose with stainless p-clips clamping the hose, cushioning the hose in the clip with a short length of plastic sleeve. Drilled new holes for the p-clamps and secured on both arms with stainless #10 PK screws.

4. Attacked the right rear brake cylinder, which was obviously leaking. Removed the top spring which freed up the shoes and removed the two nuts holding the lower adjuster, as well as the locating pins for the shoes. Pulled the dust boot on the back of the cylinder off enough to get the U-clips released, and removed the cylinder, replacing with a fresh new one I picked up from RD a couple months ago (the Box O'Parts is getting empty...time to fill again...). Noticed that the backing plate was only held on by three 1/2" bolts. Fished around in my other Box O'Parts, came up with one that was able to be put in with a star washer by snaking in back of the hub. Tightened ALL of them down (they were all a bit loose) with the proper crow's foot. Then, reassembled the brakes on the backplate (reassembly the reverse of removal...:)). I have a method of attaching that top spring, if anyone is interested...ctc me offline for more info...

5. Assembled the complete front suspension to check for fit, etc. Everything lines up. I did notice that the koni shocks I have for the front (adjusted them, too, for softest setting +1 turn) need to be shimmed out when installed. Made note to obtain more AN960-8 washers in both thick and thin values to do this...:) Mounted the steering rack and measured end-to-end with the new steering ball joints installed. Noticable toe-out when the proper ball joints installed. Which figures since the track of the TC is .5" wider using the same uprights, etc. Not a problem. The steering rack needs to loose about 3/4" off each end to give the ball joints a range to adjust the toe. So...called my mechanic/friend/IFR student pilot for suggestions. His solution: reverse thread on a proper thread die, measure the amount of overage total, divide by half, and use a cut-off wheel in my die grinder to remove that amount on the end, then use the thread die to clean up the thread on the free edge. Sounds a lot easier than taking the rack apart; looking at the depth of threading on the tie rod, though, it looks like I will have to make up in threading amidships on each rod what I remove from the ends to account for the jam nut. Shouldn't be a problem, will think about this a bit, since I took the suspension down to bring a shock to RD to fit the new front (shortened) springs...

6. In a fit of "pimping" the ride...polished the return tube to the swirl pot. Too cool. Got to stop cleaning up stuff. It really did come out looking like polished stainless. Guess I have to do the other one now....:) Not the whole length, though. There IS a limit to the insanity, you know. Silver and black will most certainly be the color scheme for the engine room.

7. Along that line, cleaned off the water pump of some surface schmutz from having antifreeze spilled/leaked/etc on it, and took off the rear pullies. Took them both up to my second favorite place...the bead blaster, and cleaned them up. Again, spritz coat of chromate, and Tempo dull aluminum make them look almost brand new. Also took the opportunity to clean up the alternator adjustment bracket. Now that I think of it, the base mount for the alternator needs to be cleaned...may attack that in the next week or so.

8. Finally got around to using the allen wrench for the oil plug that I bought in White Plains back when I had 444R and drained the oil. Had never taken it out of it's Craftsman tool pouch; it still had the old price tag on it (and who says 'oh, you'll never need that thing...'). Will remove the pan next week, clean/paint that up, and put it back in place with a fresh gasket and hylomar.

9. Test fit my existing (the new one is on its way elsewhere...) shift shoulder bolt in the bronze bushings. Very tight. hmmmmmm....steve, were these meant for the RD replacement or sized to the originals? In any case, put the nylons bushings back in, and test mounted the shift tubes, etc. in the chassis. Nice...everything lines up and is square (as best I can tell; the chassis is leveled) as it should be. It better be, with all new joints and rod ends all around.

It's been a couple days since an update; just thought I'd fill in some of the blanks in the story. The next few days, I'll be in DC (yet again) for my biannual flight instructor recertification, so, the chassis will have to relax...which is probably a good thing. My friend Joe has signed up to re-hang the engine and tranny on the weekend of the 23rd; I was thinking that if I could get a SWAG as to the weight of the assembled body and it's distribution, I could build a support structure on the bare chassis aproximating the weight with the proper side-to-side loading, and torque the suspension (which has to be off due to the drag of the nyloc nuts...) once the engine is hung. Would also make it easier to check the toe at both ends, etc.

If not, will tighten to 75% of spec and bring it to joe's shop once streetable, put it on his alignment rack, set it up, and torque the bolts underneath while there.

But, at the present pace...the frame will be on its wheels by the end of the month, according to my admittedly optimistic projections.

At that point, the body will become the focus of the exercise.

Thoughts? Comments? Am I missing something?

693R (for a brief moment...all four corners had a suspension hung...:))

Date: Thu June 07, 2007 3:27 PM
Subject: progress shots

are in under today's date.

Date: Fri June 08, 2007 8:37 AM
Subject: Rear Brake Installation

A couple folk asked for how I did it. Seems there is some aggida over how to put the rear brake assembly back together, especially that kinky double bent bottom spring that seems to be difficult to figure out.'s my method. No warantee of correctness, suitability, etc. It's what worked for me, and is offered here in the spirit of information should be free.

1. If you examine plate JD of the parts manual, it should be a big help.

2. To remove...

2a. peel back the dust boot (unnumbered item at the top of the page) on the back of the cylinder

2b. Taking a center punch, pop one end of item 3 (top spring) back through its hole. It will most likely fall out of the other end, so, catch it as it drops to the floor..:)

2c. Remove both item 5 locating pins by holding the head on the back of the plate, pushing on the cap on the drum side and turing 1/4 turn. Don't let the spring underneath launch off around the garage.

2d. Slacken the shoe adjuster, item 11, all the way (or, at least a couple turns...).

2e. Remove the 2 nuts and split washers that hold the adjuster to the back plate.

At this point, the two shoes, bottom spring, and adjuster will come out as a unit. There are 2 wedges in the adjuster; the bottom of the shoes will be located in the slotted end, the angle end should face inboard. Probably a good idea to not disassemble an more than you have to...

2f. At this point, you can disconnect the bundy pipe for the brake line, catching the fluid (I didn't have to since the entire system was empty...this is a rebuild going on...)

2g. Remove #s 8 and 9. 8 is a flat fitting, 9 is a bent. Note that #9 has a couple dimples, on reassembly, these should face inboard and #8 will snap over #9, catching the dimples in the two holes drilled on the legs of the fitting to hold the cylinder in place.

2h. Remove the cylinder; a little lube on the swivel for the handbrake (white moly/bearing/whatever) is probably a good thing at this point. Reinstall the cylinder; it only goes one way in, and should capture the pivot for the handbrake under the base. (it will be obvious) Reinstall the clips (#9 is closest to the backplate and on the handbrake end of the cylinder...), slide #8 over it, and catch the dimples with the ends of #8.

Now, for the part that a lot of folks get torqued over...:) But, first, a little brakekleen on a rag to clean off the backplate, and check the torque on the 4 5/16x18 backplate mounting bolts. Remember, they're going into an alloy casting, so you don't want to do your gorilla monsoon impression; use the torque value in the front of the service manual as a guide. It is possible to remove the bolts one by one and refresh the lock washers under them.

2i. Picking up the brake shoe/adjuster/bottom spring as a unit, offer it up to the backplate. You may have to slightly seperate the two shoes to clear the hub and catch the top cylinder (this is where an extra set of hands may come in handy...but not entirely necessary...). Attach the adjuster with 2 nuts with 2 fresh lock washers (I prefer internal star washers, but, splits are entirely ok here). Check that the top of the shoes are in place, one on each end of the new cylinder. Replace 2x #5 pins, springs, and 1/4 turn locking plate.

2j. Now the fun stuff...the infernal top spring, right? You're going to need a brake shoe tool, a short length of 1" dowel, and about 1 foot or 18 inches of 32 thou (or 40 thou) safety wire, and a small piece of wood (like a paint stirrer stick...). Make a loop out of the safety wire. Put the dowel at one end, and twist the safety wire to catch it. The other end should be open. Put it down for a second... Pick up the upper spring, and hook one end in the hole in the web closest to the shoe. Now, pick up the dowel/safety wire puller, and insert the wire through the same relative hole on the other shoe, and catch the hook on the still-free end of the spring. Take the brake tool, and insert the 'squiggly' end through the center of the spring from the middle. You're going to use the tool to expand the spring, so, the 'squiggly' end (don't know any other way to describe it..but it will be obvious...) should point away from the end that is already seated in the shoe.

Place the piece of wood on the shoe that does not have the top spring atached, and open up the brake tool so that the open end (the non- squiggly side...:)) is clamping the wood against the shoe lining.

Now, while squeezing the shoe tool handle with one hand, pull on the dowel/safety wire with the other to pull the free spring hook through the hole.

It should just snap into place and clamp the shoes together. If it comes only half way thru, you can snake one of your fingers behind the shoe from the hub side to encourage it. But, if you pull on the dowel and safety wire loop smartly enough, you won't have to...It does take a grunt or two...

2k. Push the dust cover back into place, check that the handbrake lever freely moves the shoes, and attach the bundy pipe to the new cylinder.

Have a cold one.

It took me the better part of a half hour to figure out the first one. The other side took a lot less, once I had the method figured out.

Hope this helps.

693R (with new cylinders and fresh rebuilt calipers all around...:))

Date: Mon June 11, 2007 7:59 AM
Subject: Body Primer Q, other thoughts...

I've been tiptoeing through the KB...and have a question for the paint/body/etc experts out there...

Is the duratec primer (I note, with interest, some work with it a few years ago...) still a good choice?

If so, where to obtain...seems they only sell to distributors who sell to other distributors (is this some sort of ponzi scheme?) who don't sell to the general, great unwashed public. Any pointers in the right direction would be appreciated...

Second...I'm surprised no one had any thoughts on my musing about setting the suspension heights/torques by loading the bare (engine installed) frame down with equivalent weight (I have the corner weights from the bare body and am estimating the distribution of the add-ins...) before dropping on the body. Thougths? It would be easier, no doubt, not having the shell in the way; how far off could you be in ride height/loading/etc?

693R (Parts box empty...filling it up tomorrow so I can keep working by stopping at RD...)

Date: Thu June 14, 2007 12:53 PM
Subject: 693R Update's been a few days...Not that NOTHING has been done, just incremental progress on the continuing saga of this rennovation (restoration? insanity? fantasy?)...:)

1. Finally removed the lower links (the one on the onside was a bear...) from the hubs for cleaning and repainting. The links, somewhere along the line, were outfitted with pu bushings, which is a nice thing, but the plastic had migrated a bit into the threads of the outside AN8s that held them on the hubs. So, a bit of smoothly applied torque with my 3' breaker bar managed to unscrew them through the hub and bushing. Saved the #8 fender washers with which the bolt head and nut were being backed...and retired to the yard shed to sand, chromate, and paint with the Lycoming Grey enamel. Left to dry overnight, and they are good to go back on.

2. In the same vein, since there was no observable (or measurable) play in the rear hubs, I decided to NOT disassemble them at this time for complete rennovation, choosing instead to clean up the drive shafts, including the mass of hardened grease that had migrated from the bearing cups of the u-joints. I found, in my Box O'Parts, the grease gun tool to fit, so, will grab my hi-temp grease gun from the airport (we use it for wheel bearings and steering collars...) and give the joints a fresh shot of lube this weekend. I also opened up a gallon can of Varsol (stoddard solvent) and used this to wipe down the shafts; I may buff these out and shoot with some of the high gloss black after masking off the surrounding area just to freshen up the appearance...but not going to go wild with it.

3. Obtained, from RD, a fresh rear brake cable. So, following the process in the workshop manual, I threaded, first the front cable thru the slot in the front (and held it there with a length of safety wire...), snaked the loop thru the horseshoe, freshened up the threads on the other end, threaded through the horseshoe, put on the 2 nuts to aproximately where they should be (my arms are thin enough to get both hands into the tunnel...:)), and attached the spring on both ends. Ah...but this isn't the sequence in the manual...:) No problem. Using the frame clips, NOS clevis pins, and the proper E-clips and cotter pins, attached the ends, secured the cables on the radius arms, and relaxed (a bit, just enough to take off the tension) the front e-brake cable. Tugged a bit on it...and watched the whole thing work. It's great to see thing going back together and actually working.

4. While the lower links were off, masked off the painted radius arms, drive shafts, and back plate, and hand-painted the lower hubs with silver exoxy paint. I know, I should take it down all the way, yadda yadda. Trying to avoid the ultimate shipwright's disease, guys. It came out all right. Certainly better than it looked before. If I ever get down to that level, will beadblast and clearcoat, but, for now, it would have been a shame to not tart it up just a polishing the coolant tubes in the engine compartment, right? Hey, pride of ownership...;)

5. Moving to the front...ahhhhh, the front. I'll admit, the shocks I thought were going to be a good deal (you know what they say about something being too good to be true?) turned out to be, how shall I say, not what they were presented as. They're modified units, made for Formula Vee, and, from the numbers and characteristics I've been provided by Steve, Koni-USA, and Koni Classic Garage in Westchester County NY (the owner has 3 Europas!), are probably (likely) unsuitable for use on a road car, especially a Europa. They're not 2" springs, they're not 2.5" springs...they're 2.125" ID. Still working out this one, but...sold some avionics I had kicking around, so, it should be an easy fix (why not just get the right thing for the and learn....).

6. In the parts shipment yesterday appeared some new steering rod ends. Now, the TC rack I have SEEMED to be a bit long end to end. I was having nightmares of having to disassemble the old rack (which would have disappointed one list member to whom I promised it...) to get the rack-out-to-rod parts to move the S2 stuff onto the core rack assembly or cutting off the outer 1" of the hardened steel steering rod. So...with trepidation, I screwed the rod ends on all the way. Took off the new nut, and dropped the end into the steering arm on each side. Tightening everything up snug, but not to torque. Then, temporarily mounting tires on the front hubs and shimming them up to give me the published ride height (suspension droop...), I centered the rack on the frame cross box at the manual-defined distances, snugging (not torquing) the clamps tight and assembled the lower and upper steering columns on the rack (with steering wheel...). Turning the wheel lock to lock, I found the center of travel (close enough for what I needed...). Took out my toe plates, mounted them up on the wheels, and measured the toe. It's in. Total of 1/2". Standing over the beam, you can see it's toed in. The joints are bottomed. So, I do have enough range on both sides to adjust. Just barely. But, so far, the TC rack does work. Just doesn't have the range of adjustment. But it does seem to be a useable option, and there are some threads left inboard to loosen up the jam nut...I still can lop off some thread at the end, but, will save that in the eventuality that my method of checking is somehow deficient or when I fully put the front end together, there will not be enough range of adjustment to compensate. One thing I did notice is that the pivot of the steering rod is about on the line between the top and bottom frame pivots for the a-arms whereas the S2 was inboard.

7. Received the overhauled oil pan. Going to remove the 20 bolts holding the old one on, the gasket is currently soaking in a pan of water with a couple drops of speedy-dry to break the surface tension. Will take a look tomorrow (I am giving a final exam for my ground school class, will have to wait till then...), and go from there. I'm of the school of thought that agrees with Lew: you should not have to use any sealants on thick (or thin...) gaskets--such activities are frowned upon in the aviation industry, and go against the training I received. The only acceptable places are on the parting surfaces of engine cases (form-a-gasket and silk thread), or, if there is a real need, some hylomar on things like oil filler tube bottom gaskets. But never on oil pans, accessory cases, or the like. These engines are Rolexes compared to the Lycoming or Continental examples in terms of casting trueness or porosity imho...the implications of failure are a lot less, too. So...assuming the cork rehydrates fine, dry it is, torque cleanly per the manual, and go for it. It's not like if it does start to leak you can't get at it relatively easily...and it's probably NOT going to dump its load of oil in 30 seconds...which eventuality in a Lycoming at 5000' is a bit more exciting...:)

Note I haven't done any body work lately? Yeah, me too. I'm concentrating on the mechanicals right now...the body is next on the agenda after the engine is installed. I've set a goal for a chassis on its feet by Independence Day (July 4th, for those of you in the Mother Country or its Commonwealth...)--then I can start work on the body without the nuts and bolts hanging over my head. But, I've got a few things there that I want to get done in the next couple weeks, including finishing cleaning up the nose and boot, painting both semigloss black, fixing the holes in the tunnel, properly mounting and strengthening the clutch bracket mount, painting with good epoxy the bulkhead on both sides, and installing the bulkhead insulation.

So, while I've been quiet, it's not for lack of minor progress.

693R (slowly returning from the coma...).

Date: Thu June 21, 2007 7:10 PM
Subject: 693R update....a while, I know...

Been working forward on, it has not been an entirely uneventful week here at Chez Boyle and the resurrection, in not particular order...

1. Pulled the wiring harness out of the box to continue sorting it out. There's a lot of corroded ends that I again attacked with the dremel; some of them were past what I would consider safe or useable clean biggie...took out the box of brit wiring connectors and reterminated all the radiator fan connections, replacing the melted green wires by splicing and covering with shrink tubing. A number of the ground bullets were also redone with solder bullets versus the crimp-ons that were there...and made up some new 16ga ground wires and laced them onto the existing wrapped harness for the front end. In examining the wiring diagram, it appears as if the ground for the front end is carried thru the harness to the fascia panel; I'm thinking that picking up a ground point in the individual compartments with a good, solid, heavy weight ground wire may eliminate some problems...we'll see.

2. Reterminated the broken/corroded female spades in the engine compartment for the sensors, relays, starting solenoid, and regulator. There are a number of ring connectors that I will have to pick up from the field for the alternator, starter, and regulator (as well as the ignition system) and attend to those as I get to that section of the reconstruction...

3. Went through the chassis and tightened those bolts which do not have to be set at ride height/weight. Tightened up the others (minus the top thru-bolts in the front and the lower shock mounts (awaiting my new shocks...) to about 50% of the value; will set it correctly when the chassis is fully hooked up and weighted down...

4. Installed, with new #5s, the engine mounts to the side isolation mounts, torqued to spec. Installed the rear longitudinal shift link and tightened the links to the transfer mechanism. Took the great bronze bushings and installed them in the shift lever...with all the crud on the shoulder bolt, it would not slide in at all...darn. So...took the bolt to the hangar, chucked it in the lathe, and, using some white rouge, buffed the shoulder to a chrome-looking polish. Tried it again...nice and smooth. So, brought the stuff home, assembled, and, even without the transaxle in place, I know this is going to be a good shifting car. Now, to just fiddle around with the location link and so forth when I get the engine installed. That will probably take the last 90% of the effort to get right.

5. Along the line of working on pieces of the car...cleaned off the tranny of the dust and cruft, removed the lower link bracket, and used, masked off the openings and shafts, and used alumni-blast paint on the outside cases. Looks new. :) So, couldn't stop there, and blasted the lower link bracket, chromated, and gloss black paint. Stuck it in the oven at the field for 10 minutes at 250...nice. Put it back on with fresh bolts...looks like it just came out of the Regie's plant all those years ago. Well, except for the somewhat worn cross-shaft boots, that is...

6. Stripped and painted the location link. Reinstalled on the bracket with a new rubber washer and some steel washers on the offside. I know I'm going to have to fiddle with this, but took an initial swag at the thing at setting the length.

7. Removed the old oil pan (I had drained the oil a couple weeks ago...). Cleaned off the parting surfaces, and prepared the restored pan. Put it up with cleaned bolts (I had all of the square ripple washers that were on there...:)), a fresh cork gasket, and torqued to about 8 ft lbs (the bolts were all different torques when I took them off...). One of the holes was stripped (the bolt held in with silicone!), so, I tapped out to a #4 and put short AN bolt in. OK, does that make me a DPO? Don't think so; at least I didn't use silicone, right? That should take care of the weeping around the seam that was there before and, I think, contributing to the mess in the engine compartment.

8. Don't know whether I mentioned that I slid the transfer tubes in, finally, with the grommets in place. Here's a hint: use dish soap and slather it on evenly on the front end before pushing it thru the grommets...makes the job take about 5 minutes...and most of that was twisting and turning the left-hand-side return pipe.

9. Since Rusty had not welded on a tab to mount the right side pipe to the frame, I fashioned one out of 60 thou aluminum, and, using a short section of pipe to form it, added a radius so that I could clamp it to the pipe, and bent the other end to pick up the bolts in the frame to attach it. Photos in the web site.

10. Sent out and received back my new old throwout from Bean. Putting it back on the tranny in the next couple days. Looks good...and is quieter than the old one...

11. Continued, what seems to be, the unending task of cleaning off the engine.

Not much progress, but, it seems that things are still moving forward.

693R (coming together. Running out of things on the chassis...time to start moving towards the body...)

Date: Fri June 22, 2007 9:09 PM
Subject: Short 693R update: S2 heater hose adapters

They say necessity is the mother of invention. This is true with these cars at this point in some cases.

Anyway...was pondering how to adapt the metric-sized outputs of the water pump to heater core hard lines in the frame, which are 1/2 inch. Gotta love some of the adaptations that had to be made to get this car on the road, right?

Anyway...took the hose fragments I have off the engine...and hied myself off to that big orange universal supply company that seems to be on every other corner that doesn't have a Starbucks. Straight to the plumbing aisle. Stood there, mouth slightly agape...and wondered how I'm going to do this.

Necessity, right?

Anyway, no help in sight (and I admit that I think out of the box most of the time, so, straight-line thinkers are often frustrated in dealing with me...:)), looked at all sorts of options, none of them entirely satisfactory, but none entirely wrong either.

So, what did I come up with.

The larger sized hose is workable at 5/8" ID, the copper hoses in the frame are 1/2 OD. So...reducer. Has to be elegant, able to deal with the low pressure yet high temps of the engine compartment, and be easily workable.

Came up with, what is, for my engineering mine, an ideal solution.

2 brass hose barb adapters, one 5/8" with a female fitting, one 1/2" with a male threaded fitting, a little teflon sealing tape. Torque nice and tight.

The part numbers are, at least for the stores in the east coast, Watts P/N A-493 for the 5/8 barb to MIP adapter Watts P/N A-390 for the 1/2 barb to FIP adapter.

They're brass fittings, btw. Not light, but I think entirely workable. That they are reverse barbed mean that the hoses go on and are tight, and the clamps help make a tight seal.

(no pn for the tape,'re on your own.).

Now, to decide whether to run the 5/8 down into the crotch of the frame and put the adapters there, or, run the 1/2 up to the top of the engine, put the adapters up there (held in place with some judiciously located adel clamps) and use short lengths of 5/8 to match to the engine and heater valve. I'm thinking of the latter, since having multiple joints in an inaccessible place is inviting murphy to make a visit when least expected or wanted...and 8' of 1/2 heater hose is a little cheaper than 5/8" with the attendant increase in ease of maintainability.

I'll shoot some photos of the completed adapters in the next couple days.

Hope this helps someone else in the same position of wondering "what were they thinking????" when they built this system.

693R (with heater hose adapter questions neatly solved (I hope...:))

Date: Mon June 25, 2007 6:44 PM
Subject: 693R of many in the saga.. was a good Europa weekend. Lots accomplished.

1. As promised in my last update posting, I've uploaded a couple photos of the 5/8 to 1/2 adapters I made up from parts obtained at that big orange alternative car parts supply house. You'll note that I also used teflon thread seal tape in putting the thing together..figure a little extra protection against leaks. The other photo in the album is where they will end up on the engine as of now...just north of the 710 cap towards the firewall...I'm thinking, though, of replacing one with a ball valve to absolutely shut off the heater feed to the passenger compartment for the summer excursions; iirc, the lucas valve on the swirl pot is not known for its...sealing properties? I know these things can get a bit toasty, so...better (reasonably) comfortable than have a sneak heat feed to the cockpit in the hot weather.

2. Cleaned, sanded, and painted my drive shafts gloss black POR-15. Photo is in today's album; you really can't see it, but they look pretty good, if for a brush job. I have a spare set of shafts and stub axles; so, may do the complete strip and chromate and paint when it's time to do the bearings in a month/year/?

3. Decided, since it was pretty much completed, to put the closed cell foam on the backbone. 2 comments: 1. use the old felt to cut the proper holes and clearances for the new foam, and 2: there is a difference in contact cements to use for putting this stuff on. One does not have Methylene Chloride (which does a great job of pulling paint) and the other does. Liquid Nails brand of contact cement is great. No MC. Doesn't bubble the paint. The other stuff (Wildwood or some such...)does. Don't ask how I know. Needless to say, I ran out of the Liquid Nails cement...and spent the better part of an hour scraping off the other side on which I used the non-Liquid-Nails contact. Oh well. But, I managed to repaint (it didn't touch the primer..) the bubbled areas, found another can of Liquid Nails at the Sears Hardware store...and all is well. Results are in the photo album for today; the tape that you see on the edges and cut outs is a water/petrochem proof tape that we use to line fuel cell lockers in wings...and once you put it on, it ain't commin' off. So, I figured that sealing the edges of the closed cell is probably a good thing. The original felt is in pretty good condition, considering its age, btw. May use the long pieces in the cockpit for under-carpet padding for the tunnel, which needs some thickness so that the center console fits properly.

4. I spent a few hours at the airport with the body yesterday; figured it was time to do some work on the obvious holes in the body (I also have a line on a replacement body that is pretty much complete except for glass...trying to rearrange some things here, and thinking of that I trying to emulate Dave P?). Anyway...the two holes on the driver side tunnel where the clutch abutment should be were reinforced with 60 thou aluminum plate on the inside, 30 thou in the tunnel, sandwiching 2 plugs of gelled resin and a pile of chopped mat in the holes themselves. I back-riveted (shop head in the cockpit) the two plates onto the tunnel (the inside plate was formed to pick up the floor for about 1/2", too...and was riveted in 2 places onto the floor, using washers as backups under the car...POish, but, an entirely satisfactory solution, since the fibreglass in the early cars is a bit thinner than the later ones, especially on the tunnel, so, I figure a little reinforcement is better than none. No photos, but, it seems like it will hold great (the aluminum is 4x6") and be sturdy enough to pick up the shear load of the clutch cable, especially considering the abutment fitting itself has a steel back-up plate.

5. Sanded a bit more of the front nose out, vacuumed the dust up, and continued painting with primer and semi-gloss black. Looking good.

6. Also in the photo album are some shots of the Goodyear-branded hose radiusing fittings. I'm going to leave them as they are, but, I'm sure that if you wanted to use them but didn't want them showing, a covering of heat-shrink of the right size would do the job. Just a thought.

7. A fellow lister contacted me to let me know that his supplier had come up with the proper pressure plate (and he had a new disk...), so, all things being equal, I'll be able to put a NEW clutch on the engine this weekend, re-mate the transaxle, and, with the new suspension, get her on her wheels this weekend, a little over 2 months after starting the deconstruction of the original car.

8. Picking up the suspension, and, lo and behold, other stuff tomorrow.

9. I worked out a way to make up wiring grommets. The problem I found is that there are plenty of places to get grommets that will close metal panels; fibreglass is a bit thicker, and the thinner flange grommets won't work (the one on the firewall is mounted on a metal plate, so, it's not an issue here...). So...what to do?

I was digging through my box o'parts...and came up with the blanking plugs that are used to close off the holes in the cockpit footwells in back of the upper front pins. And...they have thick flanges. But, they're plugs, not grommets, right?

Not to worry...took out my selection of gasket punches, measured the size of the wiring harness, selected a punch one size smaller diameter, and punched out the center of the plug. Did a quick test at the airport...and it fits nicely in the body (Lotus only used, apparently, one size hole saw...) and seals tight around the harness. I figure I'll seal additionally with black RTV when I get to that stage in the process.

So, I have a handful more on order...:)

I know I won't make aspen...but, Indiana next year is a real possibility...:) Hope I'm not boring anyone with these long missives, but, figure whatever experimental knowledge I can add to the corporate memory will help someone else down the road...:)

693R (running out of chassis stuph to do...time to focus on the next things in the restoration saga...)

Date: Wed June 27, 2007 9:33 AM
Subject: Short update--693R

1. It rolled around the garage last night, albeit on only its front wheels, nothing tightened/torqued all the way. But it made it down onto its front wheels. With original NOS nave plates on the crappy beater wheels/tyres, and brandy new Spax on all four corners.

I put the back end back on the jack stands, straddled the backbone and went "Vroom". Just for effect, mind you...:)

2. Then back to reality. Left front upright is right at limit for negative camber, based on the gauge I have. Will the ghosts of that durn body never be exorcized? Looking at the breaker yard near my house (British Miles...) for a spit upright/axle. Might as well investigate and rectify now rather than down the road, so to speak. That, or the Brent frame is off, or the arms are off, or...I'm betting that the upright or axle was tweaked. Right side is fine. Yes, I know you're supposed to do this fully weighted...just took some prelim measurements, that's all.

3. Also picked up a brand new crash pad. Fibreglass (vice ABS), nice low-gloss hide of nauga, french seamed along the front edge...needs a little trimming to fit, but, the quick offer-up last night looks great against the nice dash I have waiting to go in to either the 69 or other body.

4. Temporarily hung rear shocks just to Get a Look at what the suspension looks like with all the fiddly bits on her. Still planning to hang engine this weekend. We'll see. SO just reminded me that we are visiting with friends saturday nite...which will be a welcome change.

5. On Monday nite, I presurized the brake system to see if all the downstream items would hold pressure. Rears did ok. Front didn't. Sigh. So...went thru all the connections, cleaning out with a q-tip the input fittings to the calipers (I had bead blasted the shells; it is possible, even with the plugs I put in both the fitting and inside end, that some glass grit got in there...), the ends of the bubble fittings, and tightened everything down tight. That's better...held 60 lbs air pressure for an hour, so, I figure it's good to go.

6. Still need to check/set preliminary toe. Have toe plates...will wait till she gets weighed down. Just putting it down on the front, sans a body, engine, seat weights, she's standing at a little under 8" under the front x-beam, which is less than the original frame/shock combo on the old one was WITH the body and engine in place. The perches on the front spax are all the way down, the rears are set with about 1/2" thread showing. Valving is set for full soft, OEM springs rear, 10" 125lbs front. I'm thinking this is a good starting point. Nothing torqued or final setting yet.

7. I may have a Whole Bunch of parts (minus those which are already spoken for...) available soon. SOme of them will have to be picked up...on a trailer...:)

693R (Vroom, vroom!)

Date: Wed June 27, 2007 6:15 PM
Subject: Photos posted

Well...needed to clean the garage out anyway, sweep the floor, rearrange the piles of tools, find the SnapOn sockets that had rolled around, figured I'd roll the frame out of the garage to get her out of the way whilst that was going on.

So, I did.

And, seeing as how nice it was, I just had to shoot some quick photos.

So, they're online at: under today's date for your enjoyment.

(and, spent an hour going over the front end. It seems like one of the steel wheels may be a little bent, which was giving me an off-kilter camber reading. I stress MAY, since I won't be able to tell for sure till I get her on the alignment machine to check for certain and do a full 4-wheel on her. So, figured it was beyond my competence anyway, the frame is still tres' light, nothing is torqued properly, yadda yadda...and the KB discusses this in somewhat gory detail. I'm not going to worry about it right now. But, I did torque, to about 2/3 values, the bushings so I can at least roll it around. That, in and of itself, took out some of the bogosity, so, I figure I'm going in the right direction)

And, yes, I did get the floor swept after spending time yacking with the neighbors about how the project is progressing.

(If you take a look back to, say May 2, you can see the progress from what I had to start with...)

All in all, a good day...even the throwout bearing went back in smooth and I found a workable clutch centering tool in the box of centering tools that Joe, my erstwhile instrument pilot student loaned me. Used for a dodge colt, of all things. Just needed one layer of heat shrink around the pseudo pilot bushing end to bring it up to the right diameter...the spline arrangement is the same.

So, with that, I'll watch some tube tonight. There's time enough to straighten the workbench tomorrow.

693R (Rollin'...Rollin'...Rollin' down the river....)

Date: Wed July 04, 2007 2:05 PM
Subject: Da 693R Update. Whaddaboutit....

Anyway, to those on this side of the pond, I do hope you are having a wonderful 231st celebration of our Independence. Take a moment and remember, if you would, those whose sacrifice enables us to enjoy the blessings of our land.

Just because I've been quiet on the update doesn't mean that nothing has gone on....:)

1. Retrieved, from Garden State Auto Electric, in Flemington NJ, my two SEV Motorola alternators. Brought both over and told them to make one good one out of the two, if possible. Well, I now have two rebuilt and functioning alternators. Both are putting out full current and treated to new brushes, new bearings, and all new diodes for the princely sum of 130. total for both. So, test fit one on the engine (should take a photo, but will do that later....); it looks nice (especially with the clean pulley and cleaned up rear of the engine...

2. Found, after a little searching around, a couple of completely overhauled front uprights/spindles/ball joints/trunnions/disks for a decent price from a lister. Only needed the left, but, as part of my philosophy of doing everything once, took both of them. So, I'll have a spare right side and the bits from the left that were new (ball joint/trunnion/bearings/disk). Once they come in, will check against the existing ones to ensure their trueness, and, will just swap out both sides (the disks were turned, so, they are in even better shape than mine...and the left on the car right now really needed to have the bearings retorqued...but, I'm finally exorcising the demons of that incredible hit the poor car must have taken there to spread the damage so far into the bits hung at that corner...)

3. Put the lotus alloy rims with a couple beater tires on the back hubs in preparation for hanging the motor this weekend. Let it down all the way; I temporarily attached the lower links to a spare tranny mount I had in my spares, tightened up (not torqued, mind you) the shock mounts and link bolts, and rotated the wheels to let the ujoints sag properly before putting it on the rear rubber. Durn thing is looking good.

4. Decided to attack the wiring harness again. As I go thru each termination, it is evident that a) this is an old piece of wiring, and b) retermination of the majority of the connectors can not help but improve the reliability of the system once I get it back into the new body. So...

4a) Took out my dremel and wire brush and, where applicable, buffed all the ring terminals for the grounds in the car. There are a goodly number of rings to buff. The ones in the front and engine compartment are exposed to the elements, so, they are tarnished pretty good. Cockpit not as much, but still can still take the buffing. Where the ring terminal were corroded in the crimp, I cut off the old terminal, stripped down the end, recrimped a new proper terminal on, and then hit with solder to make the joint gas tight as well as give a positive electrical conduction path. Some may argue that using a PIDG crimp is just fine and you don't need solder, but, I argue that the minor loss of flexibility at the joint is offset by the increase in conductivity. YMMV. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

4b. Lots of the female Lucar connectors on the ends of sensor wires had seen better days. So, opened up my box of connectors (the one from Ray, but, had restocked from Brit Wiring...) and started clipping off the old corroded and weak connectors and reterminating...starting with the left rear lighting ends, working my way back through the engine compartment harness. Replaced about half the bullets, most of the 2- and 4-way junctions (I have to pick up an 8-way for the ground in the center of the rear...), and what I didn't replace, I polished with the dremel/wire brush. Checked continuity thru all the connectors and grounds as I worked, both end to end and end to ground (gotta lift those shorts if there are any while it's out of the car...). Clean paths all around; most of the resistance (averaging about .02 ohms) is in the wire itself, not because of the connectors (which, before replacing, averaged .08 to .1 ohms thru the corrosion.

4c. Made it forward to the ignition relay/regulator/ignition coil/alternator wiring. A mess. First thing I did was to clean the wires with varsol to get years of crud off. That gave me the chance to sort the wires by where they went and loosely tie them together. Then, working on one 'functional' bundle at a time, reterminated each wire end with fresh connectors; the EXE lead for the alternator had been crimped and cut a couple times...not having the proper color/stripe wire, I made the decision to use some of the plain green 14 strand to fix the end of the cable. You can see in my photo album at under today's date the result. At least it's still green...:) But, the continuity thru back to the regulator end is a lot more solid than it was. By the by, if you are splicing wires, the proper insulation method is NOT electrical's shrink tubing. Make sure you have a stock of GOOD shrink: alpha FIT tubing is the best. The stuff at Shadio Rack is garbage with a capital G. I've used alpha for the longest time, built many radio and TV stations with works and is make for hard-service areas. Checked the continuity thru the alternator connections, the regulator bundle, and the ignition relay. It's all clean and green from here.

4d. Attacked the ballast feed, which has the double white wire. I could have spliced the existing wires together; however, there were multiple cuts in the existing insulation, and, there are two wires that go to/come off the input to the ballast is a feed, according to the wiring diagram, to the fuel cut-off solenoid on the solex. I don't have a solex. But, I also did not want to just hack a wire out, and figure that that wire may be useful some day if I'm diagnosing a problem with the voltage feed to the ballast. So, when I re-wrapped the bundle the other end of the wire would have been in, I just left the white wire doubled over inside the wrapping, with just the female end poking its head out. To complete the repair, I pulled out a length of 14 ga. Tefzel wire (teflon coated...aircraft wire, ok?), spliced it on, heat shrink, and a fresh Lucar at the ballast end. Also made up a new ballast-to-coil lead out of the same wire with fresh ends. No photo of that, but, it's nice.

4e. Then...for the time being, tie-wrapped all the bundles together by function. I'll revisit them with true lacing cord when I get the chance; I also test-fit the regulator and relay in place to ensure that the wiring will be neat and clean when re-installed. I'm going to use (and have stashed away) padded stainless adel clamps of the proper sizes, so, no more cheap plastic wiring clamps in the engine compartment or front nose...Do it right the first time and be done with it....:). Photos, again, under today's date.

5. I am wondering, however, about the leads on the back of the alternator as mounted. I know where the EXE lead goes, and the ground is obvious. However, if someone with an S2 could look...there are two insulated #10 studs on the back of the Motorola alternator. One at about the 7 O'clock location, and another at the 6. I'm going to assume that one is for the charging lead, and the other is ??? The drawing is not too clear, so, just so I know...which one gets the honking brown/white wire for the charging circuit (and what is the other one for...????). Appreciate any insight...:)

6. Received from a fellow lister a dust shield for the tranny. to the airport, bead blasted it, welded up a couple cracks (after stop drilling them...), ground down the welds, re-blasted it, chromated, and painted satin black. Came home, and realized that the bell housing is metric (duh...). Had a pile of #4/#5 stainless AN bolts, though. So...I know this heresy...but, drilled out the mounting holes to accept the 5/16x24 bolts on the bell housing and tapped, it fits nice and looks good. No more crud in the clutch...

7. In the next month or so, at Chez Boyle, will be having a Body Setting party, so, anyone in the Philly area who is interested in helping place the new/old body on the restored frame/running gear of what will become registered as 693R, please let me know. I'll supply the grill, steaks, salad, and pop.

All in all, progress on all fronts. I know I'm going to have a body on blocks in my driveway (the neighbors all stop by at some point and glance guy down the end of the block is doing a vette in his driveway...everyone is a good sport, though...) for a few weeks while I get the old hacked-apart wiring out and do some plastic repairs...but, the light at the end of the tunnel is NOT as much an oncoming train as it was in April. Keeping my fingers crossed to actually turn a wheel by the end of the summer or beginning of fall. Whatcha all think?

693R (looking good in the 'hood...)

Date: Sat July 07, 2007 3:52 PM
Subject: Not going to be.

Long Winded.

But...IT'S IN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Even cranked it over with jumper cables to the frame and starter. Damn thing even turns in the right direction. Such a deal.

1. Went in smoother than I thought. Everything fell to place. Ran a tap to clean all the block holes, new flat and star washers all around, torque wrench at the ready, tubes of permatex thread lock for the flywheel, new o ring and gasket for the cam.

Tightened it up nice and tight. Torqued where needed. Tranny just slid on like...well, use your imagination...:)

2 hours from engine on stand to tightening up last bolt in the frame. Spent the rest of the day putting stuff on it so I could check the fit minus the body in the way, which is why stuff like the carbs, hoses, etc are all in place. They'll come off when I mount the body. It's just there to give me some self-confidence that it is moving in the right direction and if things have to be adjusted (such as the stand for the swirl biggie, I think it looks ok like that...:)), I would rather do it without fibreglass in the way.

Roll pins. Who in the &^%% came up with that method? Mine are tight. Had to put the 4 into the 7 and then drive both at the same time so one did not push out the other. What a goat rope. Someone should be taken out and beaten severely. But, there is no side-play. They're tight. Everything is as it should be, according to the Good Book of Europa Truth (workshop manual and Jerry's knowledge base...)

2. Hooked up shift mechanism. All 4 forward and reverse are where they are supposed to be. New joints and setting thing per the manual help. So does Steve's bushings. I mean it. It just pops into gear. Effort is high, but positive (and the gate is nice and short...).

3. Ran the heater hoses and cut to length; where they run thru that channel on the front of the engine, I used a piece of hose, cut longitudinally and tie wrapped as a cushion. Nice.

All in all, if you follow the manual and common sense, it falls together just like they intended it to.

4. Have lots of shop rags. Bandaids. Cold drinks.

5. Loaded the back down with 320 lbs (8 bags @ 40lbs per) of mulch. Rolled it by hand up and down the driveway since the left side rear had a LOT of positive camber. Loosened up everything. Tightened it back up to 75%. Better, but not perfect. I'm not going to worry, since a) body is not on, adding its weight, b) no seats, so, no 150lbs per seat, and c) no weight on, all in all, the suspension is NO where near road settled yet. But, it is a lot better...about 2 degrees positive camber unloaded. I'll wait to settle it when I get the rest of the car together. Front loaded down with same number, looks good. Can't wait till the new uprights etc come in. Joe, the fellow in one of the photos, checked the toe and said it was fine for a 30 mile drive to his shop to set the thing up on a rack the way Chunky intended. 4 wheel, thrust line, the whole bit.

I'm pumped. It was a good Europa day today!

Of course, there are cruddy photos from the Treo, but they are on line at under 07-07-Engine_In directory.

Those going down the same road: it CAN be done. YEAH!

On to the next part of the good for next weekend?

I said I wasn't going to be long winded. much to say. So little bandwidth.


693R (chassis looks like a car again, and on 4 rolling wheels.

Date: Wed July 11, 2007 8:46 AM
Subject: Update, part ???

A good (and not so good..) day in Lotus Garage Morrisville... 1. Worked out the rear suspension divergence from reality. discovered a quick method to set the length center to center for the rose joints:

Primary assumption: the non-adjustable lower link bushing center-to- center is as per the manual. The IS some divergence that was built in to compensate for the manual construction techniques and variances in the jigs, so, MEASURE to the standard THEN adjust as necessary...

1. Assuming the above, you need:

2. Assemble the lower link with the bushings, inserts, AN8 bolts, and use the E clips to secure (they're just a jam fit on the opposite end of the bushing from the head...use a washer under it, too..) so that the heads of the bolts are on the same side of the lower link. The idea is keep the bolts in the bushings centered and straight.

3. Thread both rose joints onto the rod. What you're looking to do is set the center-to-center distance of the adjustable to the same distance (18.85"/478.029mm) as the stock setting. You will know that you've adjusted to the right length when the stock and adjustable links are parallel, and the rose joints are evenly 'unthreaded' to leave the same amount of exposed threads. Trial and error is what's going on here. Set the distance...drop over the bolts...when you hit the sweet spot, it will just drop right on and slide all the way down to the bushing.

4. This sets your starting point. Tighten down the jam nuts, install, drop, and check camber.

5. I found, to remove the aprx 1.5 degree positive camber on the left, that I had to lengthen (makes sense, right, considering the lower link is pushing the bottom out...and the top in...) the left side aprx 1 turn at both ends (to keep the rose joints evenly spaced on the rod.

Result, with 350lbs of weight? Well...with my angle finder and level conpensated for the floor level and same air pressure on both sides...both tires are at (within the accuracy of my gauges) 0 degrees camber.

I can live with that...

On the other hand...

Received the 'overhauled' front uprights. Excited. Man, you could feel the tension (Think "Paradise by the Dashboard Light" by Meat Loaf).

Long story short: what the heck are people running into to bend uprights? Putting the new left one on is about half the error of the original 693R demonic spindle. But still negative camber.

To heck with it. A arms are good. Measured them out. Pins are straight. New bolts, new bushings, new ball joints, new shocks. Distances check out.

But, the visible angle of the ball joint is the key to determining whether or not the upright is tweaked. The visible angle of the ball joint fixing nut should have it and the stud end angled towards the OUTSIDE of the car. If it is not, or is straight, it means that the slight bow towards the outside of the suspension in the upright between the hub and the ball joint mount has been either straightened or deformed. It's a very subtle tweak. I'll try and shoot some photos of a good one vice a not-good one when I get home tonight.

Going to just put a brand new one in. That will leave me with:

An extra set of:

Moral of the story: if it's tweaked, sometimes it's just better to buy new. At this stage of construction, it's false economy to NOT have it as close to, if not exact, to what the book calls for. I am close to not having ANY qualms about touching ANY part of this car...

(But, I have extra parts...and hold no animosity to the vendor...they may or may not have known or ...but, live and learn...)

So, as I said, some good, some not-so-good. But, even the not-so- good serves as an object lesson and increase in the knowledge store, right?

693R (still moving forward, even after a step back...getting the rear in closer compensates for the ongoing story of the front, right?)

Date: Thu July 12, 2007 10:36 AM
Subject: Fun With Dick and Jane

Not really.

Delving into the wonders of suspension, though.

When we last left our intrepid host...he was pulling out his rapidly greying hair (fortunately not receeding...) looking at the vagries of the front suspension, camber, bent uprights, and bogus used parts.

1. Bit the big one. Picked up 2 brand new uprights. Nice. Not rusted. Brought them home...and started to transfer parts. Meant that I had to pull down the old/new/rebuilt(?) left front. Brought over to bench, disassembled grease seal; it was supposedly 'rennovated'. Right. Punched out existing stub axle...removed 'greased' trunnion. Assembly is the reverse, right? First, make sure you put the left hand threaded trunnnion on the left side, right on the right. Screw all the way in (fresh seal, I hope...), then back out. These are pretty accurately threaded, so, you want to have free movement through about 60 degrees, which means you unscrew it only about 1/4 turn to get to the first 'working' position...

Then the bolts thru the backing plate to catch the steering arm. 27 ft/lbs. for each of the steering arm to upright bolts. 75 for the stub axle. (I set to the top end when I do these things...).

Put in grease seal (I know I'm going to be one short somewhere along the way here...that that's ok...), packed inner bearing race with grease, plopped it down on axle, some more grease on race inside hub, dropped that into place, greased outer bearing, in she went, pushed the greasse that squeezed out back into bearing, big washer, castellated nut...tightened to 6 ft/lbs per manual, then backed off one flat. NO play. Grinning from ear to ear. New cotter pin, set per standard practice, on goes the grease cap. Note to self: get two new grease caps and braze nut on the inside so taking it off is not such a pain (basically, screw in a #10 PK into the tip and use a claw hammer to pull out using one of the wheel studs as the fulcrum...).

Put on new ball joint. Tighten as much as possible.

Back to the car. Mount it back up. Leave caliper off. put road wheel on.

Drop to floor.



Question of the hour: am I being too retentive about this?


Am I going down a blind road here? Or plowing new territory?

Another solution that was suggested was to SLGHTLY open up the thru- holes in the ball joint (go up one size...), which would give me some lateral adjustment capability, and increase the torque on the bolts when tightening up. I'm kind of loathe to slot either the upper or lower A-arms (being of that hard-to-find unobtanium material) and tack weld washers in to locate; the ball joint is a sacrificial item.

Obviously easier with the nekkid frame to fiddle around with this to get it close. But, if this is something that is actually a characteristic of the frame when bodyless and riding high (I'm not a suspension expert, just your average retentive computer geek...), so, any suspension gurus that want to chime in, I'm all ears...and apologize for wasting y'all's time...:)

Add before anyone asks: yes, I checked the dimensions of the a arms and the like before starting the build. They're straight. Cross beam is square.

Date: Mon July 16, 2007 1:54 PM
Subject: 693R update

Nothing really.

NOTHING over the weekend? Is Boyle's cheese slipped off his cracker?

No. Did a couple of things, though, which are tangental to 693R's resurrection (hosanna!)

1. Traveled up to give more $ towards the trimmed body. Picked up a couple extra bonnet and hood, and steering wheel (with a beautiful OEM horn button. Polished that one when I got home...looks good, and the wheel was in good condition. Cleaned up the aluminum, and the original one is hanging in my office, and the new one nicely installed on my repainted/cleaned steering column.

2. Bead blasted/chromated/painted the OEM air filter. Some PO somewhere along the line had put on an Eidelbrock air filter...I'm going to machine up some thin 50 ot 60-thou adapters/gaskets and remachine the Renault air filter to fit. Although, I understand that the air filter elements are NLA for this particular application, so, this may be more of an excuse to bend metal and drill holes than to actually get something working properly. Or are the filters available, in which case, this will hide the Weber...or give a more "Stock Appearance".

3. Completed repairing and redying the passenger seat. That had been kind of put on the back burner back in april while the more important things had been tackled...but, now that the majority of the underbody is done (or at least in a state where putting the trimmed body on is the logical next step...), I figured that tackling the more mundane things were appropos.

4. Did the rough shaping of the fibreglass crash pad to fit the dashboard. They come rough, but covered, but the cut out areas around the binnacle and glovebox still have to be worked properly. So, I did the first swag at such, and I have to admit, that, fitting together dry is Really Nice. I mean it. Durn. Like and advertising brochure.

5. Straightened out the garage. That meant finding a number of boxen to put in the useable, but replaced parts I have accumulated. These include steering arms, ball joints, 2 complete front disk/bearing sets, D washers, 3 straight front axles, etc etc etc. The yard sale in Morrisville will be sometime in October....:)

6. The One Who Must Be Obeyed absolutely ordered that the yard shed be organized. So...10 years of collecting 1960s Honda motorcycle OEM parts, Lotus Europa parts stretching back to 1981, yard tools, motorcycles, and tools got sorted, arranged, and placed properly. Wow. Space for more junque.

7. Watched a couple dvds worth of "Moonlighting". Nothing to do with Lotus, but, it got durn hot out there.

8. Oh, yeah...while 7, rang out the rest of the wiring harness. It's all clean now. Rewrapped, new terminals, no shorts. The moment of truth will be in a couple weeks when I start putting things back together, right?

693R (waiting waiting waiting for the body...).

Date: Tue July 24, 2007 12:18 PM
Subject: 693R update

Been kinda slow. Not much to do/etc whilst waiting for this friday (picking up the trimmed body to deposit on my driveway...).

But, in the interim:

1. Picked up, from RD, a proper set of adjustable lower links. 4130 steel...heavy stuff. One of the things that putting these links in, especially if you are not using high-misalignment rose joints, is that the angle of the lower link will be at the limit of the ball joint rotation and if not shimmed properly, you will bind the joint. There are solutions, but the discussion of that will come later...the second is that the type of rose joint has to be one that will fit in the space alloted next to the lower shock mount. You really DON'T have a lot of space there. So, a thin-cross-section joint will have a higher space along the longitudial plane of the joint, and will NOT fit properly. I have photos that I'll put up of some that do, and some that don't.

The angle you're going to end up with is almost at the 9-10 degree misalignment angle that a standard rose joint is going to allow. There are a number of ways of solving the issue without allowing the joint to ned up in a bound or tight fit situation:

a) shim with AN (not SAE) washers. For the lower links, you're looking for AN960-816 washers. The cross-section of these is a lot less than SAE 1/2" fender washers, which means that, in use up to about 6 or 7 degrees of tilt, they work fine. But, the metal cross- section is a bit thicker than the flat land on the joint ball, so, misalignment further than this is going to interfere with the ball-to- socket fit.

b) I went to my local typical heavy american metal speed shop, and picked up a selection of 1/2x3/8 and 1/2x1/2 coned spacers. These look like cones with their tips cut off; you mount the wider end on the chassis and the thinner end up against the joint. They give you the full 9-10 degree swing for the ball, and do not bind.

But, spacing these in both the tranny mount and lower bearing carrier is the key.

I found, by setting up the center to center (using a tool I picked up last week...which is used to do just this...) at the stock 18.85 inch (actually 18 7/8 is close enough...2.5 hundreths off...) length per the manual, that in order to get the center of the joint where it belongs on the bearing mount (centered relative to the shock mount), you will need, from the bearing mount out: 3 AN960-816 washers, 1x 1/2x/12 cone spacer, the rod end, a 1/2x3/8 cone spacer, 1x AN960-816 washer and the nyloc nut.

The other end, which is located up at the tranny, will not take 2 1/2x1/2 coned spacers. So, you have to resort to using 2x 1/2x3/8 cones (points towards the heim), and shim front and rear with the AN960 washers to give you, at least on one wheel, the camber you desire (based on how far back/front you locate the joint...). Any further adjustment will be made up by adjusting the links.

(Understand that I'm going down this road due to the lack of congruence between my left and right rear wheels...).

I'll shoot some photos and get them up on my web site.

2. Started running the hose lines. I am using stainless braided lines, new aeroseal clamps, a fresh, cleanable gas filter, and when the body gets put on, enough adel clamps to keep the flammable stuff away from the exhause (as opposed to how it was run before I started down this road...BOOM!)

3. Looking at the suspension in the front...realized that there was no way I was going to be able to set the official AN8 nylocs to get the proper thread peeking out. I saw Ray had the half-height ones on sale this month, so, as part of yesterday's cache-filling expedition, got a complete set to do the front properly. So...removed all those wonderful full-height AN nuts...and put on the half-heights...and got the proper thread exposure. Tightened up to about 50% of final torque...

4. FINISHED with the wring harness. All new ends where needed, rang them out (both for continuity and to check against ground), laced the bundle up, put it away for use in the next couple weeks.

5. Dipped into the stock of side lights, disassembled them from their rubber mounts...polished, with Rolite, the chrome, took my dremel with a cone brush and freshened up the bulb sockets, re-terminated the wires with fresh bullets, cleaned up the grounds, little dab of Corrosion-X in the socket...and tested the operation. Need to pick up one bulb; may see if there are LED replacement equivalents...:)

6. Finished roughing in the new crash pad to fit around the glove box and instrument binnacle. Left lots of extra fibreglass in the center to pick up the mounts, but, figured I get to the major part of the carving where needed.

7. Made a reservation with UHaul to rent a pickup and full trailer for friday (taking a personal vacation day...).

8. Removed the gauges from the dash, and polished up the bezels and glass. Put them back in...looking good.

9. Packed up the spare tach I have for Nisonger. Not even going to fiddle around with it...just get the durn thing working...

10. Spent the weekend last participating in the 16th annual reenactment supporting the Camp Olden Civil War Roundtable (a discussion group centered on Trenton, NJ). It was a target-rich environment for this tired Reb. Had a great time, saw a lot of old friends on both sides, carried the day Saturday...was routed on Sunday. That's the way it goes...:)

Kind of in a holding pattern right now...but, that will change with the arrival of the new body...Oh, yeah, picked up the replacement windshield trim (corner clips to fit are on back order...but have reserved a set...should be in in a week or so...) too yesterday.

So...stuff will spool up rapidly once the body gets here.

Looking for volunteers, end of next month...:)

693R (The light at the end of the tunnel is NOT the oncoming train...)

Date: Sun July 29, 2007 7:45 AM
Subject: Update

got a bunch o'stuff done posted on the web site.

1. Continued stripping interior and engine room. Cut out (no delicacy here...a pre-po had cut out a large swath of harness to splice in who know what) a bunch of garbage wiring, leaving just the far back harness (for the lights...) and the front portion (the solenoid and gas tank) portions. Pushed the stripped wire harness back into the cockpit. I'm going to completely strip the harness....and separate the wires out, so, if folks want or need some specific wires, and they're in good condition...let me know...and saved the wire hangers for the reinstall of the overhauled harness from 693R.

2. Started the process of soaking the hinge pins in Aerokroil. Figure, what the hey. Maybe I'll be lucky.

3. Sanded down and primed, with high-build primer, the original rear deck. Couple cracks I missed...but, that's to be expected. Noted them in the logbook, and will deal with them when it goes to paint. My purpose here was just to get a single color and primer layer on. Nothing fancy.

4. Stripped the steering wheel out, upper column, and lower column. More pieces for the parts box.

5. Picked up resto supplies from the local auto supply store. More gelled resin, cloth, mat, etc.

6. Noted that a large number of rivets along the bottom of the shell are missing. Nothing new here, right? My friend, who I'm helping with the late model, handed me a big bag of rivets he uses to tie fibreglass panels together. I hadn't even thought of them while helping out...but, figured what the heck.

They have large heads on them, 3/16 shank. White. Paintable. So, in for a penny, in for a pound...and they work well. Yes, they are not C. But, the pop rivets the factory used certainly were not the best solution, either...which was one reason the TC/TCS went to those trim pieces, because most of the S2s I know have this problem. Photos in yesterday's directory on my site. They stand out, but, when painted, (I'm going to go with painting this area black...) will pretty much blend in. I think they look ok. And they do tie the shell together.

7. Started taking apart the lock mechanism on the two original doors. Need them for this shell; one doesn't open from the outside and one doesn't open from the inside. All the rods are there and hooked up with the proper retainer clips. I know the original doors work ok. So...dip into the parts stash...and build one out of two.

8. Squirted some more aerokroil on the door pins. They looked dry. Will go up to the airport and pick up some AN5 bolts and stuff to try and pull sometime this week. Also cut up some 30thou aluminum for reinforcing strips (there is a crack along the body flange for the bonnet, almost perfectly aligned with the badge. Put a piece of 30 thou in to back it up, flush rivet it, fill the crack...move on...) and figure I'll need some plate to build straps to hold in the engine room patches)

If not...out comes the hacksaw and angle grinder.

9. Used a motorcycle battery and a pair of clipleads and went around the car, and check the lights. Couple of side markers (back to the side markers...oh well...) need replacing, but I have a few of those.

10. Measured what I need to cut out of 2667 in the engine room.

11. Squirted the body mount pins with Aerokroil. Most of the intereconnects between the frame and body are disassembled (still to do: front closure plate (yes!), dashboard foot, heater hoses, fuse block is off)...can't think of much else. So, time to start divesting the frame of my body. Will need, once I get it up in the air, to replace the front mount for the clutch cable; rust has reduced the original one to about 2/3 of the original thickness...and the one from 2667 is pretty good (blasted, chromated, painted....the drill....), so, will just cut the old one out and put in the new front brace (the brace for the throttle cable is STILL in the car...:))

Not bad for one day's work, eh? It's spritzing out today, don't know how much I'll get to, but, all is moving in the right direction...

693R (going back together...)

Date: Sun July 29, 2007 8:57 PM
Subject: Sunday Update

Can't keep out of the garage, even if it was teeming earlier this afternoon...but, managed to get some work done.

1. It's amazing how fast you can pull a dashboard, disconnect it, and get it out of the car when you know you're not putting that particular one back in (don't worry, dan, it's ok....but the wiring isn't...:)). I think it was something like a half hour from start to pushing the wires out of the way into the passenger compartment.

And then, I thought to myself "Self? Wonder what that dashboard from the original car will look like in here?" (Knowing full well that I also have to pull the windshield to replace the crash pad, too). So...went into the stockroom (otherwise known as the basement), pulled the original one and console....and put it in. Took some photos too. They're in my website, under the 07-29 directory. Nice.

2. You know that little lever on the door lock? Found out what it did...and how to get the door open when the outside handle doesn't work right. Not pretty. Nothing, however, that a little resin, cloth, and filler didn't solve. Never mind. Let's not go there.

3. However, there was a crack on the flange for the bonnet at the front. I guess someone somewhere along the line leaned on the front...and cracked it. to the airport, and cut a strip of 40 thou, 1" x 24". Grabbed a handful of #3 cherrymax countersunk rivets, too.

Measured off the rivet spacing, punched for center, drilled with a number 30 drill to get the holes into the aluminum. Then laid the strip on the visible side, and clamped to hold the crack closed. Used the holes to drill thru the body. Mixed up some gelled/short strand reinforced resin, coated the strip with it, then applied to the backside of the flange. Couple clecos to hold in place...and proceeded to rivet the strip in with the countersunk cherrymaxes. Waited for it to fire off, and then ground out the crack, and then filled with more shortstrand reinforced gelled resin. Need to sand back to level, but, for now, it seems to be solid.

No photos of the procedure, but, I'll take a shot of the patch after it's sanded back.

4. Some PO somewhere along the line had drilled a number of holes through the masonite bulkhead. Those were filled with the same filler. No holes in the bulkhead now (except for the grommeted wire race). Tomorrow, I'll work on the destroyed bulkhead on the lower driver side...sometime this week, will install the sound padding I obtained for the other body.

5. Pulled out most of the wiring harness back to the wheel well. Nothing left to do but pull the rest through tomorrow into the cockpit and then start restringing the overhauled harness.

693R (going back together...didn't leave the dash in, by the's back in the storeroom....:))

Date: Tue July 31, 2007 7:13 AM
Subject: Update 7/30

Well...spooling up for the next-to-last steps in the process.

1. Yeah, got the passenger door open without too much drama...have to fix the outside handle and how it works, but, I'm not too worried (unless I have to drill through my repair again...that will tick me off...:()

2. Finished pulling the old wiring harness out. Big pile of sad, old wiring on the driveway. So...went down into the storeroom and opened up the box with the overhauled harness, brought it upstairs, and started stringing it through the car body. Front to front, rear to rear...and it went in just swimingly. Had to drill out the rivets holding the front wheel arch shield so I could fit my hands up in there to pull the harness though, but, all in all, got it to the proper places without too much drama (or divots taken out of my hands and forearms...). The cockpit stuff is still in a pile; only the front bonnet wiring has been properly secured at this point; have to run by the speed shop for wiring hangers/#6 tinnerman nuts (speed nuts), and some more large head pop rivets.

The rear was gently pushed through the large grommet in the bulkhead and strung around the compartment. Hey, everything fits, and aligns in the proper location. What the heck? I guess it was made for it. :) Clipleads, fuse, motorcycle battery to the switch leads, dremel tool to polish the bullets...hooked up the wires for the headlights, tail lights, side markers, to the battery and ground leads. Got a couple of bulbs to replace or grounds to clean up, but, generally, everything lit up. Even the headlights (albeit dim...but, hey, it's only a 10 AH battery out of my CB750...and the fuse didn't blow, so...

3. Hit the front close plate bolts with aerokroil; got one out, the other 4 will have to wait for today's ministrations after I get home. But the stubborn frame/body bolt at the left rear, which had resisted my efforts saturday, which was subsequently soaked with aerokroil, came loose (almost too easy, I was prepared to get out the angle grinder to make short work of the nut...) and was put aside.

4. Turned to the front attach points...those came apart very nicely. One is longer than the other...strange...but, one bobbin is set down in the body mold deeper than the other...hmmmmm....doesn't look like anything's cracked or displaced. Not going to worry about it, just put the two aside with the other bolts from the body attach.

In case you're counting, that's right, the only ones left are the 6 #5s at the front of the Y. Those got soaked with aerokroil, too. Fantastic stuff. Don't recall it working that well before...relearn something new every day.

Pile of parts is getting deeper (again) in the garage.

5. Removed the lower steering column. Into the storeroom. That's 3 lower steering columns I have now.

6. Removed the heater hoses. I rebuilt the original heater, so, the core will come out and put aside. Have new hoses, but, the ones I took out look to be in good condition...will set aside as spares.

7. Resoaked the door pins with aerokroil...from the top, bottom, inside top, and inside bottom.

Did I say the pile of parts is getting deeper?

Planned for tonight:
I think that will keep me busy for today.

Have to start thinking of how to lift the body and get it high enough to roll the new chassis underneath it. Yeah, at that stage...the mind is always trying to stay 3 steps ahead...

Question that is still out there, though: Do I have to/Should I remove the intake/exhaust manifold to enable dropping the body on?

I'm going to remove the gearshift lever and anything else (swirl pot, etc) that stands obviously in the way, but...was wondering if it was just ok to take the carby off (cover the intake with tape to keep stuff out of there...), twist the coolant return pipe close in to the engine and go from there...

Was also thinking of removing the tires and putting the frame on low dollies to minimize the amount of 'luft' required for the body to get the frame under it.

Thoughts and observations about the process are more than welcome...:)

693R (Have some photos from last night, but was too lazy to log into the server and upload them...).

Date: Wed August 01, 2007 6:47 AM
Subject: Great News, aka Today's Update

Progress is measured in the increments with which projects move forward.

1. Kroil is an amazing substance. Bolts that held the front closure plate on unscrewed like they had teflon threads. :) In the pile for bead blasting, chromating, and painting.

2. You know those 6 bolts which were left on the front of the Y that were the last to hold the body on? Well...they're out.


I lifted it about 6" off. Looks funny. Nothing cracked/creaked/etc.

Set it back down. Thought about how to finally separate it and suspend it. Got some ideas, and some great input from a couple fellow travellers on the list here who I pinged offline. But, that's for this weekend (hey, I always wanted my own cherry picker...:))

One note, if you still have the front mount for the throttle cable (a lot of cars don't...), it is screwed through the fibreglass to the frame. And, just like the screw that holds the fuse block in, they have to be removed (there are two of them, common head sheet metal screws) first or you will crack the fibreglass..

3. Continued stringing/attaching the wiring harness to the car. Tackled the engine room harness. It's all fitting back in like it was made for the car..:) I am using new #6 screws, tinnerman nuts (the flat sheet metal speed nuts...) and, temporarily, the original plastic clamps to position the harness. Going by Lawrence Engineering tonight to pick up the proper Adel clamps in the proper size to do the job correctly, and will replace the plastic clamps with the padded metal ones over the next couple days.

4. Marked out the position of the ignition relay and new regulator on the sidewall of the engine compartment. Am thinking of ginning up a flat mounting plate for them rather than just screwing into the fibreglass; would allow me to ground the plate, which would make it easier to ground the regulator, as well as build a shield over the relay/regulator to prevent water ingress.

5. Patched, from the wheel well side, a multitude of holes that had been poked thru the engine compartment sidewall. Shortstrand reinforced gelled resin is an amazing substance. Smoothed it down well; figure the undercoating will hide a lot...:)

6. Vacuumed out the cockpit so when I kneel on the floorborard, I don't embed various hard objects that have been stripped out of the body into my knees. Sprayed semi-gloss black along the angles and footwell as was originally there (I guess, to minimize the contrast when (not if) the carpet would slip).

Still didn't get to the airport to obtain what I needed last night. But, have a student this afternoon, so, will get to that this evening.

All in all...not bad for 4 hours of heads-down concentration on the project.

693R (I can actually imagine myself driving her...before the next millenium...)

Date: Thu August 02, 2007 10:34 AM
Subject: Update Du Jour

Didn't get much accomplished last night due to spending an enjoyable couple hours instructing a former private pilot student (now my IFR student...:)) in the proper break-in procedures of his recently top- overhauled O540 Lycoming. We just had to fly for a couple hours to ensure the rings were properly seated...with an indicated airspeed of 160 MPH...gotta keep it up at 2500 RPM and 25" of manifold pressure, you know...:)

But, did get some stuff done when I got home...which means that it was truly a full rich day. Work, play, and Europa.

1. Stopped by Lawrence Engineering to pick up some new padded Adel clamps in various sizes to fasten the wiring harness in the engine compartment and nose of the car. I know, the originals were plastic, but, I kind of like the high-tech look of the Adels. So, using #6 sheet metal screws, #6 cad washers, and the proper type tinnerman speed nuts, re-strung the harness in the engine compartment. Neat, accurate, and STRAIGHT (I have this thing about messy wiring...was taught how to wire by and ex-Western Electric tech...). Running out of tinnermans, so, this morning put in a stock order to aircraft spruce for more of the necessary #6 and 8 hardware to finish the wiring installation properly.

2. Ran, and fastened down in the cockpit, the backbone bundle. Ran the door leads and hooked them up to the window motors, and tied the bundles (door and interior light leads) that run out to the access tubes from the center of the car together. They'll get attached, as designed, to the back of the dashboard when that goes in.

3. Ran new 1/4" hose for the windshield washers from the cockpit to the nose. Ordered, from Moss, the proper Tudor hanging bag and made a note to pick up an electric washer pump. Since the SOVY unit is NLA, I'm going to use the wiring for the SOVY, which I did run, as the B+ feed to run the pump and the test pushbutton as the on-off switch to squirt the windshield. Not "C". But, better than abusing the somewhat fragile and NLA wiper switch.

4. Marked out the area, and did a preliminary drawing, of the plate to which I'll mount the ignition relay and regulator. I still don't know whether I'll go down this path, but, I'll see if I can get it to fit without stretching the authenticity of the engine room.

5. Vacuumed out the cruft from the engine compartment (especially down in the wells in back of the seat. Lots o'junk that seems to collect back there. But, you all knew that...:)

6. Measured out the size of the replacement panel I have to make for the lower driver side bulkhead. Will transfer that to the marine ply I picked up a couple days ago...may tackle that particularly hideous process later today.

7. Jiggled the body a little to see if it was still unattached to the frame...:) Yup. It is.

In typical multi-tasking style, there are a couple of things that I'd like to work on the side, but need some input on:

1. Does anyone have a drawing of the fiber closure pieces for the nose of the car? I know that they were originally made out of some resin or asphalt-infused cardboard (like the wheel arch shields...); I'll probably just form them out of 30-thou aluminum sheet. While I can take the measurements, if someone has gone down this road before, that would be easier.

2. Along those lines, does anyone have drawings of the front and rear wheel arch seals. Same comment applies...:)

I've received a few good suggestions from the list about raising the body...any volunteers from the philly area that would like to contribute a couple hours this weekend (saturday afternoon/sunday?)...I'll supply the steaks and carbonated move the body onto the new frame?

replies off list...:) even if you're not from the Philly area and would love to participate...:)

693R (No snappy comment right now...)

Date: Sat August 04, 2007 5:58 PM
Subject: Update 08-04

Long day today...but, got a lot done over the past few days that have brought the project along nicely.

1. Was fiddling around after releasing all the bolts a couple nights ago...and said to myself..."Self...wonder if you can actually get the body up in the air a bit...". After considering all the great thoughts passed on to me by a couple out the floor jack, and proceeded to lift the body at the jacking points, with a floor stand at the ready to push in to support. Shazam! It's up a whole 6 inches...not much, but, enough to see that there is a lot of surface rust on the frame that dropped down onto my driveway...but, for now, the body is free and in the air. I'm going to get it up a little higher and support it longitudinally under the outside edge of the floorboards so it doesn't sag and also so I can get to fixing a couple of hole in the floor where the snap fittings for the original carpet were.

2. Picked up yesterday, from RD, a new Pertronix igniter and coil. I had done a bunch o'wiring in the engine compartment in running the harness and cleaning up the wires, so, figured while waiting for the body setting party, I'd replace the existing Bosch coil that was in there with the Pertronix 3 Ohm high-voltage unit, and straighten up the ignition feed and the like. Since the Pertronix needs a 12v feed, I am going to use the wire that is wyed off the + side of the coil that used to feed the cutoff solenoid for the Solex carb as the B+ to the igniter module in the distributor, and the existing white/black that used to go to the points as the black wire feed to the igniter. Good thing I didn't loose that 12V wire when redoing the harness, eh? There's also a photo in the directory of the initial wiring I did to the relay and can see the old coil, as well as the completed install.

BTW, Ray has some nice new polo shirts available with the original Type 23 logo on with gold embroidery...:) Added one to the collection...stretching back to the original navy t-shirt from 1981...

3. More Aerokroil on the hinge pins and bushings. Think I'm going to wait till after I have her on the road for a little before tackling this depressing task. But, want to keep encouraging the rust to release.

4. Started working on the carved-out sections in the engine room. 2667 donated the parts (I can hear the grimacing...sorry, guys...made the cuts cleanly and neatly, so, whomever inherits the body somewhere along the line will be able to bring it back...either that, or I'll make clips available....). Cut the parts oversized, and came back home. Using a fine grit air grinder, evened up the parts so there was a decent match and the joint lines were open enough to allow for proper filling. Back-sanded the smooth side (in the wheel well) for the glass matting to bridge the seam. Mixed up some gelled resin with a slow hardener, and worked it into the woven glass cloth, and applied it with a fibreglass roller. I didn't want to drill holes that I would have to fix later, so, I used a couple thru-panel clecos that I had kicking around to align the pieces, and a couple welding-grip clamps to align the flanges in the engine room. When the resin fired off (over about a half hour...) and hardened completely, I then mixed up a batch of short strand resin/filler to close the seam. Fired that off, and then sanded both sides down to remove the high spots and contour to match the existing body.

The results (low res...again, hate the treo camera...) are in my website under today's date (08-04). I don't think it came out too bad (especially when painted, and the smooth side now has undercoating on it...hides a multitude of sins....:)) Also in there is a shot of the other side (which I didn't get to today...but will tomorrow...but that will be more extensive, since the glass around the rear bobbin is cracking apart, so, the repairs will extend over a larger area...)

5. Took some time to straighten up the garage. Seems with concentrating on the body, that the chassis is buried under stuff. Got an envelope in from AutoMat out on Long Island with carpet samples...the low end is too cheap...the high end is too thick. So, I think I'm going to go with the DynaPile (mid grade) which seems to be a good compromise and closest to the original fittment(Not going for wilton wool...even a friend that just finished a RR Silver Ghost didn't go THAT far....:))

6. Oh, yeah, the photo in today's album that shows the body up is NOT so I can put the off-road tires on her...Just threw that in to prove that it is possible for one person to work the body up off the frame.

More tomorrow...need to fire up the grill and make some pork chops for myself and my patient companion (who stated she can't wait to have a ride in the Europa when it's finished...she used to love driving the, I guess I'm going to have to introduce her to the turbo's older brother from the right seat...:)). is the link to the album.

693R (Pretty soon, I'll run out of things to do on her...and will have to drop the body on...what am I going to do when she's actually on the road?

Date: Tue August 14, 2007 8:48 AM
Subject: Update du Jour

Well...have a list of folk who are interested in the glovebox and door labels; whilst not 'C' in the strict sense, they are accurate...but understand some folks' desire to have an exact replacement. I'll see what I can do, but, no promises.

Along that line, if someone with a TC/TCS AND alloy wheels has the second label in their glovebox with the tire pressures...if you could take a digital photo of that and forward it to me (along with the measurements...), I'll see about getting that in the pipeline.

I've also sent to my artist the emission plate for the engine room...mine is pretty bad. I'll see what he thinks; this may be a non-starter, but, after 4 coats of semigloss black paint in my engine area, putting in a really worn engine plate seems to be a bit...well...

Anyway...on with the update.

1. Tying up loose ends in preparation for the body drop on Saturday. My stepson, fellow pilot and shop owner Joe Hann, my Sgt Major from the reenacting battalion, and myself will, with the assistance of a next-door neighbor and a cherry picker, attempt to remove the body from the remnants of the old frame, roll the old frame out of the way, and then bring the new chassis into the sunlight for it's last glimpse of daylight unencumbered by the fibreglass covering of the body. I'm pumped. In preparation for the blessed event, I've:

-Removed the intake manifold, carburetor, swirl pot, battery ground cable, fuel hoses, front heater hoses, transfer tubes to radiator hoses, handbrake lever (tying a long piece of 40-thou safety wire to the front clevis...), pushed the speedo cable down into the backbone, prepared to remove the shift lever (less height...).

-Don't laugh...I buffed and waxed (3 coats) the frame with simonize. OK, laugh. I was bored. There's not much left to do, though I keep wondering if I missed anything. But, there it is. A waxed frame, suspension, and chrome hubcaps.

-On the body, I have all the mounting bolts taken out for the bonnet and boot lids, have all of the carpet out, all of the vinyl, the heater box (which means, yes, I have a second one...:) I have a lot of second and thirds of stuff right now. Got to sort it out...when I'm finished...). The doors are not off, I keep soaking them in kroil and hoping, but, I think next week I'm going to be doing the old hacksaw and angle grinder trick...all in an attempt to lighten the load as much as possible. The lights are still in, the nose badge is off (I have a collection to choose for each day of the week, if I want...:)), and I'll probably remove the bumpers for the transfer...they are dead weight that are easy enough to remove (new bolts and plain (non-nyloc) nuts...).

I'm figuring, at this stage, it's pretty much lift, roll the old one out of the way, roll the new one into its place, and set. I have the long jobber drills for the front and rear mounting locations; I may cut some long AN6 bolts and put them into the dash base mounting holes to locate those bobbins and use it as the reference mounting, since they are the only ones that have threaded inserts and can't be drilled/backed up with fender washers to mount the body.

2. Because the engine will block access, Sunday (a most gorgeous day on the east coast...) I completed the install of the bulkhead multi- layer closed cell, aluminized mylar covered insulation. Used high- temp/high tack contact cement, nice even thick layers on both the installed dynamat and the foam side of the insulation. The cement went off quickly (80+ degrees outside and low humidity...), and I was able to correctly position and mount the insulation without too much trouble. Nice and smooth, and only minor trimming (around the cable mount for the cross-chassis bundle...) was required. I extended the insulation down the lower sides in back of the seats; the driver side is pending my marine plywood repair of the bulkhead in this area. Once that is accomplished, then I will permanently glue the insulation up into this area too. While I was in the area, however, I did take the opportunity to vacuum out the bottoms of the wells, and a couple of coats of semigloss black applied to clean up the area.

3. I continued to strip the original (for this body, not 693R's) harness for wires that were needed...the starter soleniod (white/red) wire that runs along to the starter was a bit charred and, went to the removed harness, found the lead, unwound a couple feet of wrap, and cut a good section out to splice in. Using good FAA advisory circular techniques (write me for the cite...), I spliced the extension on, soldered cleanly, and a couple layers of shrink wrapping completed the repair. On the free end, a fresh female lucar connector and sheath, and tested thru to the ignition switch. .02 Ohms, according to the Simpson.

4. Casting about for something to do, I espied my new Pertronix igniter sitting there on the pegboard. What the heck...I had already installed the coil (have to remember to grab a couple terminal boots for the + and - connections...), so, decided to install in the old went in just as the instructions said. Only thing I did notice is that the distributor body isolation grommet they said was on the power/trigger cable leads wasn't there. A little high- temp silicone RTV made up for that (and smoothed out properly...). Looking at the great wall-chart for the wiring, I noticed that there was a 12V B+ lead that was unused (was for the carb anti-run-on solenoid) that would serve quite nicely as the B+ for the pertronix...and, to boot, it was running in the same stub harness as the white/black point-to-coil wire. :) Only thing was how to connect; I used a couple of waterproof male/female spade lugs, polarized properly, to allow the connection to be made.

And took the original points, condensor, isolation block, and thru- bolt, put them in a baggie, and will put in the trunk Just In Case.

I'm assuming that I should check the timing, etc, but, there is really nothing else to set. So...we'll see.

5. Did I mention that I waxed the chassis? Bizzare.

6. There were a couple of BIG holes that were cut in the floor of the front plenum to allow the mounting of a set of Wildwood pedals by the previous owner. Not a big deal to fix (here's where I mean that fibreglass is a forgiving medium...). Cut out a plate of 30 thou a bit bigger than the entire area that was cut through, drilled peripheral holes evenly around it (3 on each side, one in the middle...). With my orbital sander, roughed up even more the area in the footwell, and then, with the plate on the outside, used the holes in the plate to transfer the holes to the bonnet floor.

Then, mixed up a slow batch of gelled resin, and applied an even coat to the plate, and embedded chopped strand mat into the resin, rolling it in evenly.

Took the plate-cum-fibreglass out to the car, sitting in the bright hot sun, and proceeded to screw the plate to the inside of the footwell with #6 PKs (sheet metal screws) to cover the inside of the holes. (this layer is somewhere between 1/16-1/8"). It took about a half hour to fire off, at which time, I removed the PKs, and, yes, popped the aluminum plate off the patch.

This still left the holes in the floor of the bonnet plenum, albeit covered with a layer of glass on the inside...

So, mixed up a batch of shortstrand filler, laid it into the holes (catching the #6 holes left for the previous step...), pressed it in and smoothed it well, and let it fire off.

Went on to other things while this was going on...came back an hour later, and, with my orbital and 150 grit, buffed down the filler in the plenum floor. hmmmmm....pinholes? No problem, poly stopper filler, left it proud of the floor...and went inside to watch M*A*S*H. Came out an hour later, again, and buffed that down with 220 grit.

Smooth. Shot with some high-build primer...and, I think there's a shot I took with my phone that I have to put online...but, you can't tell there was a 2" diameter hole and a 1.5x1.5 square hole over the driver footwell. :)

7. If anyone is contemplating changing to a european-style ignition switch in an S2 Federal...I found that you have to use the S2 ROW pin- out for the ignition switch to get it to work. IOW, if you're using the standard Lucas dash-mounted ignition switch, the pin numbers on that switch don't track the pin numbers on the back of the column- mounted switch. So, for your reference, here are the assignments I traced out with the help of the Simpson meter:

Dash Ignition Switch Connector #           Wire
               1                           Brown/White Stripe
               2                           2 solid White
               3                           White/Red Stripe
               4                           Solid Red (radio)

Switch Connection/state                    Connections
               ACC (Full Left)             1 - 4              
               OFF                         None
               RUN                         1 - 2 - 4
               START                       1 - 2 - 3

I've rambled on long enough. I have a couple questions, but, to avoid overloading the server, will put them out later.

Anyone in the area that wants to stop by on saturday...let me know beforehand...steaks on the barbie, salad on the table, and cold beverages in the cooler...:)

693R (tying up loose ends...ash and trash...)

Date: Wed August 15, 2007 8:25 PM
Subject: New Photos Online

in my website under today's date (08-15...)

Shots of the 4WD jacked-up body (can't wait to put those knobby big tread tires on her...:)), the bulkhead padding/insulation/?, another shot of the repair I did a couple weeks ago on the engine room wall, one of the radiator relay wiring, one of the bonnet plenum floor repair (before sanding back and priming...and one


Making progress every day.

1. Straightened out the wiring in the nose: put proper adel clamps in to replace the plastic ones originally used, re-wrapped the cable bundle where needed, replaced cable ends as necessary with new lucar or bullet connectors, multi-connections, etc. Also ran new bigger ground wires to a common connection (which you can see as part of the mount for the radiator relay)...and have a large-gauge wire to run to the frame when the body gets dropped on.

2. Ran the throttle cable (did I say that previously?); came up with the padding from the original car that had the cut-out for its placement...that will make it a lot easier to put it in place properly.

3. More aerokroil on the hinge pins. I think it's a dead issue...getting ready to take out the sawzall again. I'm getting good at this...:)

4. Cleaned out the car of assorted ash and lighten the load even more.

693R (no snappy thought tonight....:))

Date: Fri August 17, 2007 8:54 PM
Subject: Rubber meeting the Road's almost the day.

Straightened up the garage so I can get the chassis out.

Got as much out of the car (cruft, etc) as I could.

Got the straps set on the front 2x4 to hook up to the cherry picker.

Removed anything that is sticking up far on the new chassis so nothing gets hung up.

Got a couple of long undersized 3/8 tool sticking in the cockpit bobbins to locate the chassis.

Got the handbrake cable safetied to the front x beam.

Coolant return pipe is tied up as high as I can get it.

Front and rear wiring is finished, laced in, clamped down.

Engine compartment and nose painted in 4 coats of semi-flat black enamel.

Have a couple extra long 2x4s ready to insert into the back to provide a handle for the helpers to lift the back high up.

Bonnet and boot lids are ready to be removed on a moment's notice.

Ran a drill through all the non-threaded mounting holes to clean them up, make sure they're free, and ready to go.

Last hit with the torque wrench at the suspension, setting was 60% of final torque. Enough to drive it, enough to allow it to settle, enough to get me to the alignment rack where I can set torque at static height, align, etc. and not fall off the side of the road.

Noticed that I still need to shim the rear axles more. Will do that at the shop. 30 miles is not going to trash the output...movement is very minor (< 1mm. Should be 0...will take care of it..)

Have 8 nice steaks in the fridge, couple 12-packs of soda, chips, salsa, salad, potato salad, cole slaw, hard cider...for the post-drop lunch.

Full tank of propane.

What have I missed? Probably over-planned. That's ok.

Would appreciate good thoughts and positive mojo from all for tomorrow.

Also put up some photos under today's date, as a last look at the chassis before it gets covered.

Will have, I'm sure, more to report tomorrow.

693R (going to be united as a rolling chassis and body in the next 24 hours as a complete car for the first time since April deconstruction started...wonder how it's going to go. Oh to the rack...)

Date: Sat August 18, 2007 10:53 AM
Subject: SUCCESS!!!!!!!

IT'S TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!

Photos upcoming......

Went together smoothly. Started at 9am. First bolts in at 9:45.

Can y'all see the smile? No boat nose, either.


693R (together again, naturally...)

Date: Saturday, August 18, 2007 6:54 PM
Subject: Photos up under today's date.

Lots to relate. I'm still putting it together. Preliminary observations, however....

1. Right side, unladen, is about 3/8 lower than left. I get in, and trim height is same on both sides. Normal? From the KB, I'm thinking it's within bounds. Not going to worry about it yet. Too much else left to do.

2. All the bolts lined up with just a little persuasion. The threaded ones at the base of the dash were used as the reference; I used a couple #3 philips screwdrivers (which are a hair under 3/8" diameter) thru the bobbins when putting the body we let the shell down, if the drivers moved up, it wasn't we jiggled the body until they dropped down. Wiggled them a bit, dropped the bolts in thru the dash mounts...torqued them down...the rear one were lined up, dropped the AN6s into them, the front required a little dressing with a 3/8 drill. bolts in there. The ones in back of the seat, however...well, all 6 will have to be drilled to be backed up with fender washers. Oh well, I guess these were all drilled ad-hoc at the factory.

3. Took me about an hour to wire up the engine room. Everything was right where it belonged.

4. Replaced the manifold gasket when I reinstalled the manifold. Tightened it down, torqued tight.

5. Hooked up all the engine coolant hoses, new hose clamps all around.

6. Installed carburetor. Hooked up mechanism. Will do cable tomorrow.

7. Hooked up starter, battery cables, grounds in nose, cockpit, engine room. New ring terminals, star washers on both sides of the terminals and nylocs on the bolts.

8. Bought new battery, battery tray, hold down. Installed on blocks to raise off fibreglass and wiring harness. Installed battery. Didn't hook up yet....yet...

9. Reinstalled shift lever and shoulder bolt thru bronze bushings. Tightened properly, works just fine...:)

10. Reinstalled handbrake lever. Took about 20 minutes. Found a trick that works. :) Involves 40 thou safety wire, cinder block, a needle nose vice grip, and some anglo saxon metaphors. But, it only took 20 minutes.

11. Hooked up ammeter. Checked all the connections that weren't hooked up. They weren't shorting to anything or each other. OK...halon extinguisher at the ready, connected the battery.

Turned the key on. No smoke coming out of anywhere. hooked multimeter to ignition coil input.

Checked for tranny in neutral.

Turned key to start.

Motor turned over. 12 V at the ignition coil.

Motor turned over. :)

I have witnesses.


Straighted up the driveway. Closed her up for the evening.

I would like to thank Dan Costello for coming over and pitching in (and discovering the insides of Europas from up close and personal...), along with a cast of 5 more folks who enjoyed a post-drop steak and goodies lunch.

I'm serious when I say that the whole process, once we had the engineering and movement in place, took all of 45 minutes.

A good Europa day.


693R (solid, 6 bolts in and tightened down, engine turns over, no smoke let out of harness, and NO BOAT NOSE.)

Date: Tue August 21, 2007 8:27 AM
Subject: wow...where do I begin..

What a couple of days. Went from a garage full of chassis, bits, a body on blocks out front (which the neighbors took in good humor...) to


Yes, folks...Saturday evening, after all the events of the previous 12 hours, it turned over, belched out some smoke, but, for the first time since march of this year, the hearty engine for 693R turned over, and made engine noises.


Anyway...on to the update.

1. Flushed out the original radiator (which was working ok when I took it out...the second one is at the radiator shop being recored and having the baffle plate bulked up (thicker gauge metal) and cleaned up. Trimmed the RD front transfer rubber tubes, straightened up the wiring, installed the radiator, original fan, new hose clamps, and tightened her up. Installed the rebuilt heater core, new hoses, clamps, and the like. Went to the back, and added the initial charge of antifreeze (50/50) plus water wetter (redline), and let it settle.

Bled the system. I had forgotten how much a royal PITA this is. Back, forth, back forth, add more antifreeze, back, forth....and no assurance that you have gotten the last bit of air out of the system.

2. Ran all new fuel lines to the tank, replaceable element fuel filter, return line, and line to the carb. Mounted to the wires crossing the bulkhead (loosely...don't want to obstruct the wild need for gas for this powerplant, right?...:)). With the coil off, turned the engine over...good oil pressure (50 lbs), and the filter filled with gas and no leaks.

3. Installed new control cables from NAPA for the heater and choke. If you're interested, they're the universal control cables, 5'. A little long, but, I mounted them on the return coolant pipe on stand-offs, and they aren't too much too long. I figure they'll give a little when the obscene torque of this motor moves it..:)

4. Installed the master cylinder, hooked up the bundys, torqued to spec, and filled with castrol LMA fluid. Opened up all the bleed nipples...and let it sit.

5. Measured and cut down the downpipe, and installed the muffler. I know it has some loose baffles, so, will deal with that along the line, but, for now, it will quiet the engine down.

6. Laid out the dashboard on a thick pad and proceeded to rewire the panel. First, on the bottom, is the door motor control. Clamped in place, and pre-ran the wires thru the holes for the window motor switches. Took out all the gauges, and offered the panel up to the car (with a big pad over the gearshift knob... to provide a place to lean it forward. Proceeded to work, from right to left, in hooking up the gauges, grounds, and panel lights. Fans, hazard (gotta figure this out..) fuel, temp, oil, order, mind you. The KB large chart is invaluable guys, I have it mounted at door height right next to the car...then the lighting switch, and the big gauge wiring. Strangely enough, the multi connectors for the column switches end up where they are supposed to be...:) Anyway, will be attacking mounting the harness up to the back of the panel today....

7. Mounted the pedals. One thing I noticed, is that there are differences in the moldings. Either that, or the mount for the floor pedals had been modified to make up for the repair layers of glass in the original body, because when it was mounted (with #4 fender washers between the bottom of the mount and the floor (which will let the water out...rather than letting the metal soak in it...), the clutch pedal was leaning a lot further back than the brake. Hmmmmmm....not the way I remember them.

So...measured how much the floor would have to be built up, selected the proper number of AN960-416 washers and an AN4 bolt...and drilled thru the floor right under where the little front stop comes forward, inserted the bolt, and tightened it all down.

This moved the clutch pedal to be in the same lateral plane (actually about 1/4" more rearward than the brake). Installed the cable, and set the freeplay to the manual point y'all should be aware of, since the cable that Lotus is supplying is the A074- number rather than the 054 equivalent...the ferrules at both ends of the sheath are Just A Little Bit bigger than the original cable. So, you will have to open up (gently) the front mount and drill the motor mount rear mount out to 3/8" to get it to set properly.

8. Put in the Renault handbrake lever. Hooked up to the lever, and mounted to the front mount. One way to help mount this...take a #5 (5/16 bolt) and proper side fender washer. What you're going to do is form the fender washer to catch two of the flats on either side of the bolt head. Think how the washer is folded over the rear axle nut....I found clamping in a vice, and tapping the sides over with a body hammer work well. Now when you insert the bolt thru the bracket on the handle, the washer will help keep the bolt head from turning. It's just a matter, then, of sticking the bolt thru the handle rear mount, up thru the bracket, another fender washer, the proper size nyloc...and it's a 2 minute job (rather than one that annoys you...).

9. My good friend Joe (who helped on Saturday) came over to help bleed the brakes. That took about a half hour, and we have pedal. Not the best, since the rears need adjusting as does the handbrake, but, We Have Pedal. No leaks. Not even the calipers that you're not supposed to split but were. If I pull the handbrake on about 1/3 of the way. the pedal is nice and firm, which, to me, means that the rears are pretty far out, and joe agrees, so, i'll get to that today.

10. Engine still ran rough and wouldn't idle worth a damn without the choke on. Well, the PO had some strange hook up for the crankcase vent. Not anymore; it was creating a massive vacuum leak. So, plugged the leak, just for a quickie, stuck a rubber plug in the side of the T connection where the vacuum leak was, and, son of a gun, the thing settled right down to an idle of about 900 rpm, and smooth as a gravy sandwich. Joe tweaked the idle mixture for smoothest progression off idle, and shot a quick timing light check of the advance at 1000....with the petronix, it was stable rpm at 900 and just a hair under 8 degrees advance. Nice throttle response.

11. Nothing left to do, but take her outside for the final carb check (since I was taking care of the mosquitos in my, put the steering wheel in, started her up, in went the clutch, 1st gear, slowly let her out, and, DROVE HER OUT OF THE GARAGE!!!!! only 10 feet. But, it was under her own power. :) Backed it in too...slight lip to get over to get into the, I helped joe with reverse...:)


Got a lot of stuff to do today (I'm on vacation this week, so...have the house to myself...):

Why don't the rear lights work? Sigh. Time to pull out the test meter, since the front markers do...probably a bad connection somewhere (yes, the grounds are in their proper place in the back...).

Finish installing the dash. I'm replacing the 4 chrome screws at the top of the dash with stainless. They look good (well, better than the chipped chrome I have now...). They won't rust. What more could you ask for?

Install the steering wheel and connect up the rat's nest underneath.

Seats? Maybe.

Call the insurance co. to get a card for it...then off to the MV office for plates.

Anyone want to take book on whether I get her around the block before Saturday?

693R (The phoenix arises...and is running...and is moving...and is a Lotus Europa again...)

Date: Tue August 21, 2007 4:40 PM
Subject: Pictures Tell the Story

I'll let the pictures tell the story for this afternoon. for today's date.

Here's a hint:

I didn't push it. It didn't do it by itself. I needed fuel, since I was down to about a quarter tank.

So, all things being equal, I figured what the heck.

a little under 5 months is all I'll say.

More cracking open a nice Cabernet and putting my feet up.

693R (still some things to work on...blinkers don't blink, horn doesn't honk reliably...carpets, interior work....DOORS!!!! never ends.)

Date: Tue August 21, 2007 9:02 PM
Subject: Home movies

Well...Karen took a movie of me coming back from around the block...just to prove that it DID move under it's own power. Albeit with expired license plates from out of state (and I live in a neighborhood with a town detective across the street, a county prosecutor 2 doors down, and the sheriff in back...who've all helped turn the odd wrench or two with me...). Going to get the PA plates tomorrow...which will force me to do the windshield, since I'll have to replace the vin plate for state inspection...:).

Anyway, the URL is: (Archived at [JJ]).

It's a 32 mb, on my 3mb up/7mb down DSL loop...anyway....proof that it wasn't a big rubber band...:)

693R (rollin' down the road...wind in my hair...oops, wrong mode of transport...need to adjust rear brakes...low pedal...but fully bled air in on order....).

Date: Fri August 24, 2007 12:33 PM
Subject: Update 08/2

Hokay...time for an update....

1. On the road. Have 200 miles on her...and things are getting sorted out reasonably well, I think. Have noticed a couple *features* of the car...:

- the cross-gate 2-3 shift is a bit vague. I've found that you can't rush it (it ain't a vw gti...), but you do have to be positive...2...N...cross gate...3...and it will work pretty well. Same on the downstroke. I guess 23+ years out of the type, I have a few things to relearn.

- Need a muffler. Bad. Some baffles are a bit loose. It's the original one that came with the beast, so, somewhere in the next couple weeks....

- Clutch adjustment has a direct impact on the smoothness of the gear change. No surprise there; I had it a bit too loose (about 1" at the pedal slack...); set it up to the 1/8" called for at the rear lever, and it seems better.

- Brakes. Sigh. No leaks, everything is ok. But, I think it's time for rear shoes...they looked ok when I built the rears, but, I'm almost at the end of the adjustment. BTW, my handbrake works fine holding the car on a slight incline (2%...big deal...). On the list.

- Doors. I hate them. But, at least they're the least of my problems right now. Thinking I'll just cut these out, and rebush the original 693R doors (which are clean and the bobbins ok...) and swap them out. Might as well have 4 different colors on the car, right? Hey, I won't mind if people who see it don't...guess I can always sand them down, prime them, and it won't be too bad.

2. Did the alignment as best we could yesterday. Question: does anyone have the conversion for the inch measurements that are in the manual translated into degrees that are used on the new alignment machines?

Along that it as best we could, using fractional degree measurements.

Total toe in is .5 degree. I have .15 degree positive camber on the right front. Everything is tight. May have to loosen up, pull stuff together with comealong straps, get it closer. Either that or????

rear? half degree neg camber. .1 degree toe out total. At least that is what we think the machine said. Kind of hard to figure out, since we didn't have the inch to degree conversion...

So, if anyone has the min/preferred/max range for the settings...I'd be an attentive audience...

Bottom line, the car tracks straight, isn't obviously dogtracking (joe followed me to the restaurant, bought him dinner for his efforts...), and drives hands-off. But, boy, is the steering sensitive...:) I'm thinking I could have gone .75 degree total toein on the front. the rear? I'm still ruminating on that.

3. Oil leaks:

- Right side engine. Seems to be around the oil filter/dip stick/pressure sensor area. Couple drips right now, some splatter on the top of the frame at that side. May dump some UV dye into the sump, clean the side off and go for a ride to verify from whence it came. - Reverse switch. Sealing washer at the base has a little line coming out of it. Nothing so far from the output shafts, though. Probably just jinxed myself with that post, right.

That's all so far.

4. Changed gear oil. Put in fresh Castrol GL-4 spec 90 weight. While underneath, right? Also shot some into the trunions for good measure.

5. Carpets came in from AutoMat. Dynapile set, including the front plenum. Look nice, go in with some trimming, but, better than bare fibreglass. Nice binding on the edges, and come complete with padding. Foot pads bound on. The whole magilla for the cabin. Working on it piece by piece. Black, of course...and, yes, will shoot photos when finished with a decent camera.

6. Checked the bleed on the coolant system. Still holding, and checked last night for HC in the coolant. Nothing. So, added a bottle of water wetter, and ran it good on the way home. Rad fan comes on about a needle high of 90 degrees, fan relay I put in works the treat running off the original otter switch relay. Going to save that otter switch, I know. Have 3 of them though...:)

7. Remounted (took off, polished the sealing surfaces and shot with paint, and remounted) the tyres, and balanced. Now, you can go 70 and not shake the fillings out. Nice. That and the alignment make it pretty good to drive.

Other than that, thank goodness I'm going on vacation. :) Or else I'd spend next week fiddling around with her.

If anyone has any suggestions as to how to seal the base of the dipstick...or any other suggestions...:)

693R (putting quality miles on her FINALLY)

Date: Wed September 05, 2007 9:18 PM
Subject: Update du jour...

Well...between the frenetic week after the body drop and now...interspersed with vacation (still peeling...) and back to doing hard time at work...Still not finished nor will it ever are some updates to the ongoing saga of 693R.

1. Noticed, after some long drives (and I have about 350 miles on her now...), that there was some oil leaking out of the right side of the engine...puddling on the horizontal ledges of the casting. Thinking it was the crankcase pressurizing and blowing oil up the dipstick tube...I did an old trick from the hangar and attached a spare airspeed indicator to a tube and ran the engine...barely moved the needle...but, not convinced, I put a rubber cap on the tube, dropped the dipstick in the trunk...and kept an eye on it., I figured I'd clean off the side of the engine, dump the UV dye in, and go for a long ride after, I tied a rag to the end of a long stick to get into the crevices down that side...and when I pushed it down, the PO's right angle adapter for the oil pressure sender tipped right over from the was not even hand tight.

Sigh. So, took the whole assembly apart, put some pipe thread tape on both the right angle (If i put the sensor directly into the block, it rubbed on the rear longitudinal shift tube...) and the sender, and screwed them back in...not just hand tight this time.

Left the rubber cap on the dipstick tube...reconnected the wire up, finished cleaning off the side of the engine/axles/coolant transfer pipe, shift mechanism, frame...and went out for a 25 mile drive.

Dry. So, I took off the rubber cap, and put the dipstick back in. May take it to work tomorrow (47 miles...full contact sport on the PA Turnpike...) and see if the fix works. I'm betting it was the fact that this fitting was not even hand tight in the block...just one of those things that were overlooked, I guess.

2. Noted that there was a slight gas smell occasionally when I turned off the car. So...investigated the carb fittings, tank fittings, etc. What I found was that the big brass plug at the top of the weber carb that provides access to the carb gas filter was not sealing as well as it could have been against the paper washer. Took the thing apart, flipped the washer over, and retightened well. Started car weeping of gas (which, being over the exhaust manifold, is probably a Good Thing, right...??? ;)).

3. Still not sure that he alignment is right. I'm going to borrow a set of toe plates and camber gauge and tweak it to see if it can come in a tracks straight...but, tell me, since it's been a long time....does this car actually react instantaneously to steering inputs? It's almost surreal. With 2 degrees caster, it's not heavily self-centering (almost non-), but, for instance, giving a quick tweak to the right to get on a deceleration lane for an exit is more imagining the steering wheel to the right than it is actually moving the control. Neat. Is that what this is all about (not being naive...just trying to compare to my rememberances of my previous Lotuses...europas, elans, elite, esprit...). The left rear also has more neg camber than the right (about 1 degree vice 0 for the right...I guess we didn't really set things up properly a couple weeks ago...time pressures...), but, that's what the adjustable lower links are for...I'm thinking, for road use, that getting both to neg .5 degrees is probably a good initial setting?

4. Tightenend up the driver door hinges...seem to be, for the time being, holding nicely, though it is not centered in the opening, but, the new OEM seal I got from Ray back in March seems to be sealing th door OK. Still have to cut out the old steel pins and put in the stainless kit, but, now there's not a 1/2" gap. Windows still rattle (there's no felt strips in the frame...), but, it closes well.

5. Put the door panels in. Now, I don't itch from the fibreglass when I get out of the car...and it finishes it off.

6. Need to pick up some #5 washers to space the seat up a bit off the new carpeting so I can easily move the seat back and forth.

7. Still shooting the problems with the hazard flasher system. Turn the switch on, and the 4 signals outside come on, the warning lamp comes on inside...steady. No blinking. Flasher unit? That's what I'm thinking. Thoughts from the gallery?

8. Adjusted the clutch a little better (using a 1/8" rod to set the free space at the tranny end between the through bushing and the arm...); engagement is now about 1/3 of the way up from the floor versus about 1/4 of the way...and gear changes are a lot smoother.

9. Took Steve's advice, and put thread tape (since it was out) on the drain plug for the tranny. Which means I did capture the tranny oil in a good clean container, cleaned off the plug, put thread tape on it, tightened it up nice and tight, and replaced the gear oil. Another leak to check in a couple days.

10. Checked the bleed on the cooling system. Still good, level is fine. Installed a relay for the rad fan, will wire it in this weekend, I hope.

11. Picked up some sheet aluminum to build the closure plate for the bottom of the front plenum. Measured, bent to the proper angle using a home-made brake (2 2x4s c-clamped together, and leaned on it...:)), and cut out the access holes for the radiator pipes and brake MC/lines. Used thin weather stripping around the edges, chromated, painted semi-gloss black, and installed rinuts in the holes in both the body and along the parting line between the two halves. Stainless #8 machine screws...and, it does make a difference (like we all knew...) in the coolant system performance (5 degrees plus or minus) cooler. And, it doesn't rattle or make any sort of resonant noise, so, for now, I'll go with what I have. Still need to put bottom plate on, but, I'll do that when I get the front up in the air when I get the toe plates (clearance to the bottom, btw, is 6.25". Car is NOT boat nosed...looks a lot better.

So...while busy with vacation, a reenactment last weekend in Monroe NY, and recovering from not having to get up at 5am...progress was made in the last few days on 693R. Still warming up, besides the door rehanging:

Date: Mon September 10, 2007 8:26 PM
Subject: Updated photos

Are online at under 09-10.

Therein you will find 2 shots of the aluminum covers I gin'd up this weekend to close off the front plenum instead of the asphalt impreg cardboard that was originally used. They weren't that hard to make; the most difficult part was getting the holes lined up so that the metal did not contact any part of the rubber hoses (for obvious reasons...:))

It's attached to both the body and each other with #8 stainless machine screws connecting with the like size rivnuts under the seam and on the body flanges. The backside (chassis side) is backed with rubberized underseal (to cut down on the resonance, if any).

You'll notice that the top hose is protected with a layer of fiberglass reinforced rubber baffle seal; I have some edge molding (we call it alligator molding) that I'm going to put in instead when I get a chance that should work better. There's at least a 1/2" clearance...can't be too careful, though.

I will probably use the same baffle seal material around the oval opening for the bottom hose and around the brake MC close it off even more.

Noticed that the running temps are pretty much about 5-10 degrees lower at the end of an extended run than with the plenum open to the face of the frame. No surprise there, right?

I'm still investigating the bottom end pressurizing and pushing oil up the dipstick. I have it sealed off right now; that's not the permanent solution in my mind.

I know that the car originally had to have a PCV valve; I also have a nipple on the bottom of the intake that is plugged right now to cut down on vacuum leaks...does anyone have any idea (or photos) of what was originally connected there? Or suggestions of how to somehow use the intake dynamics to relieve the pressure? Thoughts?

Spent a hour or so installing the driver door inside upholstery. Just wanted to have it in place...and cut down on the itching on my elbow from the fibreglass.

Also transferred the original plenum plate from 693R to this body. Saving the 0004R plates; may go thru international title or some such agency to get a title cut for the car...the plates and good title must be worth something, right? Will get the windshield VIN plate changed when I pull the windshield to reseal it in the next couple weeks (and put in the new glare shield...:))

550 miles since 22(?) August. Still some adjustment/tweaking/etc to do. But it is running and I'm enjoying reacquainting myself with the Europa formula. looks darn good in the garage (even if it seriously needs paint...but, considering what it needed in April...I'm thankful for what I have so far...)

693R (moving smartly under its own power...and getting dialed in to my satisfaction)

Date: Wed September 19, 2007 6:36 PM
Subject: tires, etc. me thinking about what to

  1. After getting released, came home and dug out of my box o'parts the PCV valve that I knew I had. Cleaned it in varsol.

  2. Disconnected the blanking plug from the lower isolation block on the intake manifold, and removed the short stub of 1/2" hose from the feed from the valve cover that was teed off to both the aircleaner and, initially, the intake (sans PCV).

  3. Cut the proper lengths of hose, and connected the PCV valve to both the base of the manifold and the T connector in the valve cover vent.

  4. Started the car with some choke; and let it warm up. Idle settled right down to aprx 800 rpm.

  5. Took a spare turbo boost/vacuum gauge, hooked it up to the end of the dipstick, and proceeded to rev the engine (when the water temp gauge was showing some temp...); I got about, depending on the rpm, between 1 and 2" of vacuum. Disconnected the gauge. Note: the figures are estimates, but close from what I could see.

  6. Closed up the boot, and proceeded to take it for a multi-mile high speed blast down US1 here in the north philly area, with the dipstick where it belongs rather than the rubber cap I had previously replaced it with.

  7. Idle was fine, throttle response was as it should be, responsiveness of the engine was just what it has been.

  8. Came home, popped the boot...and no oil spray from the dipstick tube to coat the right rear Y of the chassis (if only the tranny was as problem to solve....).

So, according to what I discovered, how does a PCV valve work?

You would think that the PCV valve would flow more at high vacuum situations like at idle and less at lower vacuum situations like pulling a hill. It does the complete opposite. Actually, if you take one apart, you will see that a spring-loaded plunger inside the valve is tapered on the vacuum side that fits into the bore of the body. At idle or cruising when the vacuum is high the plunger is pulled farther into the body. The taper reduces the opening and the amount of air flow through the valve is reduced. Under acceleration or heavy load, such as pulling a hill, the vacuum drops. There is more blow by under a heavy load producing more vapors. In this case when the vacuum drops the spring pushes the plunger, opening the port up for more air flow when it's needed the most to remove the extra gasses. Many of the early PCVs were designed for close to vertical operation using gravity on a heavy plunger instead of a spring to modulate the valve opening rather than using a spring.

So, I'm assuming, based on the advanced technology of our engines, that having it mounted just in line at a 45 degree angle probably isn't the, will get the mount set up and try and find some proper sized 90 degree hoses to mount it as shown in the manual and parts list.

But, the results of my experiment apparently solved a problem that I had been hacking at since I put 693R on the road.

Hope this info provides some insight for those wondering about what this system does.

(I'll also check my plugs and idle mixture. Noticed that I'm getting some pinging on hard acceleration...I forget...should I retard or advance the distributor....I'm thinking retard a degree or two...yes, I'm running on high test...maybe I should try avgas...)

693R (running ok with the pcv temporarily installed)

Date: Wed September 26, 2007 5:56 PM
Subject: Update

Well...just thought I'd update on goings on at the House of Boyle...I know...been quiet since the last one, right? Doesn't mean that nothing is going on though...:)

  1. Big thing, which some caught, is I'm going to look at another mistress to add to the stable. Yeah, it's an illness. One of our list members is thinning his herd, and has a 69 for sale. Needs some body work...frame condition is unknown, and was going to be the car that the plates from 652667 were going on. Nice thing is that it's supposedly all there (so was 693, fwiw...:)), but, knowing the lister, I have no doubt that it's as represented Another project? Yeah. I kind of feel out of sorts from the 'wrenching' point of view not having major heavy lifting to do. And, the SO had so much fun driving mine last week...thinking his and hers? Now...where was that prozac....?????

  2. I plumbed in the PCV valve I had in my box o'parts after our somewhat extended discussion last week. Had to make up the bracket...not entirely satisfied with how it turned out (the original was going to be formed from 40 thou...thought I could do it in the garage, but, I needed to keep the proper bend radius and I don't have the offset bending brake tools here to do so and cracked the mount along the bend line...yes, I had the grain running the right, ended up using thin sheet stock to make the mount. Not as sturdy as I would like, and the attachment of both the valve and hoses are not up to my own standard. But, after a spirited test run, it's working well enough to get me to the field to risk my neck on Saturday, and once finished abusing student pilots, I can get into the machine shop and do the proper job.

    Photos of the install are in my website under today's date of the arrangement I came up with. The valve was mounted vertically; I tried to keep the same general arrangement.

    What I'm also going to do is also bend up some aluminum tubing to replace the lower feed from the valve to the inlet so that there is some additional stability to fix the assembly in place; may remove the rubber hose nipple from the manifold and put in a fixed fitting to pick up the metal tube. We'll see.

  3. I did notice that, on hard acceleration, I am getting some knocking. Been mucking about the KB, and, pardon my ignorance, but, is there a preferred static/idle advance angle on the 821-30 with OEM distributor/vacuum advance? I'm running an ignitor with the pertronix 40Kv coil. OEM renault wires. She idles fine...nice and smooth, it's just when you get on the loud pedal, you can hear the knocking.

    Running premium (maybe I should top off with 100 octane saturday..down to a half tank...) Exxon (hey, ex-employees with x years of service still get a break on the pump price...). Once you unload it a bit (let off on the acceleration rate..), it goes back to being its normal self. So, I know it has to do with the timing.


  4. Speedo tends to move like a VU meter once at road speed. Bounces around pretty well. I have a new cable...figure the cheapest part is the first to replace. The angle drive is fine...lubed, no play, and have, oh, 3 additional heads (4 if I make the deal for the other car this weekend...) of various mileages. Will see if replacing the cable and paying better attention to its routing (I took a swag at it when I was putting the chassis together) solves the problem. If not, will take out the head that I have, and ship it off to Nisonger for overhaul and calibration.

  5. Borrowed a camber gauge...and have 2 qts of redline GL4 90wt gear oil. Need to get up to the shop and put that in...the drain plug is leaking pretty good, so, will teflon tape it before putting it back in; from what I hear, that plug is a sore spot of leakage...and will recheck the torque on the case bolts, Just In Case.

    Secondarily, have been investigating the jensen motors work on suspension, and some dox in the golden gate site, as well; so, I'll probably be mucking around for some spare upper A arms to modify (leaving the ones I have stock...) to give me some camber adjustability range for the front, and then reset the toe. Can always go back to stock...which is why I'm going to track down a set of originals to mod.

  6. Was driving the other night, hit a couple bumps, and heard this metallic rattling coming from under the dash. Boy, did that bug me. Well, assumed the lotus position on the passenger side...turns out it was the metal hanging tag for the heater....rattling against the heater can. Nothing serious. Stuck it where it belongs...and the beast is quiet (well, not quiet, but making only the racket it should be...) again.

  7. Picked up 4 tubes of windshield urethane, black glass primer, a cold knife to remove the windshield, a couple windshield suction handles...and 2 yards of foam-backed headliner. I have enough leather to dye to re-cover the, before it starts getting cold, I'm going to pull the old glass, clean the flange, prime, and paint black...and reinstall the headliner, a-pillar trim, and the windshield with new chrome trim and corner clips. Figure I'll bring the black out of the flange a quarter of an inch or so; that way, no matter what the final color of the car is, the current color won't show under the trim if the masking is not perfect. Besides, the urethane is black, too...:)

Anyway...still working on her. Never ends, does it?

But, at least, after all is said and done, versus what I was thinking in June ( this ever going to work????), when I get something done, I get a chance to go for a drive and all know what I mean?


Thanks for listening...

BB 693R (most certainly a work in constant progress.)

Date: Thu October 04, 2007 9:22 PM
Subject: Fans and Steering wheels

Well...many steps forward, and a rework in place for an original part...

  1. Took the car out for a spirited drive last night. She's running pretty good, considering all that has been done. Still tweaking, still fussing after her, but, all in all, doing ok. knew that was coming, right?

    Came to a long light, and, the rad fan kicked on. And squealed like a stuck politician taking away his graft payments. is the original one that came with the car...and more than a few years old. No biggie...was pulling on the superslab anyway, so, I hied myself home, temps holding nice at 90...pulled into the garage and pulled the fan assembly off.

    Blades came right off (original Ducellier...), and removed the motor. Armature was rough to turn with my hand. Guess the bearings were dry.

    Not a big deal. Separated the halves, brushes looked in good shape. Cleaned the contacts with cleaner and buffed them shiny, washing them down with cleaner to get all the spooge off.

    Pushed the sintered bronze bushings out, and cleaned them up with contact cleaner. The armature surfaces were a little rough, so, I lightly polished them with crocus cloth, and cleaned the ends up with contact cleaner also.

    But, what to do with the bronze bushings? They are a good fit on the armature still, they're just dry.

    So...took out my hot plate, a small pan for the water, and one that fit in it for the oil...a double boiler set up, as you will. Same way you would melt parafin. Put a mixture of 30 wt and light solvent in the second pan, brought the water up to boil, put the second pan in the boiling water (like a double boiler...) and added the mixture and bushings to it. Let it simmer for about an hour (with the door open to the garage...and sat there and watched it (with an extinguisher by my side...). After about an hour, turned it off and let it cool naturally, then removed the bushings from the oil (most of the solvent had evaporated....). Pressed into place back in the housing...reassembled the motor, adding a little oil to the cup at the closed end and smeared some on the exposed end and tested.

    Quiet. Smooth. Reassembled the motor back into the fan shroud etc., and reinstalled.

    Nice. It works. How long? Can't predict. But, if it lasts for even a couple years...that will be ok with me.

  2. The OEM steering wheel in the car was showing signs of 38 years. Plastic was cracking on the seam. Not bad, but, considering all the work that's been done, it was on my list to do.

    So..I saw that Griots had Wheelskins, so I called them up. Obviously, the original Lotus wheel is not on their list, so, they asked me for the measurements, and said that a special order would be the same price drop shipped from Wheelskins.

    For reference, the size of our wheels is 14" diameter, 3" circumference rim for the leather wrap.

    They quoted 10 days. it showed up in 5. Took about an hour to put on carefully.

    I'll put the before and afters up on my site, but, it looks great. Makes the rim just a hair thicker, but, the quality is top rate.

    Not an endorsement of either Griot's or Wheelskins, but, it turned out quite well, so, it's worth the bandwidth to express satisfaction--what other biz would call a customer for the specs for a special order of less than 50. USD, and go that extra step for the same price as a stock item? Not many, so, while not endorsing, I am quite happy with their customer service (and product quality).

All in all...not too much accomplished this week, but, small steps forward, and a minor shuffle in reverse taken care of...

693R (my ball joints were hard to remove too, if that's any consolation...took a lot of colorful language and big hammers...)

Date: Wed October 10, 2007 6:02 PM
Subject: sunvisor repairs

We all know what happens to that wonderful polyurethane foam that Chunky bought at a surplus sale that he used for the sunvisors. It turns to dust. Mine were no different...and after most of the interior shops that I brought them to just kind of looked at me...I decided to take things into my own hands and attempt a repair of them myself.

Problem is, they were assembled with a heat seal over a metal frame and foam backing. How am I going to do that...and still retain enough of the stock look that if you all peer into my car at the next LOG it won't be the cause of too many snickers...

So...taking trusty tools in hand...this is what I did. Supplies needed:

1. Take the visor in hand. Note that there is a heat-sealed seam along all sides; what you're going to do is, with the scissors, cut carefully along the top end of the visor (the end that has the hole for the mount) and remove ONLY the heat-sealed seam on the top, leaving as much of the vinyl intact as possible.

2. Remove the steel reinforcement from the opened visor, and shake out all the decomposed original foam. Remove any that is stuck to the frame, and, if need be, clean the rust off the frame surface.

3. Lay the frame on the closed cell foam (I used the left-over stuff from the chassis..), and, with a marker, trace out along the INSIDE of the frame. What you're going to do is use the closed cell foam to close off the inside area of the wire frame. With the scissors, cut out the foam along the line you scribed.

4. Take the cover, and CAREFULLY use it to draw the outline of it on the regular foam. What you're going to do is get the general shape (minus the backbone where the visor slides onto the mount...but along the flat piece of the mount (you'll see what I mean if you look at the's a tube with two flat extensions that pick up the wire frame...) that will be about 1/4" smaller than the outside shape.

5. Taking some contact cement, apply to one side of the closed cell foam, and the proper side of the regular foam. Lay the frame flat on the bench, and put the closed cell foam inside the frame. When the cement is fired off, carefully lay the regular foam, proper orientation, so that the top edge of the foam is about 1/4 inch down from where the tube and flat strips are joined. What we're going to do is make a sandwich of foam/closed cell/foam capturing the wire, do the same to the other side.

6. When all set up, offer the frame-cum-foam sandwich into the open visor. Note where it is too big...remove and carefully trim so that it is an easy fit in the visor...not too tight, not too loose. You should have (if you opened the visor up carefully) about 1/4" of overlap if you fold the loose ends over the top of the frame.

7. When satisfied with the fit, brush on some contact cement to the frame, and one side of the vinyl. Wait to flash off, then carefully fold the first flap over and attach it to the top of the frame. Do the same for the other side, except you're going to apply the cement to the vinyl you just folded over and the underside of the second flap. Wait for the flash off, then fold the second flap over and smooth out carefully.

8. If you've made it this far, you will notice that the hole for the mount is a little off. No problem...with the scissors, just trim the opening so that the visor will fit back on the mount.

9. Satisfied? Then clean the vinyl with any reasonable solvent (be careful not to get the seam you just glued with the solvent), and spray the vinyl dye on, a few light coats.

10. Reinstall when dry. Admire your handiwork.

Total time for both took me, after I figured out how to put the foams together, was about an hour and a half.

I'll put some photos up tonight or tomorrow on my website. BB
693R (visors fixed...)

Date: Wed October 10, 2007 6:16 PM
Subject: transaxle lube other news...

Changed the tranny fluid today, swapping out the Castrol GL4 with Redline MT90. I had noticed that, as the tranny heated up with driving, the shifting would get a little notchy.

Not anymore. Spent about an hour running around the area...high speed, low speed, traffic, open road.

Up- and down-shifts area lot smoother. Most certainly the box is a bit quieter. Cross-gate movement is smoother.

Maybe it's just my perception...I was hoping that the synth gear oil would work out better. We'll see, as I put some more mileage on her.

For the record, I have aprx 1500 miles on her since august 21. Last fill up returned 38 mpg (pretty good for 5.25/gal avgas...). Been still fiddling around with it pretty much every day.

Next week, taking a week off between companies (yes, leaving Lockheed Martin and gov't contracting to get back into the real world...), so, have lined up all the stuff I need to do the headliner, a-pillars, crash pad, and reseal the windshield with new replacement chrome trim and corner clips from RD.

And with that, she'll get transfered to the be taken out on the 28th for a NY/NJ LEO drive, and then get laid up for the winter.


Date: Fri October 12, 2007 8:14 PM
Subject: windshield ou

Came out fine. It was being held in by prayers. Literally, did not even have to use a cold knife, a wire saw, wedges, or anything. The trim was holding it in...but, pulled the trim off, and the windshield did not have to be cut out.

Sat it in my basement on a number of blocks of styrofoam so I could clean out the channel of the old butyl..gently leaned it against the sheetrock wall.


Came back an hour later to clean the butyl remnants off the glass.


Sigh. Minor setback, I think. Probably wrong, though.

Anyway...doesn't mean I can't keep going, right?

Removed the visors, headliner (it came off pretty much in two pieces), with a THICK coat of factory glue on the foam. The new headliner I ordered 2 days ago came in with the headliner cement. So, to take my mind off the windshield in the basement with the big crack, I replaced the headliner. It only took about an hour or so, including cutting, trimming, etc. Need to pick up some edge molding the finish the top of the opening; still need to trim the front edge afterwards.

Hint for installing...start at the rear of the ceiling and work forward to the windshield opening.

Also pulled out the crash pad. Have the new one from RD/Banks/? to install...looks like some trimming involved...but that's to be expected.

Swapped out the VIN plate; now, all the plates (except for the chassis stamping...) match. That's a good thing, right?

Cut out a couple pieces of connoly, vinyl dyed with flat black, and installed on the A-pillars as they should be done. They look nice. The way they should; when you match up the new headliner, the cantrails, and the freshly replaced A-pillar trim, along with new door I can see the light at the end of the interior tunnel.

Well..thought I'd escape the cracked windshield syndrome. Guess not.


Oh well...

Good thing I have off next week. I did pick up 4 tubes of urethane, still trying to find the primer (no one around here seems to have it...), new trim...corner clips...and have cleaned off most of the spooge in the channel, so...forward she marches.

693R (windshield less, but with a fresh headliner...)

Date: Sun October 21, 2007 5:39 PM
Subject: Interior done

Well...put the inside all back together over the last couple days...and, while I had to attend my grandson's first birthday party this afternoon, did manage to close up some loose ends:

  1. Finally got around to picking through, over the last week, the individual pieces left from the AutoMat carpet set that I bought in August, and, with some judicious application of high-strength contact cement (left over from the headliner install...), I finished installing the carpeting, including the BIG center bulkhead piece. Put all the plastic back in place (still have to do the driver door speaker grille, not a biggie though). Couple suggestions that made it go a little easier, in retrospect:
    1. When you do the center console carpeting, especially if you are purchasing a pre-made (sewn) kit, register the kit to not only the triangular section at the rear, but, also the length from the front cross bulkhead to the center console. The two work with each other and if you don't do it right..well, you will end up with a slight gap at the front end (which I didn't, but, the preliminary location I thought would be right, if I had started from there, would have left the gap. Not that you would see it, but, if you're like me, you'd know it was there and it would bug you.
    2. When cementing up long sections, do about a third of the long length at a time. Spray/brush on the contact cement, flash off, then locate in place, smoothing out from the center of the section to the outside edges. That gets it nice and flat and smooth.
    3. Under the seats, where the 5/16" bolts go thru the channels thru the floor...under the carpet where the holes are, cut out about a 1 1/2" diameter circle in the under padding, and, on the inside, locate 2 5/16x1 1/2" fender washers under the carpet in the clearance hole you just cut in the padding. This will support the seat rails and keep them from collapsing into the carpet, which will keep them straight and allow you to move the seat forward and back.
    4. RD still has a stock of the carpet hold-down rings, studs, and snaps. I put two under the seat, between the rails, and two at the forward location as was drilled by the factory. They will keep the footwell carpet from sliding around or bunching up at the front end of the driver footwell. The unused holes for the factory studs I just pushed some gelled resin into, and will smooth out the underside later.
  2. I installed, but haven't fully installed, the universal washer pump in the nose of the car. I figure I'd plumb it in in the next week or so, and hook it up to the wiring harness. Since I don't have the sovy container for the brake master cylinder, I'm going to use the r/w wire that would have driven that circuit, as well as the push-to-test switch under the instrument panel to actuate the pump (I may also use the brake fail light, just to be sure...:)).
  3. My 2nd-next-door neighbor, who teaches body shop at the local vo-tech, provided the name of a glass shop who is willing to install the windshield and trim as per the manual (with urethane vice butyl). They will also polish out the original windshield from 693R of the scratches (the owner stopped by and took a look and commented that they were not the worst he'd ever seen...or fixed) that were all over the outside of the glass. As he said, they will be gone when they're finished.

    Total to install trim, prime channel, mount windshield, and fully polish the outside? $200. USD. I figure that's a bargain.

    So, the crated replacement windshield will be carefully placed in storage when I get it from Ray's, and, I'll go with the original Triplex, albeit polished out, for now. It's nice to have spares, you know...:) Lord knows, the crappy way that PA DOT leaves gravel all over the roads here...

  4. I will be, excepting the parts I'm saving for Dan, be placing a list up to the group as well as on Jerry's site, of useable parts I've collected over the last 7 months and have more than 2 of. I've finally reached the point where having 4 extras of many parts is about 2 too many...and, I'm sure someone's 65 may be in need of what is in my garage, basement, or yard shed. Until then...pls wait till I get the list up..:)

As always, photos of the completed interior (and the old windshield taped in place..) are at under 10-21-Interior_Finished .

693R (Started pulling the hoses away in the engine compartment to get the valve cover off so that I can check the torque of the head Steve so rightly pointed out, it couldn't hurt...:))

Date: Sat October 27, 2007 4:09 PM
Subject: Windshield In to RD's today to pick up the OEM Triplex windshield. What a day to do it...????

  1. Picked up the new glass early this morning and carried it home in the back of the van. You never realize how many bumps there on on roads until you have an expensive, rare, and hard-to-find piece of glass in your vehicle, right?
  2. Got home, and super padded the back area of the car, which makes a perfect place to work on the glass. Started by measuring the amount of urethane primer I had to mask for; I ended up using a 3/4" on the top and sides, and a 1" at the foot to mask the crash-pad to body seam. Not that it was ugly, but, I felt that it gave it a better, cleaner look. I masked by applying painters tape of the proper width following the edge, then using a 1.5" wide strip inside of that, then stripping off the outer strip of tape to give me the clear glass to prime (I cleaned it twice, btw, with heavy-duty glass cleaner before taping...). At about this point, Dan Costello stopped by to lend a hand...
  3. Opening up the bottle of primer, and pouring into a cup, I then used a sponge brush to apply 2 even coats of 3M primer to the glass and edge. This edge portion of the glass, by the way, is referred to by glass pros as the "frit". Why? Have no idea. When the second coat was on (this stuff only takes a short time to flash off), I stripped the tape, and cleaned up the tape edges where needed.
  4. Since I had spent a couple hours last night trimming the edge molding, we then moved on to applying a good bead of urethane adhesive to the channel in the plastic trim. First the bottom, then, working our way around the sides, putting the corner clips on as we went, we applied the trim to the edge of the glass and collapsed the trim tightly on to the frit, so that the urethane oozed out and attached it firmly to the windshield.
  5. Letting the sealer set up for a few minutes...we then test-fit in the opening. Little bit of jockying around...measurements, splitting differences...and got it centered in short order. I used 4 short pieces of tape perpendicular to the trim at the top and bottom to mark the place, then sliced the tape. This gives you a registration point for when you insert the windshield with the adhesive in the channel.
  6. Now comes the funky part. You have to lay down a BIG bead of adhesive all around the opening. I'm talking at least a half inch thick. And, you want to put it as close to the interior edge of the flange as possible. Lots of sealant. Trust me. It takes about 5 minutes to get it all in, and then you have about 15 minutes before it starts to set. Full strength is 18-24 hours. So, think, plan, step back, and go for it, but once you start, you're committed.
  7. Then...the good part. The two of us carefully picked up the glass from the boot where it was placed after the dry fit, and repeated our motions to get it into place. We placed it in the goo, and checked for fit. There were some areas where it was not, even with a big healthy strip of sealer, so, we carefully wedged the glass open, and I applied yet more. Placing it back in, I checked around the periphery inside, and saw it oozing from all around the glass. Good. Full contact.
  8. Using wide-handed pressure, we pressed smoothly down on the outside to make sure it was positioned well and truly in the adhesive. It is, as far as I can tell.
  9. Taking a page from a photo I saw at Lotus, I then took a couple big rolls of tape, placed them on the outside, and then tape-strapped across the front to keep pressure on the front surface into the setting.
  10. I'll wait till tomorrow to test-rain on it with the hose. But, it looks nice. If it leaks...well...I'll cross that bridge...but, if it does...I have 2 more tubes and can easily fill in under the trim and along the windshield. But, looking at the fit, it is pretty evenly oozing out all along the flange to windshield joint.

Photos in under 10-27-Windshield directory. Also a shot of the adhesive I used, the primer container, and, Dan Costello proudly showing off the rear deck to his TC that he brought over...:)

Looks nice, I trim, no scratches, OEM triplex tinted windscreen. Life is good (even if the checkbook took a BIG hit...)

Now, I just have to figure how to get the old rear view mirror button off (when you want to, they don't...when you do, you can't budge it...) and transfer it over to the new window. Maybe I'll just take the broken windshield down to the dump, take a sledge to it, and save the piece that has the button on it...:) It's not any good, anyway, right?

Either that, or stop by the local GM stealer on Monday, and buy a new mount and day/night mirror off something like a Grand Am or some such, so that when stopped at a light, the SUV in back of me isn't blinding me...:) and go with that solution.

I'd like to thank Dan for his great assistance (and he's certainly getting a Europa Education...) this afternoon; it made it a whole lot easier having four hands instead of wrestling with it myself. It would not have gone in as quickly or easily without him. Thanks, Dan.

Now...on to the leaking head and tranny. Some things never are finished...:)

693R (not windshieldless anymore...I can put my flying goggles back in my flight to my silk scarf...)

Date: Tue Oct 30, 2007 1:49 pm
Subject: Gasket Kit source

Anyway, casting about for a gasket kit for a -30 engine that I'm planning on rebuilding this winter...and the sources are few and far between.

So...a lot of folks have dealt with Geert of the R16 club over in the Netherlands; he's a good chap, and willing to deal with those of us who enjoy (?!) the feeling of French power in our Brit cars (with Italian tires and US carpets...).

He has access to complete, fresh manufacture gasket kits, which are the same for the 821 engines installed in the original cars as ours.

The cost, excluding shipping (and I added in transaxle gaskets and seals) was about 160USD, when converting from Euro to our devalued currency. Shipping was another 40USD (24 Euro). If you need them, you need them.

Shipping time was only 5 days from the Netherlands, besides, to the east coast.

FYI, current manufacturer is a subsidiary of the Dana Corporation, called Glaser Sealing Products (

  1. Part Number Kit
  2. S30750 Complete engine kit
  3. 03159 Head Gasket only
  4. 03162 Valve Cover Gasket only
  5. 03160 Oil Pan Gasket only
  6. 03324 Intake/Exhaust only

I've passed this info on to RD for his research to see if there is source for them over here.

I found Geert to be cooperative and willing to research the differences, so, if you're in the need of these items, it might be worth your while, even accounting for the exchange rate and shipping, to consider taking this tack if you're in a rebuild mode (or, just want them on the shelf In Case).

(costs to other countries is unknown, so...ymmv.)

Geert's email:

Just thought I'd throw this out for the general masses and KB (eventually).

Date: Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:04 am
Subject: 693R update....probably the final one of the season...:('s come time to finally give up the garage and move her to her hibernation, as a wrap up for this season, bear with me as I bring everyone up to date:

1. As a datapoint for the car...since re-arriving on the road in August, she's done a bit over 1600 miles of enjoyment on the roads of NJ/PA/NY (just a bit...). What a blast.

2. The yard shed formerly known as "that empty shed in the back yard" is full of the cast-offs of the rebuild...not that they're not useful, but, were baggied and part numbers scribbled on the bag. The cast iron or steel pieces were rescued, cleaned up, sprayed with a mist of oil, and put in baggies, stored in my basement...things like the extra set of hubs, stub axles, etc.

3. I've stored away the new water pump, fuel pump, gasket sets, thermostat, extra set of belts, hoses, suspension bushings...shims, seals for the tranny, etc in preparation for next year and the cross-winter projects that I'm looking forward to.

4. In the interim, with the upcoming hibernation, I decided that, before putting her to bed, it would be a propitious time to finally install the new speedo cable. Don't know why there is such aggida about doing it (unless I did something wrong...:)); took, with replacing the original speedo head (which is getting sent to Nisonger...) a little under an hour. Did it just as the manual said; the only change was to use a bit of safety wire as a pull wire to get the front thru the hole under the dash. The old cable? was broken about 4" from the rear end...which might have explained the somewhat erratic fine now, if a bit high (3850 rpm, which should give about 70 mph actually reads 75. I have a spare angle drive which I can try...but, assuming that it's a calibration problem which will be taken care of when I get the Nisonger repair back...after all, the mechanicals are somewhere between 37 and 35 years old, right?

5. Still weeping a bit of anti-freeze, but only after a longish ride. It's a head gasket. So, that's on the list for this winter in the hangar...

6. Whilst underneath stringing the speedo, made sure that I cleaned up the drips, etc. Undercarriage is clean, tidy, and ready for winter. Note...didn't wax it this time...:)

So, off to the hanagar she goes. Cover is stashed in the trunk. Interior is cleaned, floor carpets ready to come out, along with the seats...going into my basement for the interim. I'll put the battery on a tender when I get her to the field.

Oh, yeah, also changed the oil and filter. 20w50 castrol. New Fram PH3512. Half pint of Camguard per the instructions to keep the film up on the metal, and a bottle of water wetter in the antifreeze. Get the thing nice and warm on the way to the field and get the fluids all through the engine.

And then, hibernate. Sniff...:)

But, then, that leaves space in front of the SO's car to do the other things that I've got lined up...


Date: Fri Feb 22, 2008 9:35 pm
Subject: Idle hands are the Devil's workshop

So...after spending an hour shoveling out my corner lot sidewalk... traced out the vic brit high-current headlight harness they sell and draw it for the benefit of folks who are thinking of upgrading their headlights, which means that the existing wiring has to be considered.

One of the neat features is that the high-current feed for the filaments is taken off the panel switch and high/low on the stalk and that circuit is used to turn relays on and offand there's a separate fused feed direct from the fuse block (or direct from the battery...remember to put a fuse in as close to the power source as possible in case there's a short closer to the load...) that bypasses the whole dashboard/column mess of wiring.

Another nice feature, I think, is that, with the use of two relays, if one fails, you can swap the good one into the socket of the failed one (or, carry a spare...these relays are pretty much all I use, so, there are a few that are mounted that are not used right now...and are pretty ubiquitous) and it will get you home. As a matter of fact, it's the same relay I use for the alternator, radiator fan, air horns, etc.

Anyway, the page I built with the diagram is in the 693R menu on my site ( under "Mods". I think I'm going to maintain the out-of-the-resurrection mainstream upgrades here, while still maintaining my blog on Jerry's site for the final phase of 693R's resurrection...and starting a new one when the next car gets here.

Thoughts? Comments?


Date: Sat Mar 8, 2008 2:22 pm
Subject: well...continuing work

With the rising flood waters of the Delaware lapping at the next town over (Yardley), and no flights (yeah, right?), figured I'd dig into the box o'parts that have collected space in my garage and start working on freshening up stuff in preparation for the paint work.

1. Stripped both doors that I have from the original car. Window frame (no rattle strips in either of them...), quarter lights, mechanisms, motors, etc. Couple of the welds on the rattle strip mounts are broken...which is normal, I guess, as well as the spacer piece at the front of the main frame that positions it outward on the door. You know, the one that's always broken? No problem.

The rubber gaskets for the quarter light are in reasonable condition, a little shrunken, but, useable. IIRC, they are NLA, so, I'll carefully soak them in some rejuvenating oil (from and hope they are ok. When I reinstall, I'll use some of the urethane I have in the unopened tubes to close the open joints at the corners. That should be ok...I guess.

2. Found a box containing the remains of a couple handbrake handles I've accumulated. So...stripped them all down, and spent some quality time at the sandblast cabinet to clean them up. Figure will chromate them, a nice coat of semi-gloss black, and use the single good white press handle as a pattern to make up some replacements out of aluminum stock I picked up along the way. Photos are on my website ( in 693R's photo album, in the 2008 directory (I had to re-arrange the album due to some limitations in the software regarding how deep the software will dip to alphabetize the listing...).

3. Unpacked the bell housing I scored off evilbay, and removed the old, hard input shaft seal, installed a new OEM seal, and installed an NOS throwout bearing into the fork after prelubing the housing. Smooth, clean, and looks ok. On the shelf for later use....

Anyway...a quiet day.


Date: Sat Mar 15, 2008 7:35 pm
Subject: I thought this was a support group...and update on today

Hi, I'm Bryan..

(HI BRYAN!!!!)

Anyway...good day today, even if I didn't get to work on 693R, being involved with finishing up my friend Joe's aircraft interior.

1. Dropped a supply of stuff off at Ray's (now I'm supplying stuff to him..but, I'll let you look at his page to find it..:)). Picked up, seeing has he had some new stock, of the front quarter light rubbers (sadly, only the top and bottom, not the H channel...but, the ones on the car are ok, so...will use those (unless someone knows who has the quarter-to-main window frame channel...:)). Also, took advantage of his sale on side marker light bases, as well as the 3-year badge for the new bezels I picked up a couple months ago. So, the side rear badges are complete...and photos are in my 693R photo album, 2008, under today's date.

2. Got home, and dug out the stash of parts I had for the side lights left over from some car or the other along the way. Took them apart (well, the rubber just crumbled in some cases...), brought the lenses upstairs to the kitchen, and scrubbed them clean (which also got a lot of the white wax residue out from between the lettering on the faces.

3. Took everything to the workshop, and proceeded to polish the chrome frames (I have 2 extras besides what I used and what's on the car...) with a light touch of Simichrome. Got off a number of years of crud and spooge...and there's little if no pitting. Nice.

4. Proceeded to reassemble the side lights; first, put in the backing plate for the reflector, then the reflector lens itself, then the light socket (will still have to bead blast them to clean them up, but just wanted to try the assembly...), then the light lens. Then, carefully attached the chrome trim by placing it in position, lightly compressing it with my hand, and using my thumb, teased the rubber lip over the flange on the trim. Took about a minute per., and everything seated real nicely.

5. Still have to, as I said, bead blast the sockets and backing plate, but, now that everything is together, they look sweet. And, oh, new rubber, so, when I pick them up, I don't get black rubber dust all over my hands (which is a pita to wash's almost like used motor oil from a just never comes completely off.

6. Appropriated Karen's camera, and took a few shots which I dropped into the same directory as mentioned above. I'm not trying to sell anything, but, if yours are a bit worn, or they are almost NOT holding that chrome trim in (which is unobtainable, so...), I'd consider it (considering the minor $ to save a piece which is, if you can find them, going for upwards of 150. USD last I checked overseas) a worthwile investment.

7. Started trimming the quarter light rubber trim...realized that I probably should wait till I actually go to install the things so I can get the miters right at the corners. But, they do look a LOT better than the deteriorating stuff on there now.

7a. FINALLY got both original doors free of their door pins, bushings, and assorted ash and trash. FINALLY, they're just shells. So, when I cut the existing doors off 693R, I'll choose the better of each side to use for the sand-down and repaint.

8. Picked up 200 pads of 230 grit sanding disks for the orbital, as well as a trade-size box of 600 wet/dry for smoothing out the final sand-down and primer coat. I'm going to do most of the prep work myself...and just have someone do the final smoothing of the primer and color shoot, rather than the whole magilla.

9. In preparation for the arrival of another car, I rented a garage (15x25) at the airport to have a place to store/work/disassemble/? the next project without inconveniencing the One Who Must Be Obeyed. Only a C note per month (cheaper than my old tiedown for my plane...), has 40A electricity service (can anyone say compressor and blast cabinet...???), overhead lighting, and a concrete floor. Anyone need any work done...:)??? Enough room for my roll-cabinet of tools, and space for a good sized workbench and shear and brake. And, I won't have to inconvenience my friend Joe...:)

10. Speaking of Joe...arranged to drive the car to his shop in 2 weeks to r&r the head gasket. He offered, since he has all the tools and stuff there (especially to dump the fluids, and clean up afterwards...), as well as a surface plate to check the head. So, that's in the queue.

11. Whilst at rd...picked up his binder of factory service bulletins from the 1970s...and will scan them in for Jerry's site. It's not a complete set, but, I'm on the trail of, there will be gaps, but, it's a start. There's a bunch of scans ahead of them, a rescan of the TC/TCS parts manual (ray loaned a pristine manual, as in it's in a sealed bag with an OEM parts tag on it...:)) to clean up the diagrams on Jerry's (and rd's...which is a modification of the original work done last year...) site.

Just for giggles...I looked at my calendar...a week from this coming Wednesday (26 March) I took posession of 693R from the shipping company. And almost a year since this resurrection started. How time flies when you're having fun, right?

To be up-front, if it wasn't for the great folks on this list that have kept me honest, I never could have even gotten this far, let alone known how to even start. Steve, Jerry, Mike, Pete, Whit, Jay, Ed, Dan, and I'm leaving out a whole gaggle of folks who have encouraged me, not by choice, but this would go on too long...I'll throw you my keys anyday for a ride (as long as you bring her back...:))

Thanks, guys.


Date: Sun Mar 23, 2008 12:19 pm
Subject: small request

Well...being the retentive engineering type...need some help, if someone has access to either the cylinder liner hold-downs for the 821-30 engine or has built them...

Next weekend, I plan on pulling the head and regasketing to cure a small weep from the front left side. I have a complete set of gaskets (well, more than one set, one never knows, does one...??) for both the top and bottom ends, etc. I have a couple of long head bolts that I'm planning on cutting the heads off of and slotting for removal to make up the locating pins, as well as the locating tool for the rear left side (that funky looking one with the two fingers that stick up (thanks, steve...:)). Also have a Cardone rebuilt water pump (while I'm in the area, you know...) to go on...didn't like the thin paper gaskets they supplied for both the base and the rear plate, so spent a little time this morning replacing with new OEM, which are impregnated paper (out of the curty gasket kit...) rather than what Cardone used.

Anyway, don't want to take chances whilst the head is off that the liners will pop. The engine only has about 28K miles, according to the records I have, since the engine was rebuit in Miami by a couple POs ago. While I don't forsee any problems if they do (I have a set of the bottom end gaskets that I'm bringing Just In I'd just have to drop the oil pan and pull the jugs and pistons, essence, doing an in-frame rebuild (I also have a sealed set of original hepolite rings that came in the original delivery...), I'd like to gin up a set of retainers to eliminate the possibility as much as possible. I know about only loosening the center cam side bolt a couple of turns and using it as a pivot point, etc to break the seal by hammering with a soft-blow hammer to twist, etc, and the fellow (joe) who's shop I'm doing it in has experience in wet-sleeved french engines (peugeot, citroen, and some renaults...:)), so, I'll be as careful as possible...:)

I do plan on putting the tranny in neutral and disconnecting the actuating lever and blocking the wheels to imobilize the car, too. Again, Just In Case...:)

Anyway, if anyone has a set of hold-downs or a bare 821 block, could you do a favor for me and measure bolt-center to bolt-center across the head so I can drill up some bar stock to build a hold-down set?

I'm going to make a guess here based on discussions, that the bolts themselves are 11mm x 1.5 pitch; not a very common size, but, I can cut some 1/2" ID tube to length to just use 4 of my head bolts to hold the bar stock down.

Any thoughts from folks that have gone down this road before? (Yes, I'm going to check the torque before pulling the head just in case it's a case of the head not being torqued properly from the PO's overhaul...not that I think that will do anything, but....)

If anyone has any input, I'm sure everyone will benefit...:)

Thanks, all.


Date: Fri Mar 28, 2008 10:14 pm
Subject: year on, and already taking it back apart...

One year anniversary. Let's whoop it up. Roll out the barrel....

So...loaded one of my gasket kits and all the bits I've collected over the past couple weeks...into 693R...and off to Flemington Foreign start pulling the head off and regasket the thing...:) You know, took a lot of back roads up hills and down the other side on the route between princeton (beeped at the owner standing outside of the Lotus dealer in Hopewell NJ as I went past...he waved back...), sweepers left and right, decreasing radius turns, nice smooth roads...these damn thing are fun. I keep remembering that, even with all the issues you can have...when they're running and the road is out. Fingertip control, get into the groove. Feel close to what it's like when you get a smooth night, and the flight is just grooving..fellow pilots will know what I mean...:) Anyway...

1. Backed in onto the alignment rack at the shop, and chocked the tires, as well as set the handbrake. No rolling allowed for this job, even it it's in neutral, and pulled out the bolt connecting the mechanism to the lever coming out of the tranny, making doubly sure it's in neutral.

2. Started clipping tiewraps all over the place. I use a lot of them. And clip them just as wantonly. Spare the tie wraps, spoil the job...

3. Removed: engine wiring to the Alternator, distributor, water temp sensor, and pulled it back as well as the choke cable, throttle cable, E-clip for the throttle arm, pullies, belts, alternator adjusting arm, carburetor, exhaust clamp, valve cover, rocker arm assembly (lots of spooge in the oil biggie, will solvent wash out the assembly and head before reinstalling...and turn the engine over without ignition connected to preoil before starting on the flip side of this...). Punched holes in a piece of cardboard, numbered it for the cylinders, and lined up the pushrods in the sequence they were located in the head.

4. Put heater valve on high (joe mentioned, and dug out an original OEM valve the same as mine. Has no idea where he got it..but threw it in my box o'parts with a 'you may need this someday...') and removed the closure plate in the front and the aluminum plates closing off the nose from the rack area. Popped the pressure cap on the swirl tank.

5. Pulled over the BIG 5 gallon bucket, and unfastened the hose clamp for the bottom coolant hose. There's a LOT of coolant in these things as compared to a normal (HA!) car.

6. Missed one step...sigh. Forgot to check the torque before untorquing the head. Oh well, will never know whether it was right, I guess.

7. Disconnected the coolant hoses from water pump and released the drain on the side of the block to drain the block.

8. Following the instructions in the manual to the letter, released all the head bolts EXCEPT for the center one on the cam side. Loosened that just a couple turns (at the most).

9. Just for retentiveness, scribed a line on the portion of the block that is just proud of the head around the distributor boss as Yet Another Registration Mark. Can't hurt. Didn't carve it, just used a diamond scriber to give me a line.

10. Moment of truth. Couple of 5 lb dead-blow plastic-faced hammers, couple blocks of wood held longways at the front right corner and rear left. tap...tap...tap...hmmmm...nothing. Whap...Whap...Whap...head moved. WHAP...WHAT. Head turned enough to move it with your hand. Whap...whap...whap the other way. Head is free.

11. Released center bolt on cam side that was left. All bolts in order stuck thru a piece of cardboard. Picked up the tappets out of the cam galley and put them in a piece of cardboard, too. Everything numbered, everything accounted for, in order.

At this point...took 4 of the long head bolts, the lengths of pipe cut to about 4.5", a handful of 1/2" fender washers, and used them to clamp 1&2/3&4 cylinders down using the long bolts on both sides of the block, in the holes between each pair of jugs on the edge of the block. Didn't have time to get fancy this week with the cross strap, so I used the technique listed in an old remarque. There was still a little coolant in the bottom of the block; I'll drain the oil tomorrow to see if there was any displacement or leaks from the bottom seals. Have a couple sets of both the paper and the newer excelynl seals as supplied in current gasket sets.

At this point, it was time to call it a night. Didn't even turn the head over to see what horrors or good surprises await therein...just was too bushed. So...put it on the surface table to sit there till tomorrow morning. Will check the flatness tomorrow. Can't wait.

Photos in the 2008 folder of 0693R on my web site. Batteries died in the camera part way through, so didn't get some 'action' shots. It's charging now...will take more tomorrow.

Did find out that the mainfold I had gotten with the car, with multiple weld repairs, is coming apart again. Lots of cracks appearing in the welds. So, I have a spare manifold in great condition, no welds...tomorrow, on top of everything else, I'll transfer the phenolic block, gaskets, and studs over to the new old manifold, and, found a set of original PCV hoses. So, dug out the PCV valve mount, fashioned up a new gasket, and will have OEM hoses from the flame arrestor on the valve cover to the manifold with the branched feed to the air cleaner. Will have to adjust where fume feed to the air cleaner is to the side rather than the back where it was, but, all in all, considering the work, not too bad.

(Somehow it feels like deja vu all over again...starting to take the car apart on the 28th of March is getting to be a regular occurance.)

More tomorrow. Let's see what transpires in the AM. Also on tap, new water pump, belts, replacing all the bolts that were removed (the ones I took out were rusty...can't have that...and some other things..but, for now, a glass of cabernet, and off to the rack. Up with the rooster tomorrow, and back to the shop. (didn't have a car, so, Joe offered me a choice of his Beemer 7-series or a new Ridgeline to drive home...took the ridgeline...:))

Good karma appreciated...from the collective. Updates as they happen...:)

693R (in pieces again...THAT will change...:))

Date: Sat Mar 29, 2008 9:55 pm
Subject: Re: year on, and already taking it back apart...

Cam was fine. Tappets had a nice circular pattern to them, which means they are rotating in their bores. Only #1 exhaust cam lobe showed any sort of wear; not critical right now, but, is going to send me looking just in case, you understand. Only reinforces the need to use a good oil with enough ZDDP in it to protect the boundary layer lubrication areas, as well as having a good additive package that prevents rush and corrosion formation.

No rust on any of the lobes that I could see. One of the pushrods was not perfectly straight on rolling it across the surface table. Can't even see it looking at it, but you could notice it on the surface table. Will swap it out; have a couple casting about, but was able to reset all the clearances ok, so, another day.

Looks like the head had been trued at some point; putting it on a surface table, it was dead nuts flat. Tried it in a few locations, and rotated it around, and the same distortion of the surface that would let me get my thinnest feeler in under it (and the thinnest was WAY thinner that even the minimum distortion range.

I cleaned up all the surfaces with paint remover, Joe took over and buffed both the head and the top of the block and cylinders to almost a mirror finish. Talk about surgical clean, right? Well...(wish I had photos...sigh...I hate digital cameras...give me 35mm anytime...don't ask...) I mean it. Spit shine clean.

Replaced the water pump with a fresh Cardone overhaul. New impreg gaskets to replace the paper ones they supply (I seem to be lousy with water pump gasket sets...). New bolts, washers, the whole 9 yards.

In examining the top of the block using the tool I won from a lister, found the jugs were proud right in the middle of the allowable range. Drained some oil from the pan to see if the liners had popped (doubt it, since they were tightened down very nicely last night....). Nothing. Just oil.

Valves looked ok...didn't pop the collets and examine the seats, didn't think there was a reason to after only 28K miles since the last overhaul according to my records.

Also found that the bushing that was supposed to be in the top of the block on the cam side was not in the head or the block. Hmmmm.... So, made one out of thin wall brass tube, .8" OD, 11.5mm ID. 12mm deep (total depth of the easement in the head and block not including the gasket...) Tapped it in. Is it "C"? If they're going to pull the engine apart, they'll find it (as well as 1800 of my closest Europanauts knowing...). But, it Does The Job. And that's the important thing (as well has having access to a shop lathe to cut the piece...there is that, right?)

So, nothing else to do but set the locating dowel I made earlier in the front passenger side bolt hole, placed steve's repop finger gauge in its fitting, aligned it as per the manual, and set the gaskets in place.

Dropped the head on. Between the locating pin, the bushing, and the finger gauge, everything lined up properly first time. Dropped the distributor in, went right down all the way smoothly without any forcing or jiggling. And, the head was aligned perfectly with the scribe mark I made around the distributor mount last night.

So...three bolts (lightly oiled threads) in place and lightly tightened them down. Removed the locating pin and completed installing the head bolts. First torque to 30 ft lbs with a beam torque wrench (not a break-back). Nice and smooth. Second torque to 55 ft lbs, again, per the order in the manual. Nice and smooth.

Installed the rocker arm rack. Hm....the center stud hole is stripped.'s not an oil feed, out comes the helicoil kit...carefully drill it clear (with a vacuum there to suck up the swarf as it's being drilled...tap out with the helicoil tap, and insert the coil. Nice. It takes the stud and the 20 ft lbs torque for the rack bolts. (put the pushrods back in at the same time, btw...). Lifted one side, reconnected the shift mechanism, put in 4th, and adjusted the valves to spec.

You want I should continue? Pretty much went back together just as it came apart. Only problem I ran into was that the valve cover gasket needed to be replaced (it was new last year, but...since I had a new one...) since it was weeping a bit when we got it all together. So...

Got the whole shooting match back together, closed all the coolant taps except the radiator tap, and water pump bleed valve, and filled it with Global Gold Antifreeze and a bottle of water wetter. Kept filling it till it was running clear out of the radiator, the water pump, and the swirl pot was about half full.

Hooked everything up...except the throttle cable...and fired her up. 3rd blade (almost...joe, whose shop we were working in, is a pilot, too...). Nice, and no more tap tap tap tap....Let it run till the rad fan came on, cracked the bleed valves again just to make sure, and let it cool down for 50 minutes.

Valve cover off again. Torque wrench out. Torque to 60 ft lbs. Smooth. New gasket in place, put the rest of the engine anciliaries back in. Wrench to every bolt, to check that everything was tight. Missed one...the bolt for the alternator adjusting it's tight...and checked all the hose clamps one last time.

Guess what? It runs. Runs well. Temps steady at 90 degrees, Oil pressure at 40 or so. Charging about a half needle positive. No weeping antifreeze (you could see where it was leaking based on looking at the old gasket...right where I thought it was, front driver side), just a little (about 2 drops worth of oil still leaking from the valve cover gasket...just tightened it down a little more when I got home...fwiw, you can use a 22mm 6-point socket on those funky VC nuts.

Car is resting in my driveway right now. Van is still at the airport. Seeing as I get the garage back on April 1...figure I'll just have to keep it here with me, and go pick the van up tomorrow...:)

Besides, I still have to sawzall the doors off and install the stainless pin kit, rebuild the window frames (or just swap them out with the rebuilt ones I already have...) and put in the new rubber gaskets for the quarter windows....finish installing the radio/CD player, and start getting things ready to be soda blasted in a month or so.

Spring is here. 693R is running. The project continues.

Oh, yeah. 3 hrs last night. Started at 8:30 this morning. Finished (ie driving out the garage on my way home) at 3:30PM. YMMV. I had some expert help. But, I'd add a couple hours if you all wanted to attempt it. Advice? Follow the manual. Clean everything. Don't reuse old gaskets. Use new fasteners. Take your time, and if you have any questions, Read The Manual.

(and for all those who provided input, advice, or guidance on the list, you all are the best!)

693R (back in the saddle...again...)

Date: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:55 pm
Subject: Adventures in Helicoiling

I'll cut to the chase: All of the suspension mounting holes on the transaxle in 693R were repaired, permanently (or as permanent as anything is on a Lotus...) last evening. Cost me a dinner at a real fine Italian restaurant afterwards...but, small price to pay (and Joe had to be forcibly NOT be allowed to pay for dinner...:)) for some yeoman's work and guidance.

How they got there is a story of upheaval, oops...wrong story....:)

Anyway, after a leisurly drive on the backroads between Lawrenceville and Flemington, through some very pretty scenery, we dug into fixing the one stripped hole, and continuing the process (while there, in other the remaining mount bushings.

1. Backed the car onto the lift and set the brake. Chocked the tires.

2. Propped the boot open all the way, and removed the trunk box.

3. Whilst waiting for the manifold to cool down, removed the muffler.

4. Then, in order, started to loosen and remove all of the bolts that held the rear suspension UP in the car. In doing so, noted that there is a lot of tension on the individual components. This gave both Joe and myself some pause. I know it went together easily and didn't have any force on the parts when I did the work last July/August. Why the heck is everything so tight now? I busied myself with removing the downpipe from the manifold (to get ID and OD measurements so I can fit the new Stebro sometime in the next month...) and clean it up a bit...

So...scratching our heads...since it was the alignment lift, it has the jacks to lift the front of the car for the alignment process, so, we shimmed the jack up under the rear hoop, and lifted the rear. Unlocked the locks for the lower link heim joints, loosened them up, removed the road wheels, top shock bolts, and drove out the #8 bolts at the inboard side of the lower links (since we had to drop the bracket to repair the holes. No tension, and everything moved easily.

5. Keeping track of the washer pack and cone spacers (which were a subject of multitudinous posts last year...), the lower links dropped down and out of the way.

6. To get the bracket off, there are 2 #5s through the lower case. We removed these as well as their washers and nylocs. The rearward one is a close fit, so, I used a thin-wall socket to get a good grip on the bolt head.

7. Took a look at all 3 holes (2 on the driver (left) side, and one on the right). The one I was worried about was truly buggered (lower left); the other 2 were showing signs of starting, after 37+ years since their original manufacture, of deteriorating, as I kind of figured they would.

8. So...the M8x1.25 helicoil kit calls for a 21/64" drill size for the coil size tap. Pulling out the depth gauge, I set a bit stopper for 1/8" less on the drill bit, and proceeded to drill out the holes to accept the tap. No problems, air drill set for medium speed, nice and easy to the stop. Blew out the chips with the air gun.

9. Assembling the helicoil tap onto a handle, proceeded to tap all three holes to the proper 12.5mm depth (using M8x1.25 x 12mm coils.).

10. Put the three coils into place, sunk a half turn in below the outside face. Snapped the tab at the end off, and removed the tab with a spot of grease on the end of a xcelite greenie screwdriver.

11. Now...on to reassembly. All new bolts, flat washers, lock washers for the mount to the transaxle; the original nylocs were ok for the lower links. All assembled tight, but not torqued. Wheels and nave plates back in place.

12. Lowered the car off the jack onto its wheels. Rolled forward and back out the garage (with the downpipe on and muffler off...I'm sure the neighbors appreciated THAT at 8PM...) to set the rear suspension, then back on the lift, and up in the air (it was on its wheels). 150 lbs in the driver seat, 150 in the passenger seat (bags of spedi- dri...). Torqued to spec (60 ft/lbs for the #8s, 55 for the top shock bolts, 20 for the thru-tranny-flange #5s...).

13. Pulled out the camber gauge, set rear camber for -.5 degrees.

14. Inspected the admittedly beatup muffler. The inlet tube was, how shall I say, cracking where it entered the muffler can. to the bead blaster to clean up the metal while Joe pulled out the brazing equipment. Mounted in the BIG vice (i'd hate to lift this has to have jaws about 8" wide and an 18" travel...:)), and braized the joint with a nice bead to repair (for now...).

15. Let it cool, and hogged out the mounting holes on the bracked to ensure that there was NO interference with the bolts on the transaxle. Checked the security of the downpipe clamp on the mainfold while it was cooling off and tightened down the new stainless #5s and lock nuts tight.

16. Remount was the reverse of disassembly...:) Tightened up the mount bolts (there's a spacer for the top one...since the bottom of the mount is outside of the lower link bracket...), again, new hardware.

17. Put rear screen back in (it had been removed to pull the muffler out...) and the license plate...and started to check for exhaust leaks. Nada. With the cracks braized shut, it's even a lot quieter. I can hear my stereo now...:) Still needs to be up a bit, though.

18. One last look around underneath...rolled her out the door, and waited for Joe to lock his shop up. Off to a dinner of some real topshelf chicken marsala and a glass of cabernet...

There's 3 photos in 693R photo section under 04-09-08. Only 3. Was up to my elbows in spooge, since I did most of the heavy lifting. Needed to get the technique down so that future repairs aren't an imposition on friends. Self-sufficiency is a good thing.

Drove in this morning...and life is good. Muffler is quiet for now (I know the Stebro will be a bit more 'obvious'); and I'm a bit more confident that the rear suspension will be at the end of the journey where it was when I started.

Life with a Lotus goes on, right? As I'm fond of saying, a good Lotus day...:)

View All Photos